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I turned the key & my $$$ flashed before my eyes.......!!!!!

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by kerrywittig, Apr 22, 2010.

  1. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3
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    2 wires, red with a green trace and violet with a white trace
     
  2. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    #227 kerrywittig, Jul 5, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2013
    Got it!! Thanks Tim...........

    Now a new question........

    I have a small problem, in fact a very small problem, but one that could get very large and messy.

    I found an oil leak on the very front, bottom corner, of the drivers side cam cover. It doesn't drip drip drip...it weeps. Very small but I see the results as the oil builds on the cover and eventually drips to the frame rail.... About a dime size spot if the engine has gotten to temperature and then left to cool for 24 hours.

    Is there any "easy" fix? Will the cycling of the engine temperature eventually, possibly, expand and contract that gasket seam and stop the weeping or is it probably an issue that will get worse....can anybody out there peer into their crystal ball and give me good news :).


    OR....do I just bite the bullet and dismantle the periphirals surrounding (the worst area) of that camshaft cover, remove the cover and re-seal the tiny seam that I know exsists there? I did, apply some "extra" sealant to these areas, but I must have either not been liberal enough or there is some contamination.

    UPDATE: Search feature on this forum is what I should have used first!! Got some insight and incentive here.....

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/329962-temporary-valve-cover-oil-leak-repair.html

    Looking for a plug Me
     
  3. qwazipsycho

    qwazipsycho Formula 3

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    If it's on the front of the engine there are 3 possible areas that area leaking, the cam seal, the valve cover gasket, or the oil return line fitting on the bottom of the valve cover. Do you know which one it is?
     
  4. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    Looks like I have or just by cycleing the engine temperature has cured the leak!! I re-tightened all the fasteners/nuts, & bolts in that area and for now there is no more weeping of oil. I paid very close attention to those areas when reassembling as far as sealant and cleanliness....so good so far. I did in fact grab some paint thinner and a spray bottle to clean the area, along with getting a can (like cheeze-whiz) of silicon made by Sprayon, PN S0001000 to do a similar sealing excersise as described in an earlier thread that solved the issue.....but no leak present at this time!!

    Here is my next "problem"..........

    Looking for a black plastic door lock knob/stem. Somehow I am missing one! No idea why (unless I removed it when working on the inner the door in the past 3 years and put it somewhere where I would NEVER forget it) it would have dissappeared. If ya got one I'll buy it...

    Well next week the rear bumper returns from the paint shop to be installed. Also reinstall the rear hood and access panels behind the rear window (leaving them off to help make the AC install and service easier). I have a few rear tail light receptacles to replace and/or repair, then trailer the TR to have the alignment (especially the rear) done, tires and wheels re-load balanced and the AC system vaccum tested/cleaned/new compressor. dryer & belt installed/system charged...............and then be ready to point it down the road!!

    Thanks to all for your insights and recommendations........I hope they will suffice for a few years, but I expect there will be more quirks to deal with. I also now plan to get the mirror heaters installed, the front suspension updated and as new. Install all LED ighting inside and out, rap the car with a matte finish and matte wheels, get the GC kit in place, and finally get the car to an F car dealer to have the seat belts updated.....yeah dream on.......but for now just drive the Hell out of it!

    Keep spending $'s Me
     
  5. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    #230 kerrywittig, Jul 6, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Looks like I have or just by cycling the engine temperature, it has cured the leak!! I re-tightened all the fasteners/nuts, & bolts in that area and for now there is no more weeping of oil. I paid very close attention to those areas when reassembling as far as sealant and cleanliness....so good so far. I did in fact grab some paint thinner and a spray bottle to clean the area, along with getting a can (like cheeze-whiz) of silicon made by Sprayon, PN S0001000 to do a similar sealing excersise as described in an earlier thread that solved the issue.....but no leak present at this time!!

    Here is my next "problem"..........

    Looking for a black plastic door lock knob/stem. Somehow I am missing one! No idea why (unless I removed it when working on the inner the door in the past 3 years and put it somewhere where I would NEVER forget it) it would have dissappeared. If ya got one I'll buy it...

    Well next week the rear bumper returns from the paint shop to be installed. Also reinstall the rear hood and access panels behind the rear window (leaving them off to help make the AC install and service easier). I have a few rear tail light receptacles to replace and/or repair, then trailer the TR to have the alignment (especially the rear) done, tires and wheels re-load balanced and the AC system vaccum tested/cleaned/new compressor, dryer & belt installed/system charged...............and then be ready to point it down the road!!

    Thanks to all for your insights and recommendations........I hope they will suffice for a few years, but I expect there will be more quirks to deal with. I also now plan to get the mirror heaters installed, the front suspension updated and as new. Install all LED ighting inside and out, rap the car with a matte finish and matte wheels, get the GC kit in place, and finally get the car to an F car dealer to have the seat belts updated.....yeah dream on.......but for now, just drive the Hell out of it!

    Keep spending $'s Me
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  6. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    New question:

    What are the circumstances needed to get power to show up at the single wire which plugs into the AC compressor?

    Is there a certain button, knob or switch that needs to be in a certain position?

    Tryin' to chill Me
     
  7. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    Still no answers to my questions/requests I see...................but why should I care.....I got a chance to put 30 miles on the odometer today! 3 years it's been without a drive.......amazing....I have my "real'" smile back!!

    :) Me
     
  8. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    The strict "user" answer is:

    1. key "on"

    2. push any of the three (not STOP) pushbuttons (the cabin fan blower should run), and

    3. have the temperature knob set to a temp cooler than ambient.

    But a lot of things under the covers have to be working:

    4. the high/low pressure switch on the dryer has to be closed (i.e., there needs to be the correct amount of refrigerant in the system),

    5. the relay (lower case) c (at the AC unit) has to be working,

    6. the AC ECU has to be working, and all the sensor input signals to the AC ECU need to be correct.

    (If the cabin fan blower is working when you do 1-2-3) Measure the voltage on the CN (orange-black) wire at the high/low pressure switch relative to ground = should be +12V when conditions 1, 2, and 3 are met:

    A. If it isn't +12V = trouble under the covers.

    B. If it is +12V (but no +12V at the AC clutch in the engine bay), measure the voltage on the VM (green-brown) wire at the high/low pressure switch = should be +12V. If it isn't, either no refrigerant or bad high/low pressure switch.

    C. If the VM wire is at +12V, but no +12V at the AC clutch = wiring or connector problem.

    Try chewing on some of that, and report where things go "bad"...
     
  9. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    LOL....Thanks Steve, I will follow your guide lines and report back.

    But.....

    I now know that the AC needs to be installed (compressor and dryer) in order to get the compressor clutch to respond/activate. I am having the entire system pressure checked, cleaned, a new compressor and dryer and o-rings installed and then the system charged on Monday. I thought I would be able to check and see if all wiring was well before handing over the car to my AC guy.

    That's cool (no pun intended) to find out the right way to check out the AC system if not operating. Thanks for the instructions. Hopefully all will be well and I will have no need for the step by step....but others might.

    Overall the car is running excellent. It needs the idle adjusted and a full inspection of all I assembled to make sure that all is tight and that nothing during reassembly was over looked.

    I get the bumper back in place this weekend and after the AC gets sorted on Monday I will re-install the 2 access panels behind the rear window and get the engine cover back in place....Even though it's been fun driving the TR with the engine fully exposed!!

    For all to see Me
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    If you want to do this on an "empty" system, use a jumper wire to connect the CN wire to the VM wire at the high/low pressure switch (simulating a closed high/low pressure switch).
     
  11. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    Mel -- please start a new thread (I'll have a look at your user-hateful 512TR schematic this PM, and comment if I find something)...
     
  12. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    Question....

    Is the effeciency of the cooling system of the engine compromised when the access panels behind the rear window and the hood are not in place when the car is driven?

    Why I ask?

    One thing that this car has always been is a cool runner. Very rarely did the temperature ever get above 195* unless in traffic and on a 90*+ day and then as soon as the fans kicked in.....you could see the temperature drop immediately.

    Now...

    With the engine having been gone through and running absolutely amazing the car doesn't cool down. it stays in the 200*-205* area, in 83* weather, both fans pumping away constantly and being driven very lightly. Coolant level is correct, cooling system is clean clean clean, fans spinning away.

    The only change at this point are those panels and the rear hood not on the car!! Could it be that the air movement is being comprimised by the missing body panels?

    Hot Me
     
  13. Finitele

    Finitele Formula 3

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    You may have a bubble in the system

     
  14. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    I just hope Kerry found the problem since then...;)
     
  15. MS250

    MS250 Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Has he ever posted since ?

    Does he still have the car , is it on the road again?
     
  16. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    Yes, yes and yes...

    Affirmative Me
     
  17. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran
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    Cool, thanks for the answer! ;)
     
  18. MS250

    MS250 Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Great to hear !

    Congratulations !
     

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