Ignition Wire Problems Part 3 | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Ignition Wire Problems Part 3

Discussion in '348/355' started by Loser, Apr 10, 2015.

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  1. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 14, 2011
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    Tim Dee
    #26 SoCal1, Apr 12, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Yes I dont run the covers at all, I mean it don't rain here much

    Those spacers would be great, put me down for a set if your making them
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  2. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Tom
    #27 Loser, Apr 12, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I just replaced all of the mag wound wires with copper core wires and reinstalled them. Thanks to gobble's photo above, I was able to route them as I think they are supposed to be routed. I spent a while making sure that everything seemed to fit well and wouldn't be compressed once I reinstalled the cover.

    I then took the car for a drive for about an hour without the covers installed and it seems to be running well. I am going to wait until dark, then check for any arcing. More soon...

    - Tom
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  3. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    After dark, I started the car and let it warm up. It sounded like it was missing out randomly again. I looked at the ignition wires in the dark and sure enough, there were sparks all along them jumping around randomly between the wires and the valve covers as well as from wire to wire in the area between the engine and the coils.
     
  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
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    Mitchell Le
    It is unlikely to have so many wires go bad. I would start looking at your coils next.
     
  5. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Tom
    I measured the resistance on the coils and it looked alright. Can the coils be bad, but the resistance still be in spec? It looks like they are about $50 each at the auto parts store, so it's not ridiculously expensive to replace them.
     
  6. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Yes, it is possible. to measure the DC resistance, get a reading to be good, and it is bad in use. The DC resistance is only one spec to measure, and at a frequency that is ... not used in practice.
     
  7. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Tom
    I just ordered two new coil packs, Bosch 0221503407, from Amazon. I should have them in a couple days.
     
  8. hjp

    hjp Formula Junior

    Feb 23, 2013
    591
    Kansas City, Mo.
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    Jerry Peterson
    Sparking between the wires and the wires and valve covers (read ground) means one of two things, either the dialectric strength of the wires is inadequate for the voltages or the coils are overvolting. If the wires meet the OEM dialectric spec, check your coils. Can't imagine what else it could be.
     
  9. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
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    I don't claim to be an expert on 355's, but I wonder if perhaps your engine isn't grounded properly to the frame. For experimentation, you might want to just run a jumper wire or cable from a bare metal spot on the engine to a good solid grounding spot on the frame, and see if that makes a difference. It would only take a couple of minutes....
     
  10. Brewman

    Brewman Formula Junior

    Apr 3, 2012
    417
    NC Mountains @ Boone
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    Joe
    +1 on the ground.
     
  11. Rice-Racer

    Rice-Racer Formula Junior

    Jan 10, 2015
    252
    My initial thoughts as well
     
  12. vracer

    vracer Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2014
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    Richard
    That one's simple enough that we should have an answer tonite.
     
  13. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Tom
    I measured the resistance from the block to the frame before and read about 0.5 Ohms, but it has been a while. I have to go to a little league game, but I'll try measuring it again when I get back later tonight.
     
  14. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
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    The 355 M5.2 parts diagram on Ricambi's site (table 53, item 63) shows a fairly short, braided cable that APPEARS to be located in the vicinity of the alternator, and SHOULD securely ground the electrical system on the subframe. If this cable is present, and tightly connected on each end, then the engine should be satisfactorily grounded, and NOT the source of your problem. I see that you had alternator issues in the past, is it possible that this cable was left off, or loose? It would be interesting to know if your resistance reading changes as the engine warms up.
     
  15. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    Poor ground doesn't make a lot of sense. The plugs are grounded to the block. The valve covers are grounded to the block. Same ground path.
     
  16. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    The cable is definitely there, but I will also measure the resistance between the block and the alternator housing.
     
  17. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Yeah, I think poor grounding of the block would work towards inhibiting sparks rather than causing them to spark early in the cables.

    I would suspect the Kingsborne wires, but many others are using the wires with no issues.
     
  18. INTMD8

    INTMD8 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 10, 2007
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    This is all very odd. I may have missed it but are you sure none of your current wires are damaged/nicked anywhere? (from being previously squished?) I see what appears to be tape around one of the plug boots as well.
     
  19. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    The wires are all from a new 25' spool of copper core wire. The plug has a small split in it from when I tried to remove it so I covered it with the tape. This is not the only location of the sparking though. It is along all wires even up to the coil.
     
  20. INTMD8

    INTMD8 F1 Veteran
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    Any pics of your end terminations?
     
  21. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

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    #46 Loser, Apr 15, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here is a photo of the connector on the wire and the boot that it plugs into (this is the mag wound wire since the copper core wires are in the car and it was easier to photograph this one). There is a post inside the boot that the connector snaps onto.

    - Tom
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  22. INTMD8

    INTMD8 F1 Veteran
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    I can't tell from the pic but the conductor is folded over behind the crimped terminal?

    Also, do you mark the wires for depth or can you hear them click onto the post inside of the boot?

    Seems basic I know, just want to confirm.
     
  23. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    The wire routes straight into the crimp on the terminal. The terminal clicks into place when you push it into the boot. It is a pretty good connection because it is difficult to pull the wire back out. Sometimes the terminal will break loose from the cable if you try to remove it from the boot.
     
  24. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    I hate to bring this up again, but it's still sounding like corona discharge.
     
  25. ZOOOOMZ

    ZOOOOMZ Karting

    Aug 14, 2013
    249
    Austin, Texas, USA
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    Tim Cronin
    Maybe this is a longshot, but it seems you're at a point where even longshots are worth considering: could your wires be contaminated with something that's compromising their insulation properties? For example, if you've handled them with hands that were contaminated, you could have transferred carbon-, or even metallic-contamination to the jackets of the wires? I've done this inadvertently before, when my greasy/oily hands transferred 'fingerprints' containing conductive contaminants (even dust) to the surface of the insulator, making it somewhat conductive. If your wires have black or dark insulation, you might not be able to see the contamination, even if it's sufficient to support the arcing or corona discharge you're seeing.... anyway, maybe a longshot, but cleaning the wires well might make a difference...
     

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