Im baffled about no spark!! All new parts and nothing!!!!

Jon

Firstly I would connect up the Alternator, not sure it's connected but you need to do things in a process of elimination from where it did work. Your problems do sound like those that one of the UK guys had and i helped by swapping my ECI with him ,his in my car caused the car to fire on about 2 or 3 cylinders on one bank, his car ran perfectly with my ECU so an ECU fault, he sourced a used one and all was OK. Have you tried cleaning the contacts on the 2 plugs that join the Engine to car loom? on a 328 they are just above the left hand suspension point

 

Here's what I (and others) do for our 'dubs (VW): Dark environment like what you did. Start engine, open hood, look for sparks. If none, take a water mister (mist, NOT stream!) and mist around the plugs, wires, and dizzy (distributor). Look for sparks. It's also recommended to put a load on the engine, like turn on the A/C, fan, headlights (cover them so as to not disturb the darkness needed for checking).

If you see sparks then you need to replace the plug wires. It indicates there's too much resistance in the wires so the electricity is finding the path of least resistance It could indicate that there are cracks in the insulation, too.

If that doesn't solve the problem then you need to look to your plugs. Check their condition and plug gap. Adjust or replace as necessary.

Clean your block as best you can where the plugs are as well as on the dizzy cap. The dust can collect water vapor/condensate and provide an alternate path for the electricity to discharge to i.e., the chassis/ground

If you have spark plug wires then it doesn't matter if you are using a '60s coil or a modern coil-pack.

 

The resistance test is really sort of a one-way test -- i.e, a "bad" value is bad, but a "good" value really doesn't check that it is truly working correctly (although trying that second ECU and having a new TDC sensor, but getting the same trouble, does rule out a lot of other possible reasons) -- have you tried measuring the functional AC voltage outputs of the TDC and RPM sensor while cranking the (non-starting) engine?

 

An oscilloscope would be the ideal instrument, but you can also just use a multimeter set to measure AC volts -- the TDC sensor output should be something like ~0.2 VAC and the RPM sensor output should be ~2 VAC (0 VAC on either while cranking would be "bad").

Definitely not a bad thing that you have a new TDC sensor installed (and your trying another ECU and getting the same poor result is a good sign for your ECU IMO), but you need "good" outputs from both the TDC sensor and the RPM sensor for the MicroPlex ignition to work.

Don't follow your concern here. The visual reference marks on the flywheel rim have nothing to do with the ignition operation -- the TDC sensor detects metal features in the flywheel and the RPM sensor detects the ring gear teeth passing by.

Pin 11 on the MicroPlex ECU is the main ground for the ignition system -- follow this wire if you can an see if it is conected to a reliable/clean ground. (Pin 17 is also a ground, but I believe this is only used to select the US ignition map).
No (continuous) ground on the coils -- one terminal should always be +12V and the other terminal is (intermittently) grounded by the power module to fire the coil.

 

I am not a Ferrari Fuel Injection expert by any means but if u've been trying to start for some time with no spark I would guess the plugs may be gas fouled. I would clean plugs or replace & if I was really lazy as I did with a Nissan just pull the fuel pump fuse so as to not put any more fuel into it and crank away with throttle held open.
just my .02
Bill
good luck

 

I may have missed it, but can you describe how the failure started? Did you do anything or did it just run fine then stop.
I have had trouble with the connectors between the module and the harness. You may want to move them around while you are cranking?

A timing light is a good way to check for spark. Another way that I have not tried is with those in-line testers at Harbor Freight (about $3)... you might want to try one in on each bank during your testing?

To me it sounds like it could be a primary voltage fault I would try to hook a test light in the connector to make sure the modules are getting voltage all of the while.

The 328 has a diagnostic plug where you can get some low-voltage ignition data. I have a diagram for the 328, not sure if the Mondial is the same or not. If it would help, I could post the diagram.

Good Luck,

Mark
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Jon, for purposes of investigating what's going on and causing the zero compression it might be worth just taking off the rear head with the engine in the car..

Are you sure the rear bank timing belt is in place? Normally you'd hear some damaged parts in the rear bank valve train if the belt had broken and caused valves to bump pistons and it's all banging around as the camshaft rotates as you're cranking it. Whereas if the belt broke (as opposed to skipping some teeth) and the valves bent then you might not hear a lot of banging around as you're cranking.

If the pistons aren't banged up then you might be able to do a nice valve job on the rear bank and get her back up and running.

In any case, I think you've definitely found why she's not firing right now!

 

Man, that IS a bummer of a news flash............keep investigating...take it slow...

*DEEEEEP breath*

"It's just a machine......it's just a machine......it's just a machine....."

 

Jon, sounds like a good plan. An engine out service with rebuild to both heads will get her right in the end.

As to pulling the engine, yes, you've got it - the engine/transaxle/rear suspension all comes out together. It's not that bad to remove I think...some electrics to disconnect, shift linkage, fuel lines, etc. However, the biggie is you need a proper way to drop the whole assembly without it crashing onto the floor - and you need to get the car pretty high up in the air. A two post lift with a cradle for the whole assembly is the way to go. In other words, disconnect the various connections, get the car up on the two post, slide under the cradle (wheeled, preferably), lower the car down so the weight of the assembly is on the cradle, unbolt the sub-assembly and then lift the car up and away from the whole thing. It's definitely not a job for a little rolling floor jack and a couple of Kragen jack stands......

 

Jon,

If you do drop the engine, please take and post lots of pictures of the entire process. I have an 87 Mondi 3.2 and may need some day to do the exact same thing some day. Not sure though I would try it myself at this point. Good luck!