Too big. I just mocked it up in cardboard. It hardly fits between the dash and the console. It also hangs so far down into the footwell that there's no room for feet. How about this one. http://www.vintageair.com/cat2007/21.pdf It's 18.5" x 8.5" x 7"
Do you guys think a vintage air system could be plumbed into where the heater cores are mounted? You'd have dual a/c that way. H
I didn't see them but the 1000 unit looks interesting. I bet vintage air would work with someone to do an installation or to come up with a unit that could be adapted. Is there anyone willing to try???????????????
Thatmight be a problem as the heater cores drag outside air in through the front.You would have to remove the cores then have custom evaporators made to fit,then have the return side of the hose that sucks air from outside re configured to suck air from inside the cabin.Besides all the complications the limited space issue would probably prohibit you.If you want to upgrade the A/C then it should be running R12,update the compressor to a Sanden which from memory is an 8 stage versus the stock 2 stage York,Find the biggest condnesr that will fit with upgraded condenser fans as well.Also make sure that the evaporator fan is getting the most current to it.On my GT4 I rewired the fan so that it has only 1 speed(high) through a relay with direct power from the battery through a fused line.Now the switch switches the relay and the fan gets the most possible power.I tested this before and after using a Anemometer at the vent and from memory got a 10% increses in fan speed
Southern California may be a great spot for 134 but the deep south isn't. Down here 134 feels like the heater isn't full closed.
I 2nd the feeling Dam hot in Western Australia R134...............Spent 30 thousand million dollors on mine and still, wait 1-2 weeks max and it goes from not really cool to I think the heater is still on..................we live in hope.Tony
Here is an update on my efforts: 1) Looks like a drop in replacement condenser with proper mounts for electric pusher fans will not be a problem. 2) Received a leadtime of 12 weeks for the high CFM blowers. 3) Finally found a possible lead to make the replacement evaporators (countless hours spend on this, I was beginning to think finding a cure for cancer would be easier). I should hear back next week. Plan on incorporating either an electric expansion valve or an aluminum block style expansion valve (with integral sensing bulb). 4) Sourced info about an electric expansion valve, sensors, and controller. Next I will investigate: 1) compressor options (variable capacity swash plate versus fixed capacity swash plate versus scroll type). 2) variable speed controller for blower 3) improved thermostat (possibly digital) 4) proper compressor mounting bracket More to come.....
Are the blowers (and the lead time) from SPAL? Or did you source them from another party? Thanks, Phil
Fixed my A/C problem yesterday. Found a leak at the Schrader valve on the drier. Tightened it down, put a metal cap on it (previous was plastic!), recharged with good 'ol R12 and now she blows cold again! (Remember, I have the Sanden rotary compressor) With the recent cooling off here in Houston, driving my 308 is once more tolerable! Still though, I eagerly await some braniac's solution to more VOLUME of air in the 308 cabin. Mine blows ~50 degrees F, just need more air volume in the cabin! Greg
I hope you've figured out a way to add more and larger vents. Without them, I think you're wasting your time! I hope I'm wrong.
There's nothing wrong with a plastic cap on the valve. The caps are only meant to keep crap out of the top of the Schrader valve, not to seal refrigerant in the system. Same thing with car wheels. That said, there's nothing wrong with putting a metal cap on it. >>>
It will probably never break but even if it did a small blast of air into the top of the valve will remove any dirt.
Rob, This may have already been mentioned, but the 328's A/C in-cabin blower motor switch is variable speed. The wiring is given pretty clearly in the wiring manual, involving various relays since this switch must be on in order for the A/C compressor clutch to engage. I wonder if this is a drop-in replacement for the three-speed 308 switch? I wonder if it operates on the same principle / wiring structure?
i made a new 4 port outlet plate and replaced the stock plate on the evaporator box. also added a vent on the passenger side and replaced the two center vents with larger, les restrictive vents. also placed a vent on the driver side, as far to the left as i could. the a/c went from being useless to usable, but not great. i recently purchased a complete evaporator/blower unit from nostalgic air proucucts which will be a virtual replacement for the stock unit. has a 4 port faceplate and my test shows a stronger blower motor and more cfm than even my modified stock unit. incidentally, i did upgrade the fan on the stock unit when i modified it. very little improvement. the whole unit is under 300 dollars with some adapter hoses, etc. i am going to install it in a few weeks. this unit is used in many larger cars and i think will do the job in the 308. the problem is not enough air coming out of the unit. the york compressor and evapoarators and condensors similar in size to the 308 parts will cool many larger cars. i should add that i eliminated any air to the uselss top dash vents and redirected all the air to the center and to the two side vents i added.
Do you mean you can no longer blow any air at the windshield? That would be a real problem in some climates and on rainy/foggy days etc. Granted many people would not be driving their car in bad weather if possible but if you take it on a long trip......
Funny but I use the dash vents as my primary delivery of AC. I turn them around and have them face me and aim for my head. This works well and if my head is cool then the rest of me does not feel as hot. I usually shut off the lower vents for a while to get the air moving in the dash vents. Just my approach.
you need the dry air from the AC to remove the moisture off the windshiled. simply blowing hot air onto it will not work.
I finally had some time to perform some prelimianry tests on the new evaporator blower motor. I used a wind speed meter and measured a peak velocity of 25mph with the stock blower and 52mph with the new blower. The short story is the new blower puts out at least twice the volume of air based on wind speed measurements alone. This does not take into account the fact that the new blower has a much larger area of high speed exiting air. The original blower had a peak wind speed measurement in a very narrow area. If the wind speed meter was moved to the remaining part of the air flow the speed would drop to 8 - 14 mph. The new blower has much better air distribution and would only drop to 36 - 48 mph in the remaining part of the airflow. The test was conducted in free air without the evaporator core. Adapter plates have been designed and machined which allow the new blower to attach to the original evaporator housing without requiring any modification to the original evaporator housing. The complete evaporator housing (left and right shell, minus the evaporator) and the new blower have been test fitted back into my 308 without any interference issues. Finally I connected the new blower motor using the factory wiring and ran the motor using the three speed switch. The connecting wires stayed cool, but the fuse was getting hot on the highest setting. I did not leave the blower motor on long enough to see if the fuse would blow, but there was definitly a lot of air coming out of the vents. Last weekend I pulled the condensor and will complete the condensor CAD model before mailing the condensor and evaporator so they can be reproduced in brazed aluminum with plate and fin technology. More to come........
Just finished the CAD model of the condensor which will be used to manufactur a replacement using plate and fin construction. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login