OK ~ ~ ~ ~ 1. Drain the main oil tank 2. Drain the bottom of the engine 3. Remove one of the filters (Deal with deluge of oil that comes out followed by substantial cleanup) 4. Remove second filter (Deal with deluge of oil that comes out followed by substantial cleanup - again!) So, where is all of this oil hiding that dumps from the first filter, and since filters are on same conduit, why does so much remain? But most importantly, how to do neatly?? I've changed the oil many times and not come close to anything I'd call neat. Cars on a lift, got a good oil catching tank w funnel, but still - big mess Thanks for help1
You could put a 1gallon zip lock bag over the filter as you spin it off. And you could punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it before spinning it off. I have changed my oil a few times and it does not seem that bad. I do loosen the ebrake cable support eyelet to help get the filters out with little or no tilt. They do hold a lot of oil.
"Punching hole in filter" That's just what I was looking for. Great idea - Thank you!! Do you start w filters? Will the tank oil flow down this path - in which case, long process for soo much oil. Or do in order: i) Tank ii) Motor case iii) Punch holes in Filters iv) Spin off filters Thanks again
Com'on, drain the oil from the tank and the pan, then punch holes in the filter or just take them off with care. Good luck.
Got the filters off - definitely better after poking holes to drain. What's the best product to clean Mobil-1 from clothing?? Curious how long it takes to change the motor oil on Boxer by those who've got it all figured out? I'm pushing a couple of days just to get oil out and filters off. Local dealer quoted ~$800 for this job. The job may be a messy one, but that still sounds steep. Also gives me the opp'y to clean and inspect some things while I'm in there.
800 for an oilchange? so with material ( oil and filter and copper rings ) or even without? it is not 1 hour work so you have here the F factor
That price must be a joke? 200$ for a good quality oil. 30$ for the filters and the copper ring. 150$ labor (1 hrs) = 380$ + F-factor = 400$. You have your legs pulled? Best Peter
I usually wear crappy old clothes when I change the gallons of oil in the boxer. Because there is always a few drips which get on me. Oh well, better that 400- 800 for a nitwit to do it.
I presume that includes a ride home, pick up service, and quite possibly, an espresso while you wait? - - - - - But, not necessarily. And wow, that shop is pretty! I don't know about their workmanship. So far, the oil change quote, and the $80US for a hose clamp that I passed on (which wasn't even in stock) have scared me away.
I called FOLI today to hear if they balaced tires, after several places said they can't do my splined hubs(they are off the car in my car). The weights keep falling off and after 2 attempts by the original place I wanted to try someone else. Yes, the person at FOLI answered. Great, I said, how much? His reply $80.00. Me, for all 4? Silence on the other end for a few moments then, no per wheel. Me, you're kidding right? Silence again then, no. Me okay no thanks.
That's a little steep. I picked up a screw that went thru the tread. I figured, try a dealer. I was told no repair, only replace due to liability which I guess sounds solid. Then they told me 2k. And yes - 1 tire. Their coffee must be incredible
so only the thread from the screw was not ok or the thread in the aluminum? what kind of drug has been inside the coffee? so expensive - then it must be a very good stuff
I did my first oil change on the BBi the other weekend. As a driveway mechanic, I didn't find it particularly messy, but I was admittedly a bit paranoid. Figured I'd share a few notes. Open to feedback / criticism. As far as cleanliness: I used a 4.5 gallon drain pan. Laid a few Pig Mat Pads on the ground in-case of spillage / splatter. A few pairs of Nitrile gloves. Scott Shop Towels. Process: Unscrewed the oil cap (might be unnecessary, but figured it couldn't hurt), then drained the sump (17mm). Once that finished, I went on to the reservoir (30mm). After that finished, I went a bit medieval on the filters. First using a punch, then a large screw driver which I later used as a handle to twist the filters off (pic attached of the carnage). I drained them simultaneously. I didn't use the gallon bag trick as it didn't seem necessary. I used Baldwin B252 filters, replaced the copper washers on both drain plugs, and filled with Castrol GTX 20W-50 oil. I torqued both drain plugs to 20 ft/lbs.. Not sure there are actual torque specs for these, and I think most just hand tighten. If I recall, I filled with 12 quarts, ran the car till warm, then topped off with another 1/2 quart. If I had more than one drain pan, I could have drained more than one thing at a time, but it wasn't that big of a deal to wait. Having done this once, I'm not sure I'd pay someone else to do it – especially for $800 and dealing with scheduling logistics. As an aside, my oil pressure "switch" (dummy light) had failed, so I took the opportunity to replace it while the filters were out. Image Unavailable, Please Login
What about the rest of the inspection? I understand you guys who do it yourself expect everything and want to pay for nothing but get real. No one in any quality shop does an oil change. The oil gets changed, the car gets inspected, everything inspected. All other fluids checked and topped up, tires inspected and aired up, all exterior lights checked for function. The oil need to get hot so it can be checked to be sure its full and then if the car is not test driven my insurance company will be cancelling me soon. Here in the real world $800 is not far off depending on the labor rate. $150 an HR???? Your in the wrong decade or living in Mozambique.
You're not opposed to using the Baldwin B252, correct? It seems the UFI, K&N, and Baldwin are all popular choices (did I miss any?). For me, the K&N is $15, made in Mexico. The Baldwin in $20, made in the USA.
Nothing wrong with it but there are better cheaper American made filters out there that are on the shelf of any auto parts store.
Baldwin B252 does not have a standpipe -- Baldwin B253 does, and is not necessary on a BB/BBi as you note.
Oil change is not a big deal. I also do coolant and brake fluid on 2 years. BBs are actually pretty simple cars to maintain.
