In the clutch... Flywheel resurfacing

Hi guys.

The car is a 95 355. Upon removing the clutch from the flywheel the problem was revealed - there was plenty of clutch material left, but the friction surfaces were contaminated with gear oil - from the look of it the O-ring was bad. So now I have to get into the flywheel, which is something I had hoped to avoid. Oh well, such is life...

I have been researching F-chat, and have organized the notes from many wise folks below on flywheel resurfacing and rebuilding. But first some basic questions;

Can the flywheel bolts be reused, or are new ones required (my MR-2 required new ones, which I sourced from ARP)?

Where can I find torque specs for these bolts?

Does anyone have any experience with shops in the mid-Atlantic region for resurfacing 355
flywheels?

Below are notes I pulled from various threads. Anyone have any issues with these?

Want flywheel turned, not ground to get parabolic shape

Have outer bolting surface ground same as flywheel surface to maintain original clamping force

The 355 flywheel is DESIGNED (according to FNA) with a .008 bevel in the machining....that is, it is dished very slightly.

Use 220 gr Kluber grease, With that much grease in the unit don't waste a great deal of time and money balancing it to perfection. Make sure you assemble the unit with grease packed into every void and on every moving surface. You will know what I mean when you first start the engine and it shakes like the dickens until the grease flows and corrects the imbalance. This much grease that far from the center line can and does do a great job of balancing everything by itself.

Make sure you clean the housing to perfection and use wicking locktite on the rivets and the flange.

Thanks for providing your knowledge.