Any tip how to remove the inner alloy 4 mm hex flat dust cap on the ATE rear callipers fitted on the 308/208 ? My hex just spins as the previous person seems to have rounded the internal 4 mm hex profile so the tool effectively spins . I’ve tried to find a image of the cap but can’t . It’s got some chisel marks , presume because it’s soft alloy it can be encouraged to turn with a sharp chisel and hammer . What’s it look like when it’s out ? Can a exact threaded alternative bolt be replaced suitable length to make it easy in the future . All I have done so far is examine it and spray it with WD 40 while awaiting the pads . Did think dremilling a slot it so a flat screw driver can gain leverage . How does a everybody else cope taking this cap / dust cover off . Outer one is easy a plastic 13 mm bolt . It’s the inner that looks a pig to shift . Any ideas please .
The Porsche aftermarket suppliers have already addressed this issue. The links in this thread probably won't work, but it shows how the aftermarket part has a large male hex drive (rather than a small female hex drive): https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/rear-brake-caliper-adjustment-screw-replacement.164013/#post-136996198 Try searching the Porsche aftermarket in your area of the world. Here's a US source: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELBRC02.htm?pn=PEL-BRC-02&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=P914 Hammer + chisel, or maybe using an EZ-out in the damaged female drive, to get the bad one out.
I have drimmeled a slot and used a large screwdriver to remove the old cover. Superformance sells the hex version that Steve is referencing for about $10. Highly recommend this part. http://www.superformance.co.uk/308/brakes.html
Thx guys . Appreciate the links .Had to chuckle in Steve’s link the designers “ pray in the temple of unsprung weight “
EDIT: I think I bought replacements on amazon. (checking...) yep. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786KY464/
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login So I managed to chisel them loose , they already had scars on them .2 min job thankfully.I did WD 40 everywhere 24 hrs earlier . I cut a slot for a screw driver and refitted with copper crush washers . Managed to back off the pistons enough for new pads .You can see them moving as you turn the Allen keys . The only fright was the outer on one started to leak fluid .This was alarming at first until I figured it self seals turning anti clockwise when tightening up the pad gap that’s been created to fit the thicker new pads . It must be T shaped with a seal inside the T in the Caliper that grips as it tightens .You can feel the pad tightening on the disk simultaneously as the adjuster ( anti-clockwise) turns and self seals .....phew ! Obviously it needed a bleed through when done as airs entered via the outer adjuster . Hand brake is as it as because it’s just a vertical worm gear that turns the inner adjuster to move the piston towards the disk . The thicker new pads make no noticeable difference to it’s worm gear set up turning the adjuster . I,ll revisit the handbrake cable adjustments another time it’s on the RHS cable in front of the exhaust box .Its been ok to date . The next order from super performance I,ll get some Hex bolts covers along with some new rear bleed nipples as the rears are so tiny they round easily .Fit this stuff next time I,am in that area .