Insert a controller within a circuit without splicing/cutting cables | FerrariChat

Insert a controller within a circuit without splicing/cutting cables

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by iPlane, Feb 12, 2018.

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  1. iPlane

    iPlane Karting

    Jul 22, 2009
    88
    Zürich, Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Fernando
    Hi there people,

    I have been investigating all over the internet, but I seem to hit the same wall over and over again. Since I am not subscribed in many other forums, I have decided to come to you with my enquiry. I hope I am able to explain well what I want to achieve!

    I am currently using my parking lights as DRLs. That's because in Switzerland, it is mandatory to drive during the day with the headlights on, if your car is not equipped with LED DRLs. Since I don't want drive all day with the pop-ups of my 348 on, I decided to replace the stock parking lights with some high intensity Philips LED bulbs. They do the trick in terms of intensity, etc.

    Unfortunately, during the equivalent of your MOT test, I was told that DRLs should decrease in intensity when the headlights are turned on.

    To achieve that, I have bought a DRL controller that does exactly that. It's a nifty black box that has as input the 12V for the parking lights, and also the 12V from the headlights.

    My goal is the following: I would like to be able to install this controller without making ANY permanent modification to the original wiring of the car. By that I mean, no cutting/splicing/etc.

    To achieve that, I had the following idea: I would locate the fuse that protects the circuit for the parking lights, and I would "replace it" with the controller. The problem that I have is that I haven't found any fuse-shaped part that allows me to insert a whole circuit (i.e. my controller) in place of the original fuse.

    The only thing that I have found are fuse taps that allow plugging a SECOND circuit, in addition to the original circuit that is driven via the fuse. But my requirement is that the original circuit via the fuse must be cancelled, and instead, the current must be re-routed through my controller, before returning to the output of the fuse box.

    I can always use individual fuse pins soldered to cables, so that one is inserted in the input of the fuse socket, and the other one in the output... but I'd prefer to use some fuse-shaped component if possible, so that the installation is a bit tidier.

    Any idea of whether anything like that exists?

    I apologize beforehand for the misusing of all the different terms... apart from having two left hands when it comes to electronics, English isn't my mother tongue. So please, bear with me on this one :)

    Thanks!!

    Fer
     
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    How about using a blown fuse?
     
  3. iPlane

    iPlane Karting

    Jul 22, 2009
    88
    Zürich, Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Fernando
    I thought about that too. But then the original problem still remains... how to get a cable out for each pin of the blown fuse, so that the new circuit can be inserted in between.

    There must be something that I am missing here... I admit electrical installations aren't my strongest suit, but I have the feeling that something like this must be one of the most basic things that can be done.

    Thanks a lot for the brainstorming, though!
     
  4. iPlane

    iPlane Karting

    Jul 22, 2009
    88
    Zürich, Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Fernando
    Hi! That's the component I was talking about before, which allows tapping on existing circuits via fuse. Unfortunately, if I understand correctly, this will do two things:
    - Keep the original circuit working
    - Add a second circuit in parallel to the existing one via the cable that pops out from the plastic structure

    Instead of parallel, my goal is to insert my controller in a series circuit, using the existing fuse socket.

    I'd need something similar to what you posted, but instead of having a single cable, it should have TWO cables... one for input, and another one for output, each connected to one of the pins (if that makes sense).
     
  5. iPlane

    iPlane Karting

    Jul 22, 2009
    88
    Zürich, Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Fernando
  6. mello

    mello F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 12, 2013
    5,042
    CA Bay Area
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Order two, cut between the blades and use the blades with the +12 leads. Will that work?
     
  7. eric355

    eric355 Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 30, 2005
    1,163
    Toulouse (France)
    Full Name:
    Eric DECOUX
    Not too difficult to do : cables soldered on top of a blown fuse and protected by a droplet of epoxy glue

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  8. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    That is what I had in mind when I said "how about a blown fuse?" Nicely done Eric.
     
  9. iPlane

    iPlane Karting

    Jul 22, 2009
    88
    Zürich, Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Fernando
    Fantastic! That's more what I was thinking about. Sorry if I had not visualized correctly what you meant.

    Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a shot!
     
  10. SethP

    SethP Karting

    Jul 2, 2014
    83
    Corning, NY
    Full Name:
    Seth Parks
    Why not just use two male spade connectors in place of the fuse?
     
  11. bisel

    bisel Formula 3
    BANNED

    Sep 12, 2012
    1,138
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Full Name:
    Steve Bisel
    Get a fuse tap (aka, add-a-fuse), that you referred to in your earlier post. Remove the fuse from its original position in the fuse block, insert that fuse in the upper position of the fuse tap and insert the fuse tap into the fuse block. Connect the wire coming from the fuse tap to the circuit that you want to control. Run the return from the circuit to the bottom right position of the fuse tap.

    Here is an illustration ...

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Best regards,

    Steve
     
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