Instabile gauges, bleeding issues 308

This is a little bit "normal" -- when the dash lights are "on", the ground signal at the gauges goes up a little because the wiring for the gauge ground is not a large gauge wire and/or its connection to the chassis might be a little corroded (and the dash bulbs share the same ground wire). You should see the same thing with the oil pressure gauge for lights "on" vs lights "off". If the needle movement is more than a needle width, or so = maybe justifies cleaning the ground for the gauges or adding another ground wire in parallel for the gauges.

This is not so normal, but IR guns aren't super-accurate (although the have great resolution which conveys a false sense of accuracy ), and the emissivity of the surface measured affects the measurement. One thing you can do is do a search on "104628" (the part number for the thermister that senses the coolant temp for the gauge). It's used on many, many F models, and I know that others have posted temperature vs resistance data for this 104628 thermister so you could check that (like in a pot of boiling water), or just buy a new one to see if it makes any difference (I think it's not super-expensive).

 

My temperature gauge acts a little funny. Most of the time my gauge runs slightly below the 90 Celsius mark but once in a while, it will climb up about 110. If I tap on the gauge a little bit hard, it just quickly returns back to about 90 Celsius. Do you think that’s a ground problem or something wrong with the gauge? Anybody else have that problem or try tapping on your own temperature gauge and see it it moves it climbs above normal. Also what do you consider running too hot? 85 Euro 308


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There is no magic or weird maneuvering required to bleed a PROPERLY functioning cooling system. When the cars were in production, owners were not taking them to the dealer every few weeks/months to have the cooling systems bled. If it needs bleeding between coolant changes, something is wrong in the system.