Installing the Pertronix MR-183

I'm glad to see you pointed out the circlip not called out in the Pertronix instructions. I've requested they clarify that, but don't expect action on it.

Tools list: Besides the usual, make sure you've got a good small gear puller to remove the upper bearing on the distributor. At least mine was a bear to get off and my small puller wasn't proper for the job.

Top tip: The insulation on the wires feels nice & soft, and it IS pretty weak & can be pinched, resulting in a short. Treat & route those leads with care.

Someone in another thread reported timing errors from one bank to the other because they reversed the modules from their original orientation on the mounting ring; I wound up replacing one on warranty but even with that, found timing equal from bank-to-bank.

 

Hi Guys,

Pertonix MR-183 on my list this winter for 75gt4, mainly for simplicity, reliablility, cost meantime eliminating as reducing many ignition problem areas in one go as I can.

Can I ask:

- did you remove the points in both distributors? or leave the slave set in there and just disconnect them?

- can all resistors be removed?

- did you both change your coils? (I have some new aftermarket coils that match the specs of the Pertonix Flamethrowers which i think they recommend to match up with the kit).
- Don, you pulled the bearing to overhaul the distributors right? was there signs that an overhaul was needed or was that 'while i'm in there'?

- Did you change the spark plug leads?

Sorry, perhaps some very obvious questions.

 

I haven't removed the leftover parts from the second distributor. I should.
All resistors can be removed.
I installed Flamethrower II coils, recommended by Pertronix as best matched to the Ignitor II.
The top bearing needs to be removed to remove the old innards and install the Pertronix setup.
Spark plugs are still Cavis.

 

Thanks Don,

As as I understand the MR-183 is Ignitor whereas the 9MR-183 is the IgnitorII kit (which wont burn out if you leave the ignition on without the motor running). In which case IgnitorII should be the one to get. Does that tally?

Sake of repetition for others reading, understand both are kits for converting points to electronic meanwhile moving that role from 2 distributors into 1 (leaving the other dizzie functioning as a spark distributing slave).

 

They list a slew of other benefits of the Ignitor II compared to the original, I thought it was a slam dunk to pay the few extra bucks. It didn't cost much to upgrade at Summit Racing.

 

awesome - thank you

 

Sorry, another dumb question. Once installed, did you change the gap on the plugs?

I currently run 0.20-0.25 but it seems very narrow - perhaps with better spark (new coils) the gap can be increased.

 

I left my plugs at their as-built gap of 0.029". Some day I might monkey with that.

 

I have the same set up as you, Ignitor II and Flamethrower II Epoxy. Also the Flame Thrower 7 mm spark plug wires set. I haven't changed the spark plug gap yet and I am not sure if I should. What is the real benefit from doing this?

/Pero

 

Had Crane Cam prior to Pertronix and when I checked my old mail I actually asked Summit Racing for what to do with spark plug gap (this was CC system). Increase or what. Answer:

"Hello,
Even with the high output ignitions, we have really found no performance advantage beyond .040 - .045, so I would keep it in this range."

/Pero

 

I'm looking forward to the upgrade! Have a couple of questions. Which dizzy did you guys choose for the installation? What about the mechanical advance? And that micro switch located next to the throttle plate on one of the carbs? I thought that's part of the wiring?

 

I used the rear one for better access and that the advance curve was better on that one. Have a -75 GT4, not sure I have a micro switch.

/Pero

 

When you remove the points you can also remove the microswitch and bracket. The only thing you might want to do to the mechanical advance is to check it and lub. it. I installed mine in the dizzy closest to the rear of the car. Set the timing at 7* and replaced the coils with Bosch Blue. The system has been installed back in 2000 and I have not touched it. Also I left the plugs at the OEM gap and am using NGK 5's . I only changed the plugs once in 12 years and they looked great.

 

The Petronix or the Crane Cams set-up do not provide the advance -- the stock mechanical advance system is retained and used.

Both the Petronix and Crane Cams set-ups are an "R1 only" architecture -- the (US) throttle microswitch is not used (and the idle timing is set to the R1 spec, not the R2 spec).

 

Just a question here , how does the Pertronix instruction sheet tell you to set up the other distributor.

 

Same here except I use 6's. I left the points in the forward dizzy with the gap closed to the limit.

 

Does anybody want me to scan and post the Petronix instructions again?

Jeff[/QUOTE]

Jeff if it not to much, I would appreciate the repost of the instructions or thread link - thanks!

 

Pardon my ignorance, but how did you convert one dizzy, and are apparently still using two? if I am reading the right?

You state one dizzy has insufficient mech advance, bat apparently it is still being used somehow? That mech adv deficiency is still there, even if the points are not being used in that one.

Or did you find an 8 tower cap for one of your distributors?

I am somewhat confused on this.

Doug

 

BTW, having the mech advances in each dizzy not in sync can make for some really weird running symptoms if the advance variation gets too great.