Instructions for fixing a headlight switch

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64460&page=12

copied and posted link in the "sticky" 308 thread with credit to "maddash" for his headlight repair documentation thread.

 

his post should help you.

 

I pulled mine apart when I first got it 6 years ago and when I did, the little ball bearing shot out; I never did find it, so the knob is very loose. Does anyone know a size bb that will substitue??
Thanks!

Eric

 

Yea, a 3/16 ball will work, it is .187 dia the stock ball is just a bit under that at .183 only .005 to .006 not a biggie. You could go smaller to .171 or 11/64 too. The real problem is the switch contacts don't reliably connect for what ever reason age, shrinkage, overuse... just like us...

 

Awesome, Thanks Bill....

 

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!!!!

My lights were not operating and I opened the stock and sure enough the problem was exactly as you guys said-I soldered the wires back on and like magic my lights were functional again.

I drove for over an hour last night I was so happy!

 

It seems like the notches on my headlight knob have worn down as I simply have to find the "sweet" spot where the lights pop up and stay lit. Do you feel this is an easy fix by simply purchasing a new knob?

 

Hi guys,

I ve had the same problem with my light knob, after disassembling, I noticed that the steel ball was gone, i coold fix itb with the steel ball that came with (i think) any ink printer cartridge refill kit. So you could go to a refill station and ask for a steel ball.
The problem with the spring can also be fixed with the modified spring in a ballpoint pen.

Hope to help you.
Greetings from Southwest Germany
(...and sorry for my english)

 

Just wanted to thank you guys for allowing me to once again drive in the dark. Lights crapped out on me about 2 weeks ago far from home. Thought I was going to have a hefty switch replacement in my future. Stumbled across this thread last night and made the solder repair in about 15 minutes.

Thanks!

 

Will this take care of my need to only partially rotate the knob to lift the lights? If I rotate it around completely, as I should be able to, the lights retract. If it's the plastic or solder joint, I'll be glad to take it on. Being able to do it in place would be great.

 

Mine was the same way. If I rotated the switch midway between off and on they would work. Then, during a late night drive, they turned off for good.
The end of the switch comes off very easily and then you can see the loose connection. As others have stressed, wrap the switch in a bag or rag or you can kiss the little ball goodbye.
Good luck!

 

Thanks, I'll get to it.

 

Once again, you guys collectively rock. I'd accidentally stumbled on this gem of a thread, had the switch problem and thought "why not?". I went downstairs at lunch, zipped a plastic bag over the stalk and had a go of it. The switch knob came off nicely and the steel ball was caught. The spring stayed in place, which is fine. It turns out that the lead on the underside has broken loose. About fifteen minutes this evening with my soldering gear and she'll be back in business. In the photos above, you'll also see a piece of card or paper between the contacts. Not only is it great for any topside soldering that you might need to do, but it will break the circuit while you work, preventing the headlight pods from bouncing up and down

For those of you needing to do this, take the above advice to forego the tools for removing the switch. Grab the stalk with one hand and pull straight out on the switch (with the bag over it and the switch in the "off" position). With a little bit of wiggling, mine came right off. It's not worth chewing up the plastic parts with metal levers. It will be great to have another simple but essential feature restored. On reassembly, I'll drop a little spot of silicone on the ball, to keep wear down in the years to come.
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Soldered up that connection tonight, and it's clicking on like new. Thanks, all

 

The common BB is 4.57 mm in diameter. Come in copper and steel. Might make a good replacement and you get alot for a buck.

 

This board has been a life saver. The Mondial I purchased a year ago has had a problem with the switch ,I must admit I used black tape that held it shut...( it had turned its self on twice leaving me with a dead Battery, GOD for bid any co-worker tell me) Pulled apart today it has a oversize ball replaced it with a BB and now have a detent that keeps switch in off position. Thanks again.

 

Birdman...so, two years later...this post finds me again! Yes, the responses above help immensely. I'm going to search McMaster Carr and see if I can find the proper spring. This site is amazing.

 

That dimension converts to 0.179 so if that dimension is correct, that would almost be a perfect fit! Now on to find the spring.

 

Spring options?

1. All Metric Spring Parts (Part #: MKASGNM046035017) http://www.catalogds.com/db/service?domain=amsp&command=showProduct&category=ref_no_table_9_72&product=MKASGNM046035017

or...

2. Jones Spring Company Inc. (Part #L: 4017) http://www.springsfast.com/part_detail_compression.php?part=4017

I wasn't able to find anything at McMaster Carr that would seem to work...maybe I just didn't look close enough.

 

Updating thread based on feedback from Verell

Detent spring for ball inside of twist knob:

"I get these springs from a local TruValue hdw store's spring display.
Century Spring Co.
#A-500
type: compression
ODxLENxWire OD: 5/32x9/16/0.020

I have to use a dremel cut-off to cut one end down to a length of about 10mm. You want the spring's factory end to be flush or slightly below the top of the hole when the cut end is inserted into the contact holder.

I tweak the length by checking the twist knob's feel. Don't force the twist if it feels stiff, you can easily break the contact holder. If it feels too stiff take off about 1/4 turn and try again."

Thank you Verell!

 

Great thread, just have my '83 Mondial QV here in Mexico, and while driving in the late afternoon, somewhat obscure, suddenly the lights went out. Stopped, checked the fuse, but no problem there. So went home with intermittent alarm lights on, bit embarrassing.
Found this thread, opened the headlight switch and also found the solder joint loose. Soldered it back (not very nice), but now I am back in business again. Thanks for the great community.

 

Good work

 

Awesome thread folks! Only thing more awesome would have been if I had joined ferrarichat three weeks ago....before I stumped up for a new main switch for my 328! Still - ebay here I come with the newly repaired, 'clicking' one...you guys rock

 

I just did this last night. I too did an F Chat search, and after a quick run to the hardware store for a soldering iron it was done in 30 minutes. The only hard part was keeping the solder from dripping down. I had an iron and think it might be easier with a torch but I did not trust myself.

 

Thank You Verrel, My GT4 turn signal stalk dropped to the floor last month and as I was in Boston last weekend for the Marathon I stopped at Unobtainium and dropped off my switch assembly. Verrel is remaking it this week and I hope to have it back together next week. With new molded switch bodies. As it turned out there were several problems with the switch assembly with multiple broken plastic bits. This tutorial for assy and reassembly has proven invaluable. So far no lost springs or balls or additional broken parts.