Is it an easy job to change bulbs? My tach bulb went out the other day. Panel under dash? I'll probably check it out tomorrow or this weekend. Thanks for heads up....
most problem is the small nut in the center under the instruments for the panel to remove. then remove the whole instruments and replace just all bulbs. otherwise could be you will start again in a few weeks
I just did this job. Don't try to replace bulbs with instrument panel in-place. By location I assume yours is a USA TR with the knee bolster installed? If so getting the instrument panel out may be a chore. Like Turbo-Joe says, first thing to check is lower your steering column to the lowest level and see if the leather trim panel (#55) is secured with a single flange nut. If you can loosen this nut enough to pull the trim piece out you will have an easy time. If it is tight and you can't get a wrench on it, you will need to at least loosen but likely remove the knee bolster (#53, only on U.S. models--yea!) to allow the steering column to lower further and allow access to the flange nut. I was fortunate in that the nut had fallen off so I was able to slip out the trim piece easily without messing with the bolster. Once the trim piece is removed you will see behind it two bolts (early) or nuts (late) that secure the housing. Disconnect 3 connectors under dash, remove nuts or bolts, then rotate the pod towards the windscreen to unlatch the forward edge. Then it just pulls out, no need to remove the steering wheel. If the bolster needs to come out I think that will also require that one or both footwell panels (where the speakers are) and the center (floor) console must be removed--again I have not done so you may want to research further on the forum before tearing in. I can post some photos when I get home if it would be useful Once removed you will see the bulb sockets, the are just a friction fit into the housing. Change them all while you are in there and check all connections. Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Dear Ferraristi, Nice write up 302Tim. You don't need to touch the knee bolster. Just remove the nuts and flip forward as you described. I have the special Baum tool for removing the steering wheel with ease, so I took the wheel off for greater access, Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
How do you get a wrench/socket on the single nut in the center? Mine has maybe 1/4" clearance between the upper steering column cover and bottom of dash pad--no room to get any tool in there. When my steering column is fully lowered it rests on the top of the knee bolster--so I figured the bolster had to come down (out) to allow the column to drop down further to get a wrench on the center nut---so how do you do it without removing the bolster? I noticed my panel has elongated holes for the two outboard nuts, allowing some vertical adjustment of the panel but even with it maxed out vertically I can't get a wrench in there
for this nut I always use an open 10 mm wrench, but can only drill always about 60° until I have to change to next hexagon. once it is loose you can use your fingers to take away completly. but really not a very good job to do
Use 1/4" drive small socket with universal and long extension. Cut the large flat washer after removal down on one side like a flat. Then when you put the pod back in you can leave the the nut just loose and rotate the washer to capture trim panel. Ago
If you have the cluster out to replace bulbs. If you have trouble with your dash light dimmer being erratic, take a pencil eraser and clean off the oxidation on the copper rheostat. Ago
I know this is old but I was planning on doing this as my Tach seems loose and I believe I have a bulb or two out. Excellent pictures. Always a pleasure . Thanks Giallo
A tip: the washer that holds the trim piece in place. Cut it in half, you can work the trim piece in without removing the 8mm nut all the way.
An old post but relevant. I have two Testarossa's that the panel under the instrument panel secured by the single nut, have twisted out on both ends, because the leather is shrinking slightly. One of the cars only has 3000 miles on it, and is pretty much perfect. BUT the panel pokes out on both sides, since it's ONLY secured by the center nut. I did get the panel out by lowering the steering column, and loosening the nut with just a long slender ten millimeter combination wrench. A 1/4 inch drive socket did NOT fit, After removing the center nut, the panel was still held captive by the upper instrument panel, but the two nuts holding the instruments in are easily removed with a 1/4 inch drive socket. The instrument panel can be raised up, and the lower panel removed. My lower panel is bowed about an inch. The fibreglass panel that this part is made with, does not have a stiffening rod, so it flexes right in the center. I'm either going to fibreglass, or use a hot melt glue gun, to place a stiffening rod across the top of this panel. There IS enough room to put in a rod, and still get the panel back in place. I just bought a burned Testarossa, and this panel had a repair using an old screwdriver blade- hot melt glued onto the panel. The panel was perfectly straight, unlike my other two US model cars. These panels are NOT in the non-USA cars.
The TR SPC indicate that early non-US TR had two small separate panels, but that non-US TR got the longer, single panel starting with SN 67079 -- was/is your comment based on a non-US TR before SN 67079?
Yes I also have a single mirror Swiss car that's an early car. No crash pad, just a piece of leather around the steering column. Kind of nice actually to not have that big clunky crash pad. More leg room. One has to wonder why engineers figured they had to make a tube frame, extra heavy duty structure at the knee level for. Interesting that the small tubes on the USA cars are cross drilled, to crumple in an impact. Multiple u-joints on the steering column. Really made it safe. I'm working on my Austin Healey 3000, and you look at the single piece steering shaft that goes from the front of the car, one piece right to the steering wheel, and one has to appreciate the lengths engineers went to make cars safer. I would NOT want to crash a 60's car, They're relative death traps!