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Irritating Rattle

Discussion in '348/355' started by Buzzl, Feb 9, 2020.

  1. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    So I have this terrible rattle behind the passenger seat (RH side). Checked everything inside cabin. All is good. All is tight with the convertible top frame. All is well inside door as I had door card off last week. Also removed rear tire and wheel well. Sounds like it could be between the radiator and door jamb, like something loose and knocking around. Anyone have any pictures of this space that they could share? Has anyone had this issue before? Any thoughts from you guys that have replaced a RH radiator before? Thanks
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 Rookie

    Feb 20, 2015
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    Is it constant when driving or do you just hear it when you go over bumps? Is it related to road speed, engine speed, etc?

    I've had all kinds of rattles/squeaking in my spider. A lot of them come and go. I was trying to describe one hard to reproduce noise to my tech and we went driving together. He could hear one noise which he attributed to poor positioning of the Motronics harness (but I didn't understand how wiring harness could cause a noise). I can't say I heard it after my last major.

    I don't think there is much between the radiator and the door jamb, other than wiring and the intake trunking. The latter is held on with one screw. Impossible to get to.
     
  3. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium Formula 3

    Jul 28, 2018
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    A pebble trapped and rolling around in that space? Lodges and dislodges? The ducting is inserted in the jamb space, possibly loose and chassis flex causing it to rattle like a dash on an older car does?
     
  4. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    Just when I hit a bump although today when I made a hard left turn the noise occurred without a bump. It was like something dangling and then hit something during the turn.


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  5. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    Can the duct be pulled out from the jamb side? I haven’t looked at that.


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  6. MAD828

    MAD828 Formula 3
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    No it can’t, only able to remove with radiators out.
     
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  7. Qavion

    Qavion F1 Rookie

    Feb 20, 2015
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    #7 Qavion, Feb 9, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2020
    No, that would be too easy :p You can check the security of the duct by sticking your hand into the intake for the radiators and upwards into the duct inlet. Your hands will probably get dirty doing this.

    I'm not sure how the intake for the radiators is held in place. Perhaps this gentleman would know (although the car is a Berlinetta):

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/146907180/

    Borrowed one of his pics... Inside, looking out

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    (sorry, crossposted with Elliott)
     
  8. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3
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    Just a few suggestions...

    1) The door lock striker could be loose??? Try tightening the allen socket. (which screws into that oblong metal plate shown in photo above).

    2) if you get a nasty rattle when closing the door there's a tab on the frame for the window (inside the door) often brakes near the back and rattles inside the door.

    3) The 4 allen screws that hold the grill/fins to the door maybe loose - again try tightening. Also there is a screw on the back of the inside of the door that also holds the fins on.

    4) The bottom sill cover - check its not loose.

    5) The inner wheel arch trims maybe loose?

    6) There's a couple of bolts that the air vents go over and are bolted on. They always seemed to be cracked/damaged - check that they are still secure.
     
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  9. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Feb 18, 2008
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    Did you try moving the passenger seat around?
    Anything on the glovebox if you have one?
    Maybe the passenger footwell metal fuse lid is loose but I doubted

    Start wiggling things outside and in the engine bay. Way too many places to guess in my opinion.
    nothing I have seen consistently has been recorded as a know problem. Each case tends to be unique
     
  10. Qavion

    Qavion F1 Rookie

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    On a LHD car, is the back up/emergency engine cover release handle on the passenger side? Is that rattling?
     
  11. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Good call but mines not long enough to rattle but as I said there is lots of guesses
     
  12. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    It’s sounds a bit like something heavy in weight. I gotta get it back out and get it in some different scenarios. I’ll keep all informed for future referencing.


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  13. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Totally guessing again but the oil tank could be loose it’s metal and heavy and sits on bushings that could be worn out.
     
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  14. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    I tried shaking it but I think I’ll look a little closer . You may be right. Thanks


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  15. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    There is two mounting points and it sits on a rubber bushing which a pin sits in.
    The one mount on top is easy, the one above the hrs wheel will need both wheel and fender liners off to see.
    It may not move side to side but could move up and down.
     
  16. Beetle

    Beetle Formula Junior
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    I believe that is only an option on RHD cars mate
     
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  17. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

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    Could this be the problem? It looks like the grommet is missing. The grommet part # is 10396480. Does the grommet prevent tank from sliding around?


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  18. Qavion

    Qavion F1 Rookie

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    If it doesn't stop it sliding around, it may stop metal to metal contact. Looks like you've found your problem.

    Doesn't look easy to change. I had my wheel liners off recently. Wish I'd known it was something to look for.
     
  19. yelcab

    yelcab F1 Veteran
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    If that were your problem, and I have my doubt, then it is an easy one to fix. You remove the two M8 bolts holding the tank at the top. You will then gain enough flexibility in the set up to move the tank up so that you can insert the rubber grommet into the tank mounting structure and seat the tank back down to the pin. Then tighten the two bolts at the top. You might have to loosen one oil line connection to give it sideway movement.

    You can push on the bottom of the tank to see if there is enough flex to actually move it around to make that rattle noise. Once the two mounting bolts above are tight, and the three oil lines are in place, there is not any movement at the bottom of the tank at all.
     
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  20. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    Yeah, I have my doubts too. At least that issue will be taken care of. The area where the grommet fits has a slight bend so it could be from impacting. We shall see. Ordered the grommet from Ricambi.


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  21. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    I would say that is a good start
    That would be nice if I was right.
    If the other 2 are loose it’s a really good chance
     
  22. Qavion

    Qavion F1 Rookie

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    Can you jam a piece of wood or plastic in the mounting hole to stop it moving, just to see if it still rattles on a test drive? With the car jacked up, the body may be flexing into a different position, so not giving you a good idea of how loose it may be.

    Having said that, you may as well wait until the new grommet arrives, so you won't have to pull the car to pieces again.
     
  23. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    Received grommets today. Trying to come up with a game plan. My first thought is to just unhook all hoses and pull the tank out. If I leave it in I’m not really sure if I will get the flexibility that I need. How much oil will I be capturing if I decide to remove tank? It looks like there’s room for the tank to come out without removing the hood. Any thoughts?


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  24. Buzzl

    Buzzl Karting

    Can the oil tank be taken out through the wheel well? I’m trying to avoid removing the tank but hole where grommet goes is bent making it impossible to install and I can barely get fingers in area to get grommet in place. I’m going to take wheel and wheel well off to see If I can gain better access. Any tips or thoughts? Also, one of the top bolts that holds the tank was very loose. Thanks for steering me in the right direction.


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  25. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    I would say maybe, but things are tight in there.
    You would have too look, but if it’s too tight and you drained oil, and removed the oil line to the cooler I would say you could move the tank up and over thus giving access.
    I am currently taking my engine out so this line is disconnected and on mine I think I could.
    The problem you would have in getting it right out that I can see is the holding bolt that is hardest to get at under the wheel well has very little clearance to the subframe assembly so because I have never tried to get the tank out without engine removal I am unsure.
    The main line coming into the left side of the tank is not very flexible.
    Rather than guess, do what you suggested and take off inner wheel well and check your clearances. Then take off any lines preventing the tanks mobility and my guess is you can get enough movement to get the tank off the post.
    If the post is actually bent it will be a stretch to bend it back, but replacing the grommet could I think be done.
    Because I have not done this I am definitely not positive so you can let the brotherhood know.
    Many diy’ers have done things that were not supposed to be done.
     

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