Is euro spec 328 a good deal?

Question about euro 328 cars? Ferrari literature quotes euro spec 328 to have 270 bhp compared to US spec car with 260bhp. Is this difference due to a "dry sump" vs. "wet sump" engine design as with earlier euro vs. US 308 models? Books seem to say all 328 engines were wet sump but are vague on this point, so why the difference in HP? Also, I can't find mention of difference in either max torque or performance comparisons between the two engine versions (0-60, 0-100, top speed, etc.) Any of you guys know this?

I've been told having a euro spec car in the US is undesirable and, therefore, of lower value because of all the necessary EPA and DOT paperwork for legal registration, lack of euro spec parts in US, tougher to pass annual emissions test for state inspections, and reluctance of authorized Ferrari dealers to service these cars.

So nowdays if you find a well maintained euro spec 328 with all complete paperwork for US market and you plan to service and repair the car by an independent Ferrari mechanic (which lets face it you'll do anyway for a 15-18 yr old car even US spec), and the car has a bid more power (and presumably slightly better performance) as well as the rarity of a "euro" car amidst plenty of "bread-and-butter" 328's truly becoming an Italian exotic, and all for less money due to lower asking price... then that's what I call a good deal! Someone please tell me if I'm missing something here with this logic.

 

They're all wet sump. Difference is in the timing and some of the emmissions equipment.

There are some issues with owning a euro car, but they are minor so long as you have full EPA/DOT paperwork. Some times its a hassel with insurance or getting it registered, other times its getting it to pass emmissions. I've owned a Euro car since 1997 and its never even been an issue for me, but your milage may vary. If you get into one of the hassels, you may have wished you ponied up and got a US spec car.

10 hp isn't going to make any difference in a 328 performance wise in real world conditions...

Get a V12 if you want power.

 

The 10 hp difference is due to a higher compression ratio for the Euro model (9.8 vs. 9.2 for the U.S.) in addition to some engine timing differences.

 

Euro cars seem to be *on paper* they way to go. Much more lively and such. Would I personally pay extra? No. Would I choose a euro over a US if everything else was the same and it had proper papers? Yes.

 

Agreed, Euro is the way to go if proper EPA/DOT papers are included. As a generl rule of the time, Euro had better engine (per se), less restrictions, and also weighed less.

 

Let's say I go to buy a euro 328. How do I know that the EPA/DOT papers are legit? What should I look for in the paperwork? Do these documents need to be updated or are they approved once when the car is imported into US and basically do not expire for the life of the car? Thanks for all the input on euro spec cars.

 

You can call the DOT/NHTSA to verify the registration of said "release" papers. The contact is: Richard Merritt 202.366.5300 You will need the VIN available to give him.

I would agree that 10hp is nothing...but the weight difference could be significant, and the combination could be significant. The drawback is that if they must reinforce the doors and bumpers, plus add the emission equipment, the car may weigh the same (or more) and make the same hp as a USA spec car, or even less.

Personally, I don't think it is worth the hassle. I think resale may be problematic too. Now if you can get a great deal, then that may make it all worthwhile. I would certainly have an emissions check as part of the ppi.

 

Is this the car in question?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2482820959&category=6212

 

I am wondering "in general" but yes this car on E-Bay did pique my interest.