Heres a picture of the three of us. Me on the left, fatbillybob in the middle, and Plugzit in the right. Hahahaha. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to my good buddy in London (Paul Hill), I think we know how to switch them from Celsius to Fahrenheit. There is a small electrical shunt placed on top of two pins inside the unit. If I'm not mistaken, you remove the shunt to run in Celsius, and leave it in place to run Fahrenheit. Don't do this with your own unit. I have a test mule, and I'll try it myself in a few days when I have some time. Image Unavailable, Please Login
P.S. Has anybody seen my chewing gum? I had it when I was working on my car last time, now it has gone missing.
That same thought has been going through my mind. If we assume the starter is relying upon a ground established somewhere from the block is there that much ground loss in the motor...no. The electronics on the motor as well as the starter all rely on a good bond from battery-frame-motor or vice versa. The starter is the heaviest load to pull- it amazes me that there was a good enough ground to let the starter operate fine & not enough to let the electronics operate.. If it was my car I would be looking at every point on that motor that relies on a ground from the motor/chassis to operate. I would guess somewhere there will be a bad contact/oxidation from possibly dissimilar metals ie: aluminum-copper. Call me conservative but you need to look at every spot a ground is made up for any of your electronics...somewhere you will find it. I am not referring to the main bond between motor/chassis/battery I am referring to individual componets where they establish their indepndant path to ground. My guess is somehow when you added the additional motor bond, you jumped around your fault (almost in a sense bypassed it). Good Luck, Chris
It could be random due to the straps connection to the car changing as the car rattles around or just the strap decaying away. My T/A experience was with the car it would random start and sometimes not. The strap was not connected securely to the body and when driving it would rattle around and lose its good connection with the body. I also had an expereince with a John Deere 4010 tractor back in the day restoring it with my father where there was a piece of steel the whole electronic system was grounded to. Well that piece of steel rusted away giving us all kinds of strange behavor until one day I found it and replaced it so that the ground fully connected to the body again (it was hanging by a rubber strap) and then everything worked beautifully sense. I just drove her last weekend
It may still fire, oddly enough. Keep in mind that it was running without one before he replaced the transmission. Ahhhh, the mysteries of the intermittently bad ground through the shifter cables!!!!!!!!
You know what, now that I think of it, I think that it did have the extra ground strap before. I just had the damn thing appart for so long that I think I forgot what it was for. Hahahaha son of a gun. How dumb can you get? Okay...... don't answer that. Anyway I had the tranny appart since last Christmas. Go figure. But you can be for damn sure that I won't be forgetting that crap again. However. The car did start up without a hitch two days in a row, and ran all day long with no problems, after multiple shut offs and starts. So again go figure?