Jittery head light mount 328

1) Four screws on the sides of the buckets to gain access to the lamp by removing the front bucket bezel.
First turn the light on to raise the bucket then unplug the battery ground as needed via socket behind/beside/between the left light & the spare tire. This also gives access to front bucket mounting bolts.

2) Four screws to remove the lamp. I know you ruled it out but it may still be possible that the lamp & socket is vibrating in the reflector.

3) Four screws to remove the louvres and gain access to the bucket, motor, and raising lever from the rear.

Easy job requiring only a medium philips.

 

328 doesn't have the louvres.

You have to get access to the rear of the pod, which has a lip that touches on an adjusting bolt with a small rubber cap on it. This bolt screws into a bracket on the rear of the pivot carrier.

Put headlamp up, disconnect battery and get to it from the bonnet side.

This is assuming your mechanism is identical to a 308's.

These stops are a somewhat fragile construction, and if it is slightly bent on the frame it'll go out of whack again quickly, so make sure the lip touches on the top of the stopper screw squarely.

 

WATCH IT - be VERY careful when fooling about with these light mechanisms. SOOOOoooo tempting to just dive in with out disconnecting the battery. Trip the up/down switch and the motor drives an arm that rotates the box. Fingers will NOT slow down its operation. So if you want to avoid an embarrasing situation that clips your digits in such a way it looks like you are flipping off the world - disconnect the battery.

OK - that said. From memory and a 308. There are four plastic bearings on the box axels - two each box. Cheapest part I ever bought for our 308. Replaced those and all was good. I believe you will have to remove grill in front. The 78 308 requires fender grill removal.