430 Just bought a 430 conversion and want to confirm what kit this is

The plastic spacers are supposed to be there. It to hard to tell what u have at this point
If you take off the gate, 2 minutes, and remove the plastic parts it might help

 

Or look at the top of the clutch pedal. CM kits have “Dr S” molded into the top of the pedal.

also, if you look through the tower and see that it’s cast, it’s a CM kit. EAG was all machined.

 

@modificator can probably help out. There's a lot of info here (and owners) regarding conversions. We should be able to help you get it dialed in to be much better if it's not great right now.

 

Dead giveaway in this pic right here. You have a cotter pin holding the reverse lockout section on like EAG.

 

Does the car drive and function coreectly?

 

I'm sure you will find out elsewise with so many available indicators. Just FYI,more recently, EAG was machining their twoers, in the early days of EAG conversions, I think they were able to purchase some OEM towers, and mine, made in Nov 2020, is actually cast in two parts and welded, I needed to remove the tunnel to verify hi I had an OEM tower or the 2 part cast one.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149043640/

 

You can pull the panel behind the driver’s seat and see if there is a scudding Swiss E-diff bypass installed. If so, it’s possible you may need additional wiring done to make the E-diff functional.

 

This looks like EAG to me with that pin

 

Regarding Cambio Manuale, please see some photos of our parts at our website https://cambiomanuale.com/ but in any case the first photo in this thread is EAG and not Cambio Manuale (DrS). You can tell by previously mentioned cotter pin sticking out (you don't see the pin in Cambio Manuale) and the aluminum "finger" which points to the left has a visible circle at EAG and has a smooth top at CM. CM is shaped like Ferrari plastic one. Additionally the black part under the gate is larger in EAG and visibly prevents the full travel of the shifter (prevents the "click clack" of the shifter hitting the gate).

But please also note that we have shipped CM/DrS parts to customers who have EAG kits and wanted an upgrade to direct, precise and not wobbly shifting. So there are cars out there which have mixture of parts. It's worth checking the actuator attached to the transmission. If it is cast aluminum and looks like factory original, it is CM. If it is shiny CNC machined, it is EAG.

Also, except for some initial ones, CM kits have serial numbers engraved on the shift tower and on the back of the clutch pedal. So you can contact us with that serial number to find out the kit revision, original owner, installer etc.

 

You'd honestly be doing the community a bit of a favor to say which dealer it is, if they straight up lied to you. You also would have some recourse. If a dealer advertises themselves as doing conversions and they either are not competent enough to know the difference between kits or just lied, that's pretty bad.

I'm a bit jaded by PPI because mine was from a reputable place as well but they missed about 5-7k of work that now that I'm educated more should have been obvious to them.

 

If you have F1 hydraulics (pump, reservoir etc) visible, the car likely has E-diff retained. If you have ScudIng E-diff controller installed (look for cigarette pack sized box under carpet behind driver) it allows turning the E-diff on and off etc. by some sequence of controls on the steering wheel. That is probably what the dealer had in mind.

 

I think it still needs some wiring if the F1 system is removed to enable the e-diff even if you have the scudding E-diff controller.

 

Yes. ScudIng E-diff module is just to give more control over the E-diff operations. If you convert F430 from F1 automatic to manual and if you want to retain E-diff operation, it is necessary to plug up some holes in the hydraulic block and to re-wire the car for E-diff operation. Instructions and wiring is provided with Cambio Manuale kits and I would expect them to be provided with kits from EAG, as EAG has been retaining E-diff in their conversions so they know how to do that. I'm making an assumption that the conversion has been done correctly and that this wiring has already been put in place. (This assumption is worth verifying considering previous comments from this selling dealer/installer