Ran a search and I know it's here but could not find it and am getting tired (it's 02:00 AM CEDaylightT). As many here know I have my car in about 1000 pieces. Labor of Love as someone here called it. I guess that is true. I do EVERYTHING by hand. I have been amazed how few tin worm (rust) infestations I have found (none except surface) to date ......... until today. Took off the passenger's side door fiberglass interior to have it re-leathered this coming week and found my first and hopefully last, rust deposit. It is not great but needs attention. It is more than surface rust but it doesn't cover a significant area. I'll post pics in the next few days. It is in the passenger's door on the leading edge starting about 1-1.5 inches up the window sill, running down and inside the door and inside the window's travel when fully up. Seems a door seal was not in the best of positions for years as the driver's side shows almost no rust at all. Question. How do I KILL THIS BUG NOW (without cutting it out; saving that for later) or at least slow him the f*&# down for a couple of years until I can get around to the planned 100%, lose your a$$ financially, rebuild of this car? Any sprays/liquids out here that REALLY work? Heard about them but ..... I am skeptical. But I have to get another F-Car first before the total rebuild (for the wife of course, Mondi or GT4) as being without a running Ferrari is freaking killing me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! As always appreciate your input. Mark
Use this stuff... http://www.por15.com/ If you intend to spray it you'll need to buy their thinner too, otherwise it's too thick.
Yep POR15 and put it on with a foam brush. Wear rubber gloves and don't get it on anything other then the area you want to protect. I had both of my doors done last year. Once you see rust bubbles then usually the whole lower front end of the door is infected. Cost me $1000 to get both doors done. I posted pictures sometime back early last year. They look brand new and the body shop did not need to paint the outside . Once it starts you need to cut it out and fix it.
Mark, POR15 is great stuff. Made a believer out of me years ago. Once cured, it's completely impervious to oxygen & moisture. No free lunch. Like most good things, it's not as simple as just brushing on the POR15 encapsulating paint. POR15 is a system of chemicals. Their SUPER STARTER KIT at $18.00 US has enough of everything you'll need to easily do to the inside of your door: http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SSK&dept=11 I recommend getting a satin black. There's some critical prep work to be done with the other chemicals 1st: 1. Use a wire brush (I like SS, but regular steel is OK to.) to remove all the rust that will come off. If you have an electric drill & about a 30mm/1-1/4" or 40mm/1-1/2" diameter steel brush that you can reach in there with, it will go quick. When done, vacuum all the rust debris out. 2. Clean the surface with POR15's MARINE-CLEAN to thorougly remove all trace of oil & grease from the surface. You can proceed directly to the next step: 3. Kill all the old rust by brushing on METAL-READY. METAL-READY is a phosphoric acid & zinc based rust passivator. It actually chemically converts the rust to stable Zinc Phosphate. You need to keep the surface wet with METAL-READY for 10-15 minuites (see instructions). Then thoroughly rinse all the METAL-READY off to neutralize the phosphoric acid. The surface needs to thoroughly dry. At least several hours drying time should be allowed, altho drying can be accelerated by a hair dryer set on low. 4. Brush on the POR15 encapsulating paint. A 1/2" chip brush is supplied with the kit, it works surprisingly well. I just use them, never needed a foam brush. POR15 cures by absorbing moisture from the air. When the coat is barely sticky to the touch (6 to 12 hours depending on humidity), apply another coat. I've had best luck with 3 coats for an inclosed area like inside a door, & 4 coats for something exposed like a chassis. POR15 self levels amazingly well. A brush coat will flow out better than most spray coats. CAUTION: Once it's fully cured, nothing will adhere to POR15 with out the surface being scuff sanded first. Also once it's cured, nothing will wash it off. If you get it on you & don't see it in time, you'll wear it for several days. 5. (Only if the surface is exposed to sunlight). When the last POR15 coat is barely sticky, brush or spray on 2 coats of CHASSIS-BLACK. It blocks UV away from the POR15 encapsulating paint & gives a nice satin black finsh. Before it cures, you can clean up POR15 with lacquer thinner. I suspect acetone might work but have't tried. Once the container of POR15 is opened, it will begin to cure. Especially if it's opened on a humid day. If you're going to reseal the can, make sure to wash all POR15 out of the can's lid groove & the lid's lip. Then put a piece of freezer zipper bag over the can & press the lid into place. The plastic will keep the lid from being glued to the can. If the lid every gets stuck down, the only way you're going to open that can is by cutting the top off with a can opener(been there more than once)..
I used POR-15 on the driveshaft and steering linkage of my truck well over a year ago and there has been no reappearance of rust. In general I thought is was very good but it is messy & sticky, and I agree with the comments above that once a can is opened it is very hard to keep it from curing further (I was not successful in spite of adding plastic wrap under the lid). The finish is smooth. I've since read about a competitive product called Rust Bullet (available via the web) that has UV inhibitors so it does not need a topcoat. I've not tried this yet. Also, I have seen multiple advertisements for a product called CounterAct to electrostatically protect against the formation of rust. Seems intriguing but I've not tried that one yet either. They have a website at www.counteractrust.com. Lou
I've seen a couple of restoration shops punch holes in opposite sides of the top & then screw about a 1/4" smooth galvanized (not hot galvanized) lag bolt into the holes to seal them. Claim they keep it good for months.
Yes, they canship UPS. (But, probably ground) Zinc Anodes are always a good idea. But, they have to be in electrical contact with the base metal.
