Kluber grease... Or?

Klübersynth HB 72-102

This product offers you the following advantages for this particular application:

- Reliable function due to long service life also at high temperatures
- Noise-dampening effect

This is why u need this product. Otherwise you will hear chatter and something will break. Pay the money.

 

any high temp grease will do. What you want is the higher temps stuff that does not thin out with heat so that the parts don't rattle and make audible noise. I have used marine wheel bearing grease, kluber, and other high temp industrial machine greases and they all work as long as the triple seals do not leak oil into the clutch pak. use about 250 grams not the 180 in the WSM

 

How about a good synthetic grease?

 

The grease is available from Ricambi America:

$53 will give you enough for two flywheels!
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=261146



Also, follow the advice of Dave Helms, a very experienced Ferrari technician:

"The grease is what does most of the balancing. Upon first start up you will notice how out of balance the whole thing is until the grease moves around to the light side.
Light scraping and scuffing is no problem. Make sure you identify the source of the leaks and address them. I have yet to find one that requires the replacement of the large Oring. A common leak point is where the rear bearing hub is rivited to the can. I have found that this can be sealed well with "wicking" locktite if it is well cleaned. Heat up with a propane torch numerous times to wick the grease out of the seam, cleaning with brake cleaner after it has cooled.
The factory had us change the amount of grease put back in. I believe they had us put in 220 Grams (I will have to check my notes at the shop) rather than the amount stated in the manual. FNA frowned on us repairing these but when they were on eternal backodrer from the factory we got the nod and the update on the grease amount. I have always used the grease that is provided by FNA as the viscosity and temp. range is quite critical in this application. Great time to check how flat the disc surface is and have it machined now if required.
As stated above, what a filthy job!

Dave"
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I only got the fna kluber grease. it came in a can that was not labled. what we need to do is dispell the kluber myth. does anyone or would you do the research on the kluber specs and post it? Then all anyone has to do is get grease with a common viscosity or more and similar heat range. empirically I have doen this as every grease I have used has worked as I posted above. I bet that redline will work fine. the key is to get the shafts leak free.

 

Why not just call up Kluber directly? (800) 447-2238 I did a search on their website with the product number and it found it. www.kluber.us Either that or get it from Dan.

 

I did that job, it's a messy job.
I used the kluber crap. No problems to date, and the flywheel is quite.
ricambi america has it.

 

I looked on the kluber web site. I always thought kluber grease was some kind of special grease. It's just high temp grease manufactured by Kluber Lubrication. They do publish the specs. I bet it is similar to the redline product or other high temp throwout bearing grease.

 

I didn't go as far as looking at the specs, but did you have a look at them Richard?

 

Hey FBB, would it be possible to make a flywheel that had variable ballast, such as fluid that could be pumped out when you are going for a high top end speed, then pumped back in when you need the ability to make gear shift changes?

 

I bought "Kluber grease" in a Ferrari wrapped package from Ricambi thinking it was the real stuff. When I opened the container it was White and every other time I have seen the original stuff it has been light grey. Some grease technicos tell me a greases' color is supposed to be almost a pedegree signifying its properties. I am concerned that I didn't get the real McCoy - is there any insight that can be shed on this?

Note the color of the grease is grey from the as removed part and white coming from the can with Ferrari labels from Ricambi. Daniel insists his stuff is the genuine article.
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I did. I don't know what it compares to. If Daniel has it at Ricambi I will probably get it from him.
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you got the real thing. Dan would never sell fakes...

Base oil / thickener ester / polyurea
Service temperature range*, approx. – 40 to 180
color beige
Drop point, DIN ISO 2176, °C > 240
Consistency grade, DIN 51 818, NLGI 2
Apparent dynamic viscosity, viscosity grade** L / M
Water resistance, DIN 51 807/1, 3 h / 90 °C, rating 0 – 90
Corrosion prevention, DIN 51 802, (SKF-Emcor), test


note color

 

I have no clue. I ain't that smart so i welded my wheel as one unit dropped out a bunch of weight balanced it, and race it. It has been over 5 years and my engine and gearbox are just fine.

Real Kluber is white. Grey is from oil contamination. See I told you just about any hi temp grease will work as i have personally attested. Kluber is nothing special except expensive.

 

I'll second that.

 

I found the grease that I have used very successfully instead of kluber and it is cheap like 10 bucks a tube or something like that. If you can't find it I have plenty. Email me [email protected]
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I have had a lot of trouble with noise and hard cold starting. I am going to try Superior Industries Si-123, a truly high tech, high temp, grease. http://www.superior-industries.com/tech_data_page_65.html Will report.

 

You are absolutly right. As many Ferrari bla bla and mythes, there is nothing special about the Kluber grease. Just an ordinary good grease as there are dozens. I think as you look in brands of industrial greases you find easily a grease 10 x better specs. (we use at work a ceramic grease that reaches up to 1100 °C as for example ).

 

These guys in the UK sell Kluber regrease kits. They include o-rings, bolts, and bearings. Might be an option worth considering if you want the parts to do the whole job.

http://www.maddogclutches.co.uk/

 

that's where I got my stuff. Andrew was good to deal with.

sjd

 

Why would this issue cause hard cold starting? The ref sensor is on the balancer at the other end of the motor?? Please explain?

 

Wow. A thread from the waaaaay back machine.