One of Kumor's knock tools is on eBay right now:...
One of Kumor's knock tools is on eBay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-maserati-lamborghini-Knock-Off-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQitemZ4593417164QQrdZ1 Regards, Kerry
Kerry, thanks for the information. I have since spoke to Mike and his tool looks like the one I purchased from Blaum tools in Forida that is shown on my site. He has coated his with a heat treated coating. He said, it does wear out from the torque. How then, would I replace the coating? I found after many attempts with different coatings that tough leather does take the high torque without breaking down. And can be replaced easily. The leather on mine covers all surfaces of the spinner and there is no metal to metal contact Again, thanks for your help. Sarto
I would not use a copper hammer for removal of KOs, copper will damage the KOs it's too hard. I recently purchased some 3 ear KOs for my 512 and tried a rubber coated mallet, it couldn't create enough force to tighten the KO. I purchased a 5lb lead hammer from McFadden an industrial supplier for $20, also bought a 3lb lead hammer at harbor Freight for $12 to keep in the car in case of a flat and it works well also. The lead is what the factory tool is and does not damage the KO, I have taken them on and off quite a few times with no damage at all not even a scratch. I had the octagonal nuts on before and they were a pain to remove, it took a long pipe breaker bar to get leverage to remove them and they totally torqued the front wheels turning them and putting severe pressure on the suspension, you need a helper to stand on the brakes toremove them with a breaker bar on the octagonal nuts. The 3 eared come off easily with a few good hits with the lead hammer.
Thanks for your input. I tried a lead hammer and it does work. My panasport wheels are to close to the spinner -see pictures- and at my age my hammer aim leaves a lot to be desired. I ended up hitting my wheel. Torque should be the main concern as over tighting posses a real problem. With a hammer there is no way to know how much torque you just beat on. I have spun my tires trying to remove them. I over torqued them. My wheels require 160 to 180 ft/lbs of torque. I torqued it on with a borrowed torque wrench from my mechanics shop to get the feel of what it takes to hit 180 ft/lbs of torque. I think that I will be able to offer my socket with a 24" 250 ft/lb torque wrench, with a warrenty, that works in both directions and has a ratchet on it. You can keep the lever in the most effective angle for max leverage. Even without the torque wrench, my socket has 12 position and does the same thing. I'm hoping to keep the total cost for both under $150.00. Sarto
Edward 96 GTS, You can read my earlier posts or you can try this site. Let me know if you still can not see the pictures. ENTER THE SITE http://homepage.mac.com/sarto1/PhotoAlbum6.html Click the pictures to enlarge or use the slide show. The pictures show the other socket that I purchased that scratched and marked the spinners. CONTACT ME AT; [email protected] Does anyone have a old beat up socket that I can set the socket leather and make sure that your spinners will fit my tool. I can send a deposit by PayPal and send it right back and if you want a socket i'll discount it. Sarto
I remember the thread over a year ago about the Napolis knock-off tool and I saved that one in my bookmarks, how does this tool compare with the one that Napolis posted about ? Seems to me I would prefer the one Napolis posted and it actually was on my xmas list, I printed out their page about a month ago handed it to my wife and she said "ok, I will call them", now this knock off tool comes up...decisions, decisions, any suggestions ?
I purchased one from Mike Kumor off eBay earlier in the year but have not tried it yet. It looks good but I am not sure about the rubber. I may add strips of leather (cut up belt pieces). Andrew
I've got the Kumor tool as well and 3/4" drive torque wrench and will be putting all four wheels back on in a few days...will see how the rubber holds up then and add leather as needed. You can get an inexpensive 4-lb. lead hammer from Hendrix wire wheel and it won't hurt the KO's at all. I use small firm blows until it comes loose...if you try to hit real hard it could hit spokes or body instead...
The good thing about the one I use is that it mimics hammering on/off which seems to unstick them easier. We've used ours for years without problems. Also the delrin is completely non mar and transfers more force.
Mikeyr, I saw the spinner remover that Napolis posted. That will work and cost every penny of the $325.00 to manufacture. To compare my tool to Napolis's Custom Fab tool, you will need to hear a story. After dinging my new wheels and spinners with a hammer I found a tool that looks like Mike's at Seaport Mold. I got mine at Blaum Tools and it was metal to metal and marked my spinners. I heard storys about the tips bending and/or breaking off. Mine is manufactured to be very strong. Mike's to his credit has coated his with a hot dip rubber. He said that it does not hold up to the torque after awhile. Later, how would I replace the coating? I tried several dips myself and after awhile they all failed. The edges of the metal cuts through where the torque was applied, accept the tough English leather held up and did not break down from the torque. My leather can be easily replaced by removing the brass screws that hold them in place. The Napolis tool will do the same thing protecting the metal but I don't know how they gauge the torque. Torque should be the main concern as over tighting posses a real problem getting them off. With a hammer there is no way to know how much torque you just beat on. Over torqued wheels can't be good. I have spun my tires trying to remove them. I grossly over torqued them. My wheels require 160 to 180 ft/lbs of torque. I torqued it on and off with a borrowed torque wrench from my mechanics shop. That gave me a "torque memory" and the feel for the force it takes to hit 180 ft/lbs of torque. I did it with a 18" breaker bar and they come off as easily as they had gone on by using the recomended torque. I liked the idea about a socket were I did not have to use a hammer and did not scratch or mark anything. My finished knockoff is chrome plated, leather wrapped, brass hardware, 1 inch hex shaft, pressed through the steel plate so the weld is not the only thing holding it on, and can take high torque. An 18" breaker bar, 1/2 drive and a 12 point socket that allows me to keep the bar in the sweet spot for max leveage. The 3/4 square hole on the other sockets only allow for 4 positions and not allowing that "remembered torque" cause of the ackward angles. A ratcheted breaker bar or torque wrench would be even better. The 1" socket and the breaker bar or torque wrench is supplied by you guys, I supply the knockoff spinner wrench. I ended up putting more into the knockoff wrench than I thought I would, but still for a lower cost then $150.00 or $325.00. ($115.00 sale price for either size) Also my tool will fit in a glove box. I am working on getting a warrantied, 24", 250 ft/lbs torque wrench, 1/2" driver with a ratchet in both directions. some only torque one way, not good for left and rightside spinners. I'm hoping to package both for about $150.00. I'll let you know later. I'm looking for one spinner for or that fits the Ferrari, Maseraati and the Lamborghinni. My two sizes fit the smaller Lotus and the larger Cobra and early Corvette. I have been told that it will fit others but I want to, before my next pressing see it for myself. Assumptions will not work. Had enough? Mikeyr, thanks Sarto Have a merry Xmas!!
Someone, I think on Tom Yang's board, said they replaced the rubber with thick copper and it worked fine for torquing. The leather sounds like a better and easier idea...theres a tandy shop a few blocks away. If I had it to do over I'd spring for one of the tools like Napolis has...I've got around $250 in my Kumor socket and torque wrench and still use a lead hammer to get the KO's off.
Spook64, I did do a copper clad socket wrench that I used in place of my current leather clad one. It was for heavy use by auto shops and tire shops that use air impact set to the right torque. Copper is an excellant soft material that does not crush under torque or scratch the chrome. Leather is the only other material that does not crush and protects the wheel parts and will fit in a glove box. Leather is for guys that don't toss and bang the tool around all day. The tire shops liked it because they did not get in trouble for dinging and scratching the wheels and spinners using a hammer. And most cases over torqued the spinner. You can not check the torque unless you use a knockoff socket along with a torque wrench. Sarto For pictures ENTER THE SITE http://homepage.mac.com/sarto1/PhotoAlbum6.html Click the pictures to enlarge or use the slide show. The pictures show the other socket that I purchased that scratched and marked the spinners. CONTACT ME AT; [email protected]
I just reread all of my posts and I just hate it when my fingers can't spell. After review there are things that I want to add. To all that swings a dinging hammer. To get the spinner on or off, place the breaker bar or a torque wrench on the knock off spinner wrench, parallel to the ground and use your weight and bounce if you have too. Then re-adjust to parallel and finish the torque. Without a torque wrench you need to get that "torque memory" by using a borrowed torque wrench to get the feel for the force it takes to get the correct torque for your car. That way you will not have to use a hammer to loosen the spinner. If you did, then you know that it was over torque. Even if you did over torque, the spinner socket still should loosen the spinner by adding an extension to the breaker bar. The factory torque specs should keep your wheels on. And should come off with about same force used to tighten the spinners, again starting parallel to the ground. My 1" hex shaft with a 1" 12 point socket makes it easy to keep the socket in the parallel position (sweet spot) for the best leverage. One more thing, my price of $115.00 is comparably low because the design cuts the manufacturing cost and I was able to still add all of the chrome, leather, brass hardware and the design enhancements for that price. And good night to all, Sarto
Sarto, Thanks for the info. I have the same wrench that you do with the square 3/4" hole, except that the contact surfaces are covered with thick rubber. Your wrench design illustrates how I could add leather padding to the Kumor design....tap a couple of small holes at each leather mounting point and attach it with screws. I didn't see a pic of your copper-clad one; however, the leather would be much easier to install and totally adequate for owner use. I'll mark the thread and post a pic after I've added leather to my Kumor wrench.
Hi Spook64, If you can attached the leather to the round designed wrench that would extend the life of the protection. I grounded off the sharp edges of the metal where the leather hits, that stops the metal from cutting through the leather. The leather will not break down under the torque. It was too expensive to do that to the round design, hense my redesigned spinner wrench costs less and works better. My copper design is not shown and has to be pressed into shape to fit the wrench. Sarto
the FML used to run ads for such a knock off tool, costing around 250-300 bucks for quite a few years....does anyone have a link to that site?
How about the metal battery hold down bracket? I am having a heck of a time trying to find one for a Daytona. It is the one with the holes about an inch or two in-board from the end on the longer side of the rectangle. I have tried all of the usual and non-usual sources.. So far no dice. Thought this would be an easy part to source. Anyone purchase one recently? Drew Altemara
Our mechanic here in Australia made up a relatively crude one for tightening the KO on our 365GT. Can anyone confirm if the ones available in the US are 'handed' (e.g. one for left hand side, one for right hand side) or do you need to buy two - one for each side. Also, I've not been able to find any details on what the appropriate torque figure should be for these. Any suggestions? (Grant - we've got to stop meeting like this!) Andrew Stevens
Hi Andrew Stevens, My wrench is set up that it works in both direction, on or off, the same way with just a 18" breaker bar. And the torque wrench that I am working on is ratcheted and is reversible. Some torque wrenches only work is one direction and is not good for left and right hand threads spinners. My Lotus torque is 160 to 180 ft/lbs of torque. That may be a standard for KO's but I would try and find the specs for you car anyway. For pictures ENTER THE SITE http://homepage.mac.com/sarto1/PhotoAlbum6.html CONTACT ME AT; [email protected]
I had one made , copied exactly the other one, painted it balck and you cant tell the difference between the original and the copy. Do you the proper diomensions to have it made? I may even have an extra one, not sure. PM me please