koenig competition 1.000 hp

I don´t know the video you have seen but the sound of the exhaust is magnific. there is no silencer or something else in, only the turbochargers two 70 mm tubes to the end and at the end like you see on the pictures at the beginning of this thread two 100 mm endpipes. also from the wastegates one 40 mm tube, nothing more. it sounds like a race car more than 4000 rpm. so in town never go more than 2000 rpm because of the police.

 

BlueBiturbo,

this seems to be my car, but I`m not sure.

the steering wheel, the seats and the centre consol under the monitor is different, but the same seats I bought from koenig. the mirros are also different. on my car there are the originals, but the dealer in berlin told in his advertisement of the car something from formula 1 mirrors and the mirrors on your pics seems to be so.

but the front spoiler ( from a 355 ) is the same with the lip made of special wood, also the engine compartement seems to be equal. left under the steering wheel there is the actuation for the fire extinguisher system ( the red box ) .

so I think it is my car. do you have some more pics? how much was the car for sale by koenig?

at the front axle there is a brake system from a F50, the rear brake is an AP.

I bought this car in february 2005 from a dealer in berlin. but after a short time the diff broke and since then the car is standing. koenig sold this car at the end of 2003 to a factory owner. he is producing coffee brewer, mixer and other kitchen appliances. I bought the car with a lot of defects and errors and before I could drive it I had to replace all bearings from the primary gearbox ( from the clutch down to the gearbox ) because it makes horrible noices, also the clutch had to be replaced. the adjustment from the injections is more than bad. during acceleration under 2300 rpm the engine is stuttering and smoking black ( to much fuel ) but from 3400 rpm it is like a rocket. no 150 hp or more bike can follow. it makes fabulous fun when it is running. but only when....there are not so much brake downs. that is the reason just now I´m fixing the complete gearbox with much better material, also I want to put on a self programmed combined injection- ignitonsystem ( the australian MOTEC or the german TRIJEKT ). so I can adjust it all during driving with a laptop. but this will take a long time and I´m not sure that I will drive this car in 2008. also I have to make other things to earn some money to live.

on the last picture you can see willy koenig standing beside of his "baby"

I try to put some more pics in here the next few days

 

Dan Osib,

the sounds on both videos are very bad and has nearly nothing to do with the real sound

 

after a long time of working on this car it is nearly finished now.
nearly? there are much more "little things" to be done

so because of such long time a lot of things are not working right now. so I checked and found some unusual things, may be someone could help here?

1) in the workshop manual it says that there is a K-jetronic inside ( or 2 of those ) - the fuel regulator is inside the "quantitative divider" ( sorry, don´t know the english word ), also it has a warm-up regulator and an auxiliary air valve. but mine has an outside fuel pressure regulator for each side, so it is a KE jetronic. in the spare parts catalog from 87 those fuel pressure regulators are listed under the picture numberTAV 12/12 ( 125136 ). one regulator was not opening anymore and so I get too high pressure. same regulator is in the mercedes 560/126

on the TAV 13 there is a K-jetronic.

so does anyone knows when they changed or upgradet from the K-jetronic to the KE jetronic?

2) the injectors on my car left side and right side are different. I tested all after cleaning and they deliver all the same fuel +/- not even 1 ppm for about 30 seconds. but 6 of them are made of brass and 6 are made of steel. the brass ones have the bosch number 0 437 502 047, which are still available, the steel ones have the number 0 437 582 010 what I can not find anymore. does everyone has more infos of those steel ones? also there is stamped on the hexagonal 12 mm on the brass ones 090/206 and on the steel ones 946/226. does anyone knows what this means?

I can not find any information

thanks for technical right answers or some links where I can read.

have a nice sunday after massa gets second in japan today
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why should I replace those when they all work fine, very fine?

thanks for the statements until now, but there are no answers I asked about

 

I just have let made the complete crown and pinion and the input shaft made of material called here:

18 CrNiMo7/6

should be the best material the guys who did it told me. they are also doing same for the porsche race cars and bmw

the inputshaft is not made of 2 parts as the original one, it is made in 1 part.

the gears for the main gearbox ( so from the clutch down to the inputhaft, sorry please for not knowing the right english word ) is just in production made of 42 CrMoV and will be finished I think end of november.



RQtetto: was nützen dir die PS wenn sooooo viele schleicher auf der autobahn unterwegs sind?

max. speed just now I was driving here on the autobahn has been about 355 km/h, then the rpm-limiter was in action.

but this has been about 6 years ago. since then I´m fixing this car and I hope next spring I will drive again - I hope

meanwhile I installed about 50 sensors for temperature from each cylinder, from the engine oil, the gearbox oil before and after the additional radiator, the charged air from the turbos, the oilpressure from engine and gearbox, the fuel pressure left and right bank and some more. but it takes long time of work and between I have to earn my daily bread.

I hope to have time a little to put in again some pictures here

 

because of the touchscreen I want to install I try to put this screen there where there is the oiltemperature, the fuel gauge and the clock with the odometer. for this I put the fuelgauge now into the left door panel as you see on the picture. a glass will come on later to avoid dirt coming in.

first I wanted to put the touchscreen there where there is the original speedometer and rpm-meter, but this for now I want to let in original conditon
the oiltemperature will be meassured with my additional sensors. the control bulb for the rear fog is now right of the instruments below the control of the open hoods front and rear. where to put the odometer just now I don´t know. even I think that this odometer is not a really important thing that would be needed because most of those are disconnected to show a lower mileage.
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not really right melvok:

this is often a discussion between me and the tuev. most testing engineers thinks that the law says that an odometer has to be inside.

but the law says in § 57 note 3:

there MAY be ( not MUST be ) inside an odometer in combination with a speedometer what has to show the driven track plus/minus 4 %

so it is not a must for such an odometer. and up to now without often some useless discussion I had no problems.

the question is also what does the legislator understand under "in combination with... "

I understand under combination a "normal speedometer with inside odometer" but the TR has a separate odometer. so in my eyes it is not a combination then?

but I think that this is here not common interest because the rules are not equal in all countries