Leak at inner passenger side axle shaft boot...

While changing my engine and gear oil on my new to me 1987 328 GTS, I discovered a leak at the inner passenger side axle shaft boot. The boot itself appears to be in good condition however, both clamps are loose as the boot can be easily rotated unlike the other side. Is it just a matter of installing new clamps or is there a seal between the end of the axle and the diff/trans that needs to be replaced as well? I did not see a seal in any of the parts diagrams. Anyone have a better diagram?

Thanks!

Jon

 

Jon, depending upon how long those clamps were loose, you may have gotten dirt and debris inside that boot that left unchecked could result in cv joint wear and damage. Not sure if the area can be checked/cleaned/repacked with the axle still in the car, but I would have that inspected before tightening the clamps and calling it a day.

 

I found this image on the Ricambi website. I hope it is OK to post it!

Does the end labeled 4 on the axle shaft connect to the inner/differential side or the outer brake side?

Is there a connection/opening in that end to the differential so that differential fluid can drip out or is the fluid I am seeing coming strictly from the boot?

If I remove the 6 bolts on each end of the axle, will the axle come out in one piece as shown in the upper part of the diagram? Or is there more to it than that?

Anyone have better pictures of this?

Thanks!

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The bolts are very tight and they are allen head so can strip if you are not really careful, but yes remove the bolts and the axle assembly comes off. You need various extensions and a breaker bar to remove the bolts. The end 4 attaches to the diff, the axle looks like it could install either, but there is an arrow cast in the shaft that indicates which side faces the diff.

It is possible/probable the leak is from the differential seal, which requires the axle to be removed to replace. Hill Engineering makes a tool that helps do the new seal install. The seals are item 2 in your diagram.

Here is a link that details the procedures for the items noted.

http://birdman308.com/service/cv_joints/cv_joint.htm

There are various fchat threads that also elaborate on this. Sometimes things are stuck, bolts strip, and the seal is tough to get out etc., but in the end people do the cv boots and seals successfully as home handyman. I followed the procedures and reviewed threads and posted some myself on all this.

 

Great writeup by birdman308. I just picked up 2 cans of PB blaster and will start that process. I will order a new boot, some grease, new clamps and a seal. Anything else I need?

 

It is also possible no one properly sealed the splines and bolt for the output drive flange and trans oil is leaking into the CV joint via the splines or bolt. The mounting of the CV to the drive flange was never meant to seal this oil.

If the last person used OE clamps some people seem to have trouble installing them correctly and it could be as simple as that. I love the OE clamps and use nothing but them but they must be tight.

 

Item 2 is called out as a bearing. I can not find a seal. Any suggestions?

I think I may have found it - part #125078

 

Yes that is the correct seal part number. It is in the differential exploded diagram. My mistake, it has been some time since I did the repair and that bearing in the diagram looked like the seal.

Keep in mind that the seal wears a slight groove on the hub, you lightly wet sand the hub surface to maximize the success of a new seal actually sealing. But a new seal will not always correct the leak. There is a repair sleeve that slips on the hub that is available.

 

You might want this seal install tool.

https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/tools/seal-tools/st-03

It makes the seal install really simple and precise. The birdman details the drivers side replacement, where the seal casing can be removed and the seal replaced on the bench. The passenger side seal is done right in the differential case in situ. This tool was essential for that side install.



You might also need a hub puller to get the hub off, there is usually lots of silicon sealer in there that can make the hub not just slide right off the splines.

 

My tech , last year replaced the inner drive shaft seals .Said they were weeping .Been bone dry ever since
208 GT 4 77 .

We were or his instructions were from me to tidy up all the weeps / seeps and leaks .Needless to say I had the gear shift seal done with fresh g box and engine sump gaskets and the cam seals + covers .Kinda job lot .Stuff like this accumulated .

Nothing unusual they go with time .

All depends on your attitude to towards your garage floor .

 

Thanks for the info. I have a variety of hub and gear pullers, so I am probably good there. I will find out when I get in there!

The seal install tools looks simple enough. As much as I like collecting tools, I will probably make my own tool for the single use it will get (I hope!) and since I also have the capability to do so. And like the challenge!

 

Yes, you need a bolt that is the same thread as the bolt that affixes the hub to the shaft, and some sort of cup or a large washer that is just under the size of the seal edge to make the tool.

 

In case you need it, here is the part number for the SKF repair sleeve for the hub. Depends how much of a groove the old seal has worn into the hub. I was able to source one on Amazon (it comes with the installation tool), but never ended up using it.

SKF 99177 Speedi-Sleeves

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As a followup with some questions. I managed to get the 12 bolts out that hold the axle shaft/cv joint assembly fairly easily using PB blaster over several days followed by 3' of extensions and a breaker bar. Now that I have the shaft assembly out, I have a few issues.

1) After removing the circlip, the cv joint does not want to come off of the splined axle. Before I break out the persuader, any suggestions?

2) I am also replacing the seal. I removed the bolt holding the hub to the differential but the hub will not come off of its splined shaft. It will move about 1/8" on the splines and then stops like it is hitting something. Any suggestions here?

Thanks in advance for the help! I will get through this!

 

Re question 2 The bolt is all that holds the hub to the differential. There is usually lots of old sealer that makes it not just slide off, and it can just be tight. You can use a three arm puller to get it off.

Re 1 I am not certain on that, but I am pretty sure the circlip was all the held it together from my recollections. But best that someone else confirm that.

Great news that you got all the bolts off without incident.

 

I managed to get the hub off. Turns out it was old sealer holding it on.

New question: how deep should the new seal go? Is there a lip inside that stops the seal? Below is a picture of my old seal - I have not pulled it yet. Birdman308's writeup covers the drivers side and states that the depth of the seal in the DSC on that side is critical. As for the passenger side, he only writes to press the new one directly in. Maybe I am over complicating this! Just want to do it once!
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There should be an inner lip in the casting that would act as a stop when putting in the new seal. The new seal should be pressed in until it hits that lip. It would be about 4mm inset from the face of the casting.

 

Perfect - thanks!!

 

Did you use these on your car? Any words of advise on the install ?


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It is really simple, the sleeve fits on the hub, and you use the tool included to tap it on. Brilliant and simple design. Fit perfectly.

 

you wouldn't happen to have a photo would you? i assume that the shoulder part of the Speedi-Sleeve goes on to the Diff flange first and stops at the angled portion of the flange?

 

No photos. Yes, shoulder down, tap on the cup with a rubber mallet which will press the sleeve on til it can go no further. You barely can tell its there once installed. Maybe put some loctite on the flange surface, but mine was a good snug fit and that seemed redundant.