I started dying my 328 seats and evey other leather part in my car last night - Thanks for Gianluca for setting me on the right path. Here are some before & after pcitures. The results are simply amazing - Can't wait to finish & get them in!!! Also have some new carpet going in. Here is a stripped seat next to the finished seat : Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great article here that was very helpful : http://www.ferrariclub.com/faq/leatherdye.html The only part that didn't work for me was using a rag to apply the dye - I didn't get nearly enough coverage that way - Once I switched to a paint brush, it went on great! The worst part was by far the stripping of the old dye - I think I lost a few years of my life due to laquer thinner inhalation - That's ok, they were bad years anyway. Leatherique & Goerge = Great Sponsor. Image Unavailable, Please Login
how does the re-dye hold up? it sounds like it goes on pretty thick - won't it crack fairly easily? doody.
Somone who has had it on for a while can respond - From what I read, using the oil and keeping the seats in good shape should prevent cracking - It isn't any thicker than the original dye.
i have to say - the stripped seat looks GREAT! can you seal 'em up and just keep them natural like that? it'd be a neat look. doody.
That's funny - My neighbors have been watching my progress and one also liked the look of the stripped seat. It's nice and soft that way also.
Not hard once you get the hang of applying the dye. Stripping everything took the longest - All the hard work is in the prep. It took about 4 hours per chair to get the seats down to the leather. Then you let them dry and then you apply the oil. After a couple of days, you apply the pristine clean. The next day you can apply the surface prep. I would give yourself 2 weeks to do the prject right - Just so you have sufficient time to let the seats dry in between steps.
slag - i would love to see more close-ups of the stripped seat. i've always wanted to understand what was creasing and cracking in these things - the leather itself or the dyes. some pics would be educational towards that end. empircal-boy, mr. doody.
No Problem, I'll take some pics tonight - I can tell you though, it is the dye - Once I got it stripped down to the bare leather, there was no cracks, but as you can see in the pictures above of the driver seat before, there was some cracking in the bottom cusion. If you look at the before stripping pic of the bottom cusion, there are some cracks - This is the same seat I re-dyed - Notice there are no cracks in the re-dyed seats - It really does look like it just rolled out of the factory in Italy - I am really impressed!
I'm glad my article helped you. There's an updated version posted at www.fca-se.org/conc_leather.htm which includes pics of my 308QV's interior after it was redyed.
Thanks Mike - I can't thank you enough for that very thorough article! I not only referred to it, but it was my "bible". I must have read that thing 5 times and then referred to it numerous times during the process. Thanks so much for taking the time to write it - Some pics with the article would be a nice touch! I followed your instructions to a T, and owe that article a lot for my results.
Slag. Could you tell us what color code was used for the dye. My 328 seats are tan and look closer to the original color of yours. Did you change to a lighter color?
Very, very interesting thread. Slag, from your pictures, I have the impression that there are some "clouds" in your dye and that a second coat would be needed to have something uniform. Am I wrong ? (maybe the clouds are in my own screen...). Do not forget to post more close-up's. I have also placed my order with George to re-dye my 1992 348 ts. Will keep you posted about the results. Mike, thanks for your article. It's gonna be also my cook book ! Philippe.
I can't remember the dye # - I have it at home, I'll post tonight. Not sure what you mean about "clouds". That could be the reflection of the lights in the garage. The dye looks flawless in real life. The tan color is 3218 - Saddle. Blue F-cars often are a lighter color than that - Crema (now called Magnolia). If you look in my profile, you can see the interior was pretty light before & then they are even lighter now. I think after awhile the original Crema color faded to the light yellow seen in the before pics.
Glad to see your HEART started again. Had me worried there. Your text is great and THANKS Mike C. for your article. The 1st time you: STRIP WITH LACQUER THINNER SAND WITH SANDPAPER on your pride and joy it will set you thinking. Mike's write up is the best I have seen as far as HOW TO. The information on our website is generic execpt for the information on "ELIZA". Being I have been doing this since the EARLY 1960's it is no big deal, BUT the 1st time I touched a car that was NOT MINE that was a big deal. How long will is last? As long as the normal finish of any surface dyed product. How do you maintain the finish? About 3 months AFTER the dye work just wipe it off with Prestine clean and a SOFT cloth. The application of Rejuvinator Oil should be done about 6 mo after the dye work. That should do it. There WILL BE some DYE TRANSFER in the cleaning process, that is normal. It will be the same as with any factory done surface dye. DO NOT PANIC. If I can be of any help just call! George P.
Thanks George - Please ignore my voice mail & email as I finally got it right. You haven't been around the last few days - Attending a show? Anyway, I need to give you a call as I am out of oil. Thanks!
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