left bank shut down

ECU power for that 5-8 bank controller would be where I would look first. Good luck there

 

I had exactly the same thing a few years ago. It turned out to be the wire to the cam sensor on that bank had come loose.

 

I would check the fuse box for that bank - simple precaution.

Drew

 

+1 & +1

Check all the simple things first --- from the behavior that you describe, I would not be at all surprised if something (like a connector / sensor) simply vibrated itself loose.

Also, is your car a US-spec with cats and O2 sensors ?

 

I've also experienced on US cars that the fuel pump injests the rubber feet that the fuel pump sits on. The rubber degrades with todays fuel and when they fall apart they are injected in the tank by the fuel pump which lowers the fuel pressure on the affected side. This side is then shut down.
Very easy to check to fuel pressure on the rail on either side....if low that side will be shut down by the system.

 

Is this first time, or happened intermittently before? How long was car sitting beforehand?

 

Any smoke from tailpipes or warning lights on dash?

 

what were temperature readings, if you recall?

 

What have you done since? Try running engine again, check electrical/mechanical/fuel systems, awaiting service appointment?

 

Question for mechanic is whether or not engine went into "protection" mode. Lack of warning lights suggests it did not. Good luck.

 

since an early euro non cat version, it is-essentially, a single membrane overboost valve, twin nozzled 288 motor....turbos same, gates the same, lots of the shared parts are shown in Parts book...the early euro edition
That said, this is more straightforward than it probably seems so to most...

First assumption-and it is a BIG one-the fuse panel's 7-layer mylar construction has NOT started the delamination and decay process!
Since the car-as stated-strarts and runs OK for a period until presumably a particular temperature threshold is reached, we may assume that all circuit's integrities can be assumed satisfacory and functional

The swithced power up keyed circuits all worked-right?
ALL the logic serviced relay ground throws controlled by the ECUs apparently worked(car starts and runs!)
Once run and warmed a bit, A SIDE(bank, whatever...)-the one with the tach drive circuit-usually associated with the coils being SWITCHED on via a ground signal thrown by THAT ECU to a relay ON the fuse panel,as a result of a 720 degree logic circuit driven by a preprogrammed reluctance signature-without which the computer(s) thinks engine is, or is NOT turning over, and thus, there will be NO grounds provided coils AND no grounds for the relays grounded by these power circuits from relays on fuse panel for the nozzle busses and coils..

There are 2 PAIRS of reluctors which drive this signature-this is a single port, sequential, port EFI system(log speed density with primary load sensor the MAP sensor and secondarily the TPS sensor) Air temp and water temp aid in mapping as well but are only really mode inputs...
these sensors are best monitored using a slow, analog, dual trace o-scope...since failure occurs after warm up, this is a siren that signal generation at one of these has dropped...incidentally, reluctors located on cams are gap/clearance sensitive and are supposed to be set to a spec, as opposed to bell housoing 90 degree drivers fed off of the flywheel pins(4)...
Id bet a frosty that 1 of the pair on the dropping side is at best intermittant in fumction...the scope never lies...

 

I also had this exact failure. Cam position sensor went bad. The good news... common part with 328. Easy fix,... if that's it.

Good luck.

 

But she's running fine again now?

Gr. Martin

 

What was the total cost of the repair Ross if I may ask? Dealer or independent mechanic?

 

My factory trainer told me the F40 is alpha - n...?



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I think that is quite reasonable