The real key is the proper undershirt. Anything looks good over a wifebeater. In other words if you take the time to be well groomed and have a "neat" appearance what you wear should make no difference at all.
But what if you like wearing a suit? Any thoughts on the local "Hong Kong Tailors" places for doing made to measure suits and shirts? I stumbled across this guy on the internet, any thoughts? http://www.pierremohan.com/index.html
Don, the most vital question: Are your jackets fully canvased? The answer must be yes. After that, it's up to you. Ask to see some of their stuff. Look under the lapels to see if there is hand stitching under the lapels, look at the other details and see if you like them or see if other details that are important to you are there. Remember, you are not paying $4,000, and so you won't be getting a $4,000 suit. But figure out what kind of silhouette you are looking for and see if they can do it, or if they don't deviate from their "house" style. See if they can do the kind of shoulder you want (very padded? very soft?). How many fittings? Is the work done in-house (rare) or outsourced? Etc. Local tailors can often be better than the traveling tailors, either from Asia or Savile Row, because stopping in for a fitting is easy as going to their shop 5 minutes away. Much easier to coordinate and get what you want. It's definitely worth checking out and shopping around.
Thanks! Pierre Mohan is only about 10 minutes from my house, so maybe I'll give them a call and check them out.
I did get a few bespoke suits from Saint Laurie in New York and I must say that, even though it's not cheap, you get what you pay for. I was tired of the "designer suits", where you would pay between $1000 and $2000, and it would only last one, maybe two years. Now, I'm not wasting money on the name and the overhead of a fashion house. And, of course, with my figure I need al the help I can get. Now I have almost indestructable fabrics, multiple pants with each jacket, and the details the way I like it. It used to be that 4 buttons on the sleeve would signify a custom suit, but now every suit has it. I opted for a single button (and one that works). Also, there is always a buttonhole in one of the lapels, so I had them add the button under the other lapel (so, you can close the collar). And so on.... Thinking about it, in the long run, it might be cheaper after all. Time will tell.
I wear the same size shirt as you (17 34/35) but am 6'2", 180 lbs, 34 inch waist. Most shirts look like tents on me, apparently people with 17 in. necks should also have 42 inch waists. I've been thinking about getting some custom ones made. Thanks for starting this thread, very informative.
I have a problem with shirts because in order for me to get the neck size I need (17), I could clothe a family of pygmies with the extra material around the waist. It's worse when I buy a shirt in XL, like the one I'm wearing today. Remix, try the pinpoint oxford shirts from Lands End. They're no-iron (GASP!), but if you take them to the cleaners or press them yourself, they look great. They hold up on long days too, and look better at 10pm than anything else I own. I wear them with slacks or khakis and can also put them under a jacket if needed. Probably not the best shirt in the world, but hard to beat for a $35 daily shirt.
I am 21 and in college, but I have to dress for what I do. I have gotten to the point where I really like Nordstroms. In January they had some serious sales so I got a few really good deals. IMO J Banks is made of cheaper materials so I have started to stray away from them, even though my Dad is a big fan of them. I recently got some black Kenneth Cole loafers that are PIMP and they were somehow half off, even though next door they were full retail? I was told by a very successful and very good dresser that you can get away with a less expensive suit if you just get a baller shirt and tie combo. I think that is pretty valid, so thats kind of what I do. I am still far from Neiman Marcus and custom suit shops, but I love to browse their stuff and their seven fold ties...
I like Tom James suits. They will come out to your office, measure you, make you a custom suit and deliever it back in a few weeks. http://www.tomjamesco.com/custsuits/custsuits.asp