I finally finished the lift install today! It took longer than I would have liked ,work got in the way. Image Unavailable, Please Login
From the specs: The floor on which the lift is to be installed must be 4-inch minimum thickness concrete Must have minimum comprehessive strength of 3,000 PSI I'm guessing you could drill the floor to determine thickness, but how do you determine the comprehessive stength (if the floor is pre-existing for years, prior to install)?
Nice!!! I love mine, stout little lift and love the lift pump setup.. I have bolt patterns in 3 different spots around the house.
I about poo'ed my self with my car on the lift with the engine out... I was lifting a radiator up to remove it, and the car lifted of the rear pads about 2 inches. Be very careful and I highly suggest weights for the rear.
Thanks, Meister. I'm just wondering what the relationship is between the height of the pads and the height of those rods which protrode from the top of the pillars.
It only extends about 8ft the total height it goes up is about 4.5 feet off the ground I’ll post pics with the 348 on the lift later this week
I had to rep our the concrete under the posts I cut it out and reenforced it with rebar dug out under the existing slab so the plug is shaped like a top hat Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
NICE! Dave Rocks had a very good write up on lift points for the 355. On my asymmetric two post lift I put it on the lift backwards. I also have some tall jack stands that can be placed under one end for additional support, especially with pick up trucks and longer cars. If you do the shove test, don't do it at full height!! It looks like your lift is low enough to fit under the car, if so that is real nice. I have to raise my car a bit to get the arms under. A lift is the single best auto tool investment I have ever made.
Do any of you folks with MaxJax ever actually unbolt them and wheel them off to the side to keep your garage more clear? How long to take down and set-up after the initial install? Im looking to get a four post lift with jacks on it which will be primarily for storage, but also basic repairs and maintenance. Would like a two post lift as well for more serious repairs and maintenance, but i'd lose the ability to park three wide in my garage if I installed a more permanent / full height two poster. Any feedback from those who have installed, removed, and reinstalled their maxjax lift would be appreciated. Thanks, Jason
I do quite often. Right now I have one installed and one uninstalled to give more room in my garage. It's amazing how much space lifts take. Also, I leave my 348 on the lift for extended periods time while I'm working on it. I think the engine out service took 4-5 months and the car was on the lift the entire time. (My wife and I had out second son in the middle of the engine out) I can unbolt the lift in a few minutes and I have the spacers and the floor marked so that I don't have to spend much time re-leveling when I bolt them back down. Essentially, it takes less time for me to install the lift and get a car in the air than it does moving a jack around a car and putting jack stands under each corner.
the concrete was only 4 inches max jaxx requires 4.5 inches of concrete. they say it only needs 4 but when you get down to installing the anchors it needs 4.5 inches. i also went with 5000 psi rated concrete reinforced it with rebar and poured about 3 inches under the existing slab. Im a bit paranoid about a car falling on my head i love my Ferrari but im not looking to die in it or under it! (Look at step 4 in the picture from the manual)
If min thickness is 4in why do you feel it needed 4.5? They say to drill 4.5in so the anchor is flush on a thicker slab but on 4in slab just drill all the way through.
