Lift points location

This is the diagram that’s been going around Fchat for years.

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@1bigfish Note if you are doing this to get it up on jack stands, in order to get it high enough for you to easily get under, you will have to put it on higher settings. It is a multi part process as you go around. First get it up on the lower settings then go around and raise again. Same bringing it back down. If you don't have one of these newer low profile jacks you might have to get a scissor jack to start off in there to lift enough to get the big jack in. I just have an old jack but its indestructible. Watch crunching the body on in front of the rear wheels - its easy to mess up there. As noted below, there are gussets on the rear frame where the beams meet. try to get on the inner part, as close to the inner front corner of this to avoid denting it.

Buy a set of cheap hockey pucks on amazon if you have the metal round top jack stands. If you have the kind that go up into two prongs, put them on the beam just on outside of the gusset to prevent denting it and use a shop rag. It is okay on the frame rail next to the gusset in the rear - still strong. Try to use the pucks in the front because there isn't really a rail, just the fiberglass bottom inside corner of the wheel well and that's easy to crunch. I always use a puck on my jack too.

Also, once up on the stands. go back and put the jack on the end your working just for safety backup. It sucks if it slips and messes up the car, worse if mess up you.

Or go baller and get a set of Quickjacks. I did the jack stand dance enough I got sick of it.

Oh and watch some of this guys videos on good detailing techniques and his products are the real deal. https://www.youtube.com/@AMMO-NYC/featured

 

I have a Quickjack but haven't yet used it on my 308. Where do you put the pucks? The points in the diagram above aren't in line.

 

What model Quickjack? Mine seem to line up.

 

Does it? That’s great info. I didn’t try actually, I just noticed they weren’t in line and thought it didn’t. I guess it’s wide enough then? I believe I have the 5000 model.

 

If you chose the 4 forward points to lift the 308 DO NOT strip out the interior, the front compartment of radiator, the whole front suspension out.

The car will then have a fulcrum at the rear lift points and the engine will force the car to pivot on rear lift points the. Car will lift at the front and fall backwards off the ramp.

Fortunately I saw the movement on my car and just my little finger was enough to stop it happening.
I then put a handy wheel in the front compartment, then drooped the car down and repositioned the rear lift points.

be warned.

 

The old diagram is not super detailed, so here is one I worked up last year:

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I am planning on painting these points with bright yellow paint and stenciling "Jack Point" on it. Almost every 308 I have seen has a bent rear quarter panel from someone hitting the wrong spot.

 

Thanks for posting this! Huge help. Mine is lowered and I barely have 3" clearance to the body weld up front. Had to drive it up on some pavers I had laying around to get enough clearance to even see where these points are.

I have a QJ 5000TL in the cart now. Looks like it might just squeak under, without pads. Or I can keep doing the same trick with 3" pavers and then slide it under. Not the worst thing, but a little tricky with the P6 cams that makes it a little jumpy when trying short movements.