Hello community, from a long-time reader. Finally, I recently jumped onto the opportunity to add a black, open to beauty in my dream spec to my garage. The Spider is pretty low mileage (18k miles/29k km) and has only seen 1.2k miles/2k km since 2016 which is also when the last major was done. As far as I was able to judge the car is complete, stock and in very good condition coming out of a larger collection (no ugly surprises I hope). I will try to do as much as possible on my own on the car and am a fan of keeping things stock. So, as I wrote in the Swiss thread already - looking forward to the experience! However, I need to get the car to my place first. From a weight distribution perspective it seems like loading the car rear first onto a trailer is the way to go. What I have been trying in vain to find out - where to attach the trailer winch on a 360 rear? Yes, I can drive it onto the trailer but always prefer to use the winch. Hence this thread - hoping to find some help (&pictures?) here in this great forum! Thanks, Phil
Absolutely no reason to load the rear on first. Only time I ever winched one of my cars was after I wrecked it racing. Winched more than once.
When I got mine back in '06 I moved it front first and had zero problems driving about 800 miles. It was just tight inside tying down the wheels and getting out of the driver seat. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Agree with others. You want the majority of the weight over the axle(s) - not on the tongue of the trailer.
I'm towing a lot of mid engine cars with my discovery and trailer. Fully depending on what trailer you use but I rarely/ never backing them up on mine. Last week I picked up a testarossa for a friend that's been sitting for 10 years with brakes semi-stucked. Needed to be rear end first because a newer front made the tow hook hole non existing. 2 weeks ago I picked up a Diablo the "normal way"
Recently moved from GA to FL and rented a Uhaul with a trailer. Did some measuring to see if it would fit, I did have to put a 2x8 under the wheels to lift it just enough to open the door to clear the fender and also extended the approach using some race ramps and 2x8's. Worked perfectly and was simple to do for very minimal cost. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Like Andy 308 above that used the Uhaul version, I also had to use 8x12 lumber ramps to get up on the built in ramps, and pads under front wheels to clear front wheel stop lips . The drivers door cleared the fold down fender ok. It is a blind procedure to put these on a trailer and would recommend spotters to help guide it on and prevent an overshoot and keep it centered Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 6131009
These are some good ideas. I've recently thought of it but not sure I want to Trailer my car all the way from Florida to Pittsburgh. From Georgia to Florida or shorter distances I would. I called the guy I use to haul Cars and he is at $2.50 a mile right now So that would be around 2700 bucks to ship my car one way.
I have been wondering the same, where to attach a rope/ tow hook on the rear of a 360? I trailer all my cars rear first on the trailer, and for each of my cars I have a reference line marked, where I have measured the static tow ball load to 130kg (max approved for my car) In my experience you must always try to get to max allowed tow ball weight to get a stabile and safe car/trailer behavior. Another point, might be important, here in europe its not normal to use trucks to pull your trailer, rather larger SUVs or the like, making the weight distribution even more important. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've trailered my 430 Chicago to Naples and back a couple of times now always front first. My car is lowered so I had to rig some ramps to get it on. Like others, needed wood under the front wheels to clear the bumper to the stop. Drove it up the first time and that was really stressful. I now use a winch....easy-peazy. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
This is the smartest post here so far! see this video. Car front of rear facing is not the issue. It is the tongue weight! Several things influence it. The low hanging easy play is rear facing on mid-rear engine cars. But too much tongue not good either. 10-15% is what is often quoted. I shoot for the hit end to increase control but want my rig to be level running. I don't want the apex of the "V" of "truck-hitch ball-trailer to be pointing up or pointing down. https://www.weigh-safe.com/towing-safety/proper-tongue-weight/
Some here might have more experience than mine. I’ve been towing trailers since 2004 when I got into racing, in the tune almost every weekend. All kind of trailers through the year, gooseneck or bumper pulls. With gooseneck you can pretty much do anything and won’t affect it much. With bumper pull, it really depends on total load. The lighter the trailer and load the more you can get away without having a lot of tongue weight. If the towing vehicle is heavier than the trailer and the load, you can get away without any tongue weight. The heavier the trailer and load you will need more tongue weight. In my experience 15% tongue weight is absolutely necessary to prevent swaying for those instances. Currently my trailer setup is 10k loaded. If I have 13% tongue weight I will sway. I need to have 15% tongue weight to not sway. I’m towing with chevy Silverado 2500hd weighs about 7300 lbs. Here is a great demonstration
Just had to jump in on this thread since I just purchased a 24' enclosed trailer with a premium escape door for easy entry and exit of transported vehicle. That being said this thread is all about tounge weight and proper weight distribution over the supporting axles....I would not be opposed to rear loading if you had no choice and paid close attention to even weight distribution. My opinion on open trailers is it should be for short distances. Traveling long distances on our open freeway's is taking a chance on flying debris and the elements.. I witnessed this first hand when traveling back from Dallas to CA...pay the extra and have it transported enclosed its worth it.! Good Luck.!!
You want the weight on or ahead of the trailer axles. One way is to tow a Porsche instead! [emoji6] Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat
Hi all, thanks for the discussion so far. I have had only good experience trailering cars „engine first“. Guess the weight distribution in a 360 would still favour a rear-on-first loading. As I will be alone and most likely loading the car during sunset I’d prefer winching the car on the trailer. But where to attach the winch cable? There is no possibility to attach the tow-hook… suspension components? Does that work with the bumper/undertrays? How did you do it (with a 360)? Thanks for advice/pictures. Cheers!
360 only has about 44/56 % F/R distribution so nose first could work. Depending on which exact model, a 911 is more like 39/61. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat
Thanks all. Yes agree, probably overthought this one. So will winch it up nose first and move as far forward as possible. I have packed some additional boards in case I run into ground clearance trouble. I will use tire-straps on each wheel to secure the car. It's happening this weekend, should be sweet. Hope I don't forget to take a few pictures!
I'm doing the same with my 430 this weekend. Hauling from Naples to Chicago. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I have trailered my F430 a few thousand miles and always load nose first. Since you have a winch, my suggestion is to gently pull the car onto the trailer until you start to see a little tongue weight applied. I have a ¾ ton truck, and usually pull forward to the point I get about an inch of squat on the truck (then I air up my helper bags to accommodate).
That trailer is amazing. Does anyone own or have used something like this in the USA that they can point me to?
