lock replacement

Ken....I cut keys for Chrysler products every day, and I "code" an ignition lock at least once a week. Yes, I know they are not Ferrari, but the principle is very similar, (I also do GM, Ford, and others). There is a key "cylinder", and an outer housing, the lock works by the notches on the key pressing pins or tumblers against spring pressure until the uneven pins sit level in the cylinder and allow it to turn, or the flat tumblers line up in a straight line and allow a "v-block" to retract into the cylinder, again allowing it to rotate. Most cylinders will withdraw from the outer housing when in a certain position with the key in. On a Mopar lock they have to be rotated backwards past the accy position by depressing the two brass pins on each side. With older Ford units there is a small hole in the face of the cylinder that you could push a straight paper clip into and depress a button, with the key turning back past accy, the cylinder would slide out. On older GM locks you were forced to pull the steering wheel and turn signal switch and hammer a small flat screwdriver at a secret spot on the pot-metal column housing to detent a release button. I am sure our key cylinders will come apart somehow, just have to find the "trick"
And you are surely correct, the lock cylinders come from some other brand, Ferrari assembles car with parts from all over, just like everyone else...only they cost more..lots more...
I have not looked at my ignition cylinder yet, it works ok, but I will be disassembling my door cylinders and repairing/cleaning them in the coming months, they are sticky/grinding.
Gary

 

These are the same locks as the Alfa Romeo Spider 105/115:
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Hi Ken

As far as I know, the antitheft lock mechanism is unique to Ferrari and the 400 part is shared with a bunch of other Ferraris. I thought I needed to replace mine (turns out mine was OK) and I had a heck of a job tracking a used one down (couldn't stomach the Eurospares price of $2700 - every time I look it goes up again). It was in the Ads section for ages, but seems to be gone now. PM me if you are interested.

Cheers

Aidan

 

(o)(o)
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It is the black plastic ignition module on the back of the ignition switch that has worn out. Look up the several in-depth posts that I have submitted over the years, in this forum the technical forum,the TR forum and the 308 forum. The only permanent solution is to by-pass the switch and install a conventional modern switch in a more practical location. If the thought of going anything but pure stock repulses you, well then, you are doomed to the constant hassle of continuous laborious replacement. I hope that this is of some value To you. Thank you so very much. Jq.

 

Go to my post of 2/08/13. It will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about the subject. Including the fact that the ignition module is a common '80's BMW part available at their parts counters.. Also the superior SWF is the original manufacturer. Also, removing the steering wheel, and raising the steering column will greatly facilitate the switch
access procedure. In addition, if you have a sunroof that opens, that is where your feet should protrude. Doing this in a public place, will greatly multiply the stress factor. Also,
the Parts Bin.com usually stocks the
SWF part.
the part numbers are included in the post. Buy two of them,because you will surely be needing it in future.
again...the metal key cylinder is NOT the villain,
it is the key grooves in the black plastic module the wear, and,, or melt. Locate the post, and You will save hours, and hours of frustration. I hope that helps you. Thank you so very much. Jq.

 

I have done this procedure twice. The first time was ten or twelve years back, after I had owned my 1980 400i for several years with your same experience....key wiggling or sometimes not even being able to turn the key. The key actually snapped off in the lock, leaving me with a frog hair's stub to grab with a Kelly hemostat, once. I removed the entire lock /anti-theft cylinder and took it to a highly trained locksmith (U.S. Army trained). and we found that the key lock was perfect.. Then we unscrewed the little back module behind the assembly, and found that the heat generated by the electrical current had melted the guts within where the key fits in the module to turn it to the several positions within the switch. The quest for the module the fist time was a trek. When I located them, I bought three. I have one as a spare, and it is not for sale..
These beauties will soon go the way of the dinosaur. At least, when I originally found them, I informed fellow "chatters" on p.m.s, so as not to let some F-car parts guys gobble them up. I am truly over the drama.I hope that this is of some help to you. "Good Night,and Good Luck" (E.R.M.). Jq.

 

I got the electrical part of the switch from Pelican Parts, IIRC, about 5 years ago for about $120. Hopefully, you won't need the anti-theft lock part.

Aidan

 

Hooorugh...carry on. Jq.