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Discussion in '348/355' started by bders001, Mar 10, 2018.
You mean "Pump Motor"
I think i said it first this time
I had a lot of problems with my 355 F1 system and have discovered a lot. Most problems are associated with mechanics that don't understand how the system works yes, that means factory trained mechanics too. there are flaws that can be corrected I am currently working on having some of the problem parts manufactured. The repair is complex, the system needs to be dissembled, do my updates, replace wear parts, reset and tested.
There is no need to convert your car, it can be fixed! mine runs perfect! I'm not afraid of driving in auto mode. The clutch should last as long as a 6 speed perhaps even longer.
I said it before 2 words
So after a further inspection, I noticed the ground wire for the TCU was disconnected. I grounded the wire and still no fix. I hear the F1 pump engaging when shifting gears. It engages and switches gears but the analog does not switch into first from neutral. If I double press it, the analog switches into 2nd gear ( I think its because i'm forcing the system to move) . From my understanding that means the power unit/solenoids are engaging in the F1 system. Additionally, the analog will switch to 2nd gear, sometimes go into 3rd, if it doesn't go into third and I double shift, the car will move to 4th gear and then double shift again and it will engage to 6th then automatically fall back into neutral. This testing was done with the engine off, doors closed, front and rear latches closed.
Now, when I lock the car, I get one initial beep, and then 4 beeps. From the forums, I found out that 4 beeps means that there is a fault in one of the locking mechanisms.
I read that the car, as a safety precaution, will not engage into gears if there is a fault in the locking system.
That would explain why I can't move into first gear. I am going to try to find the fault and then further update on the issue.
Anyone have insight that would cause the problem of the 4 beeps rather than the 1 beep when locking the vehicle other than the doors and latches?
Thanks in advance.
Sounds pretty frustrating, but I agree a a good, knowledgeable mechanic should be able to figure it out.
Unless you're bored of the F1 and want to row your own gears, and this is just a good excuse to convert, I agree with others here, it doesn't make sense to convert.
My car was converted before they were replacement pumps, or the 360 pump retrofit was available.
I currently have all the F1 parts needed to converted back to an F1, just waiting on a little bit of time
The 4 beep issue is unrelated to your issue.
I assure you of this.
Sorry but you need to listen what we are telling you.
Put a jack under the transmission, put a board accross it and jack up the transmission a little.
DO NotLIFT Car
Just jack the transmission up about an inch.
Now check the transmission for shifting while car engine is off. See if it runs through the gears
Let. Us know exactly what you do.
You have still not told us how long for the pump to prime and how long before it re primes i think
This mimics the same as new engine mounts, likely your problem.
Work through item by item what we are saying and give us the feedback of what happens
The immobiliser system looks at door open switches, engine lid latches and luggage compartment latches. Do your door lights go out when you move the door towards close (and your interior light go out after a short time delay)? The engine lid latch switch and the forward luggage compartment latch switch should be open circuit when the lid is closed (but I'm not sure how you'd check those, except by pulling the electrical plugs off your immobiliser and doing wiring checks).
The F1 system does look at door open and engine lid open signals, but the experts are saying that your symptoms are not indicative of a door problem
When I bought my car the F1 system did not work. I fixed it all myself.
If you leave a decklid open it causes a problem.
You will see the car select first...Beep once...and drop to Neutral.
In fact, if you hold the paddle shifter in you can make it stay in gear and drive it around...in 1st.
The four beep issue, which my car has suffered now since the second engine out, means something...anything...is wrong with a setting in the alarm system...I think.
I really don't care as my car runs just fine despite the exact same beep issue the OP is questioning.
Someday I will just rip that whole damn immobilizer out...but til then, meh.
When trying to chase ghosts out of a car all the erroneous, unrelated symptoms can make the process impossible.
The F1 system in these cars is pretty damn simple.
However, it is a bit tricky to troubleshoot.
It requires a step-by step approach to find the issues.
Taz355 has some very good first step diagnostic steps that should be done to see what the OP has.
We can help more once we know those results.
A car with intermittent gear selection can be several things. Lets start with the more common:
1. Motor mount clearance check
2. Pump priming sequence and timing - dash flashes till primed
3. 40 amp / 60 amp fuses in footwell blown?
4. Relay OK? Did it fault? If it faulted on did it burn up the motor (and blow the fuses)?
Those four answers would go along way to some proper next steps.
There some other odd ball ones that I have come across, but 90% of most issues are revealed by just answering the questions above. If these are all good, it might be worth an SD connection.
...and just to tell you how stupid things can get:
I went to pick up my car after I bought it ( 8 years on now) and had an engine out done by a guy on this forum. He messed something up on the F1 system.
To trouble shoot he disconnected the wires to the front and rear decklid and twisted the leads together
My assumption was he thought this allowed him to operate the transmission with the decklid open.
Anyone see the problem here?
We pushed the car onto a trailer with the problem unresolved and I took it home.
I fixed it in 20 minutes.
Then there is Lakeforest...on my second engine out we needed to have the car's transmission sequenced on an SD.
Lakeforest told me I needed a new "carbon fiber actuator shaft". Huh?
Continental across down did my SD reset for $200.
God bless you guys for having the patients and ability to work on these issues. I could/would never. To me it’s like mowing a lawn, some things in life are worth paying for. Thankfully I have one of the best techs in the country who works on my cars. Gives me complete peace of mind.
Up until 3 years ago, I cut my lawn. Didn't hate it but it came down to time.
I'm now trying to find someone to take care of my pool. Huge undertaking because most people just don't give a crap. It's hard to find good people to do a good job.
Working on cars for a large % of guys here is a fun hobby. No better way to learn.
Having a great tech like Tony is awesome but sometimes these problems pop up during less than awesome times and having the knowledge to perform minor diagnostics might be the difference from the flat bed or getting the car home.
I respect guys on both sides of the fence.
If I'm not mistaken, you can remove all of your F1 system, ship it to GTE Engineering in Florida...and they will bench test/repair whatever needs to be repaired then send it back to you. Replace your motor mounts with 355 Challenge mounts as they're more durable to hot conditions.
Just Google "GTE Engineering Florida" and they should come up. For some reason their website isn't working right now.
Frankly, I'm surprised they're not a sponsor here.
Quick question. Whe you had the car scanned..what were the faults? Was "incorrect gear selection" one of them?
This sounds like a shift potentiometer issue. However, I can't remember if they are available separately on the 355 or if you must buy the actuator.
Yes you can. Sent more then my fair share to him for refresh and repair. Its money well spent. I send both the power unit and the actuator together. Never had an issue.
Last time I spoke with Serkan (A while ago) he said he was moving his shop to NJ.
Is your immobiliser unit easily accessible? When I was checking mine, I thought I'd have to remove rivets from security coverplates, but there was nothing on mine (although they may been removed by a previous owner). I could give you some (possible) pin numbers to check on the immobiliser plugs to ensure the door and engine/luggage compartment signals are getting to the immobiliser. Your car is a 5.2?
Rod Drew built me a new one. Been in my car for a few weeks now with my mechanic beta-testing it. Everything seems fine so far according to him. Can't wait to find out first hand. Been waiting for about a year and a half. He's selling them on ebay now, so that should help everyone out that doesn't have other options.
How much for the speciale edition with the faster shift points
...and adding in the "blip" on down shifts.
Thanks for the follow up post.
I hate it when support threads just die and no conclusion is reached.
Especially when they are something new.
Burns my butt as well
Ya thanks for the follow up
Especially when people make a new post and get heavily criticized for not searching, but all the search results lead to threads that the is no solution, or no follow up.