looking for radio harness for aftermarket Ferrari 612

Assuming your setup was similar to the one in the 360 and your objective is to retrofit a standard ISO connector, maybe you should have a look a this discussion : https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/360-stereo-wiring.676419/

 

A "plug and play" becker to Iso harness is quite common. This being said, it seems that some Ferrari are fitted with an additional amplifier that boosts the Becker output. Assuming the becker is 4x25w, the booster can double this output (4x50w). unfortunately if you put a stereo with a strong output you may fry the booster (if you send 4x100w to the booster it will try to boost it to 4x200w and die...).

So if you install a stereo that is equally powerful as the becker, you can use a cheap harness adapter. If the stereo is more powerful, you will have to make a more extensive analysis of what's fitted in the factory audio.

 

No knowmedge of your car. A picture of the becker and pionner connector would help.

Assuming you have a becker 6105 and, this one iso connector A B and C. C is not often used, and usually includes additional line outs for an external amplifier. If your Pioneer does not have the C connector, there are some workarounds, but not plug and play...

 

I mean the back of the radio units, as the connectors are easier to identify than on the harness.

The top connector is all you have connected to the becker?

 

Does your car have the premium JBL stereo option?

 

Well on this car, both the standard and the JBL systems have separate amplifiers. I do know what with the 488, the JBL amplifier has optical inputs so you cannot completely bypass it. Not sure about the 612. When you say your amplifier doesn't work, are you referring to your stock amp, or did you already swap it out with an aftermarket unit?
Regarding the wiring harness (BHA1784), that is the correct harness for speaker output/power/ground/amp turnon. However, most of the time the power and the amp turn on wires are crossed with this particular harness. If this is the case, the problem may be as simple as your amp not receiving the 12V turn on signal.

I'm the owner of Scuderia Audio (www.scuderiaaudio.com). PM me and we can talk details. Perhaps I can help.

 

Well looking at your Becker, it's got the standard ISO A & B plug, but also the C one (that drives the amp).

No doubt you can easily find a harness between that links plugs A&B to your Pioneer, unfortunately the C connector is going to be more tricky. C plug is actually 3 connectors in one. First part is "line-out" (i.e a non amplified signal that feeds an external amp), Second part is for remote control / speed sensing / etc. Third part is not is meant to control an external CD changer.

Based on your description so-far, I would assume that your car uses an external amplifier that requires at least the first part of the C plug. Either you buy a a proper pre-out cable for your Pionneer (see page 4 of your manual), or you hack the harness. If my assumption is correct, you would have feed the connector C as follows :

• "tap" a speaker to line-out converter on your connector B (pins B1,B2,B3, B4). This converter will modify the signal so as to make it compliant with what your amps expects.
  
• "tap" switched +12v from Connector A (pin A7), this one will enable to start the amp.

OR

• Use the optional Pre-Out cable, which is more or less the same, except that you do not have to tap cables and add line-out converters, but you still have to feed the ISO C connector.

https://pinoutguide.com/CarAudio/car_audio_iso_pinout.shtml

 

Let's get back to basic:

• the audio works and is amplified but does not sound great ?
• You've got an auxiliary amplifier (as seen in message #16) ?
• Do you have a CD changer ?

If you do not have C1 and an external amplifier, I assume this amplifier operates as a booster of the signal that comes from socket B. In this case your mechanic is probably right, you'd better disconnect the external amplifier and only use the built in amp of your new head-unit.

 

Socket A pin 5 used to be called antenna wire because once the head unit was starting it would ask to raise the antenna through this wire. This wire is now used to start whatever ancillary the audio may need (amplifier, antenna pre-amp, cd changer, etc...), but still called antenna wire.

If you do want to make the modification easy to revert, just source the same socket as the amplifier socket connector, and ask your technician to properly crimp wires so as to make it a "bypass socket".

 

Socket: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1534046-1?qs=YBpyWNYh7BlUc3eWvMQI/A==

Connector: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155542195549?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1YgNaGtRqQjeuht2Eioea8A52&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=155542195549&targetid=4580153136941813&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225722&mkgroupid=1224856224320848&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941813&abcId=9300906&merchantid=51291&msclkid=34e6ecb3122f13a38abe886d448127e3

You can make your own bypass harness for under 50 bucks.

Buy this if you need to bypass the radio: https://www.discountcarstereo.com/aih-audi.html

 

Another connector: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275929884005?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=881e001cfbb71856093a64c276346c1b