Looking for that green dot

You should be able to confirm if the variator recall has been done (or needed to be done) via an official dealer or importer

 

Not necessarily. I was in the same boat with a 99 model and there was no history that the recall had been completed even though the dealer and MODIS indicated there were no outstanding recalls. My communication with the dealer indicated that some data had been lost when they went to the updated system. My car did not have the stamps on the block either. However, this is what I found when I pulled the covers....
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If I were in that far I would change them. They are a part that should be changed at 100k km anyway.

Not that u have that many miles on it but just that it is a part with a known service interval, and the car is approaching 20 years old, and you can’t verify they were changed.


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May not be a straightforward job even with the cam out. There are many older threads here’s just one.

cam variator campaign question
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=9080&share_tid=398358&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eferrarichat%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Findex%2Ephp%3Fthreads%2Fcam-variator-campaign-question%2E398358%2F&share_type=t


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I am not a pro, and haven’t done this yet. I have a couple of years left before I need to tackle it but I have given it a fair bit of thought in preparation.

Rifledriver cryptically eludes to possible ways to get them off like removing a barrel from “Remington 700.” I’m not a gunsmith but I’d start with part 1&2 by this guy. Sounds like you are already there and are worried about excessive torque.



Next I’d consider least to most invasive (including judicious use of heat) of these suggestions.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/removing-remington-700-barrel-164641/

I am lucky to have a few very good machinists nearby. I would most likely supply them with as much info as they would be receptive to, and just have the machinist tackle it which will probably involve turning the variator shoulder on a lathe just at the cam end down to the threads.

I’ve no problem passing the cams off to a pro with the right tools and experience.


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This is a touchy one that has always had me miffed, so I chose not to worry about it. I have NO indication that my '99 has had the variator recall completed, although according to several sources and FNA, it was not required on my car, even though the VIN and chassis # falls in with the campaign. No green dot, record, or VD stamp...but when my major is due, it will be close to 60k miles, so I will probably just have it done then...even though I know someone who's engine blew AFTER the variator update, because of the variators. No absolutes here, so I just drive the car and enjoy it.

 

Not sure if you have seen this or not, but this pic is from the 360 CS workshop manual and it shows the OMG oc A998 variator stamping. I would assume since the CS came out at the end of the 360 model run, those markings would indicate a newer (i.e. updated version)

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So is that the same OMG 998 as in post #5?

 

Maybe, or maybe just a stock picture used. The 360 (idk about CS) WSM has been known to have errors.

Here is a pic from ricambi. I’d call or email/PM Daniel and ask him. He may be able to get the # from one.

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That is from page 141 in the CS manual. Not sure about the 1L mark though since the picture shows the RH side of the engine. Page 137 is showing the LH side which is stamped 2A

 

Hi to all. Just for future reference having recently fully rebuilt an alfa GTV Twin Spark engine which uses " visually" the same variator which I could not budge. I took the cam shaft to a well known alfa specialist who clamped the cam in a rubber faced vice and simply gave one huge tug using a breaker bar withe the variator tool . The trick is a substantial vice on a truly rigid bench!

 

Interesting. I had a garage change my cambelt and variator on my Twin Spark but it didn't last 600 miles before it came away from the camshaft and consequently destroyed the engine.

 

For me it does make sense. My take on it is thread lock is like a lube before it cures, so for the same torque applied, there will be more stress in the shaft than with a dry thread.

The cracks seem to propagate at the groove above the thread, so they rounded the profile there also.

Both changes hopefully reduce the risk of failure to a ‘more acceptable’ level.

I’ll be leaving mine well alone as the failure is either down to a manufacturing defect or installation and I figure after 35k miles, I’m as the bottom of the bathtub curve!

 

Follow the procedure........you will be fine :thumbsup:

Just enjoy the car in good health, that’s all that matters.....


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