Loose Drip Tray

Nemo4,
I don't know the book answer, but I can share two observations with you.

On my friend's Tipo M, the trays are riveted in. On my Tipo E (also a Euro car), they are held in with screws. I don't know if either method is proper, but either will do. Since both cars were repainted at some time in their lives, the trays were temporarily removed. My parts manual doesn't show any type of fastener. I don't mind that my trays are now easily removeable, as I've pulled 'em to hasten the exit of hot air from the engine compartment. And, I agree that intense heat would do a number on the finish.

We've a couple of 'one-owner' owners on board; they will likely have the correct answer!
Cheers,
Coop

 

Nemo4
not sure I understand where the drip tray is. I have a Tipo E and don't see any brackets, or mount points for a drip tray. There is a small approx 300x300mm steel guard plate screwed to the chassis below the clutch pulley. Any chance of some pictures?
Kevin

 

I believe he is talking about the drip tray located below the engine lid hot air vents.
They are usually just pop riveted on from what I have seen.

To fix the loose drip tray, I would recommend nixing the welding option and going for the rivets instead.

 

I'm fairly certain that the drip trays on both my Dinos (04808 and 3964) are riveted on. As for heat escape, I've never worried about it while driving, but immediately upon returning from a drive, I open both the front hood and the engine lid to allow for cooling. I also use several cloths estended over the bottom of the rear window gasket to keep excessive heat off the rubber during the cooling process. Fred

 

There's one end of the tray that's not riveted but glued to the deck lid, I think that's what he's talking about. You need some really good adhesive, for some reason it's hard to get it to stay in place.

 

Nemo4,
having read the replies and re-read your question, I can now see the trays you are questioning.
My late '73 car, had the trays riveted to the engine lid frame. I am fairly sure this is as original. The tab which Scuderia says is glued to the engine lid, is loose on mine. The trays are quite firm so I am not too worried. The tab is about 10mm clear of the engine lid, but can be pushed easily to make contact with the lid.
I replaced the rivets with 4mm nuts and bolts as per photos. Makes it easier to remove and clean.
Never had any worries about getting heat out, however, i run it in a UK climate, so not a real test.
I would not weld them to the engine lid, there should be no need.
Kevin.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I know two options from other 246 here:
1) leave the out. A friend measured a lot lower under the hood temperatures without and there is not really something they would protect.
2) "Glue" them. After removing all sign of Oil etc. you can use we in Germany would say "body sealant" or Sicaflex.

 

Mine were originally pop riveted with a thin piece of rubber on each of the flat parts that touch the underside of the bonnet. I have had them powder coated and refixed as was.... and they are tight up against the underside but i guess with use they will gradually work loose and start flapping. Then i will just glue between the rubber and metal.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Originally riveted, but a common reattach is to use sheet metal screws