I am just back from a 2000 mile Gumball with my newly acquired Scuderia so I got to know the car better as the trip went on. One thing I noticed is that the car required a lot of steering micro corrections in torrential rain and poor pavement. I thought it was probably a characteristic of the P-zeros. I later noticed that there appears to be a 1 to 2 degree free movement or "loose" spot when you turn the steering back either way from its neutral position. I started wondering whether there was something wrong column. Upon my return a fellow new Scuderia's driver told me he had noticed the same thing and searched on the net to find any info. We checked three Scuderia's at a recent gathering and they all appear to be the same. There is probably no issue I guess but is this something well known? Is this a normal characteristic of track-focused cars? I am not that mechanically savvy so I am probably the problem but any input is welcome.
I had the exact same thing happen in my F430. Luckily it was under warranty and the dealer tightened the steering column and the problem went away.
I have the same issue Dave. What do you mean by "tightened the steering column"? Do you remember what exactly they did? Thanks.
I really never asked. I can ask next time I am there. I brought it in complaining of the car wandering and a dead spot at center. I thought it was a steering rod problem from what it felt like. They analyzed the problem and told me the steering column was loose and had to be tightened. They did say the column had to be disassembled but it didn't sound like it was a big deal. They said they never saw one like it before. So, I didn't even bring it up on Fchat thinking it was just an odd ball problem.
Exactly the symptoms I've got right now. Car is 4 weeks old, 2000km. I kept blaming it on strong cross winds on the highway, but playing with the steering wheel, there is definitley a dead-spot - 1 or 2 degrees of movement on the steering wheel with no positive engagement of the steering mechanism.
Mine sounds like it was worse. I had more than a couple of degrees. Good luck in finding the problem!
Got that problem also. This is the real main problem with the feeling of my car. Terrible. Any input how to solve this would be great. //Anders
Hi, I also got a problem of a loose steering wheel on my 360 spider in 2009 and it looked exactly like what you are describing. I remember that the technician went underneath the steering wheel with a couple a tools and fixed it in 5 minutes!!! He told me that it came from the system to adjust the steering wheel (up and down...) with the handle and it needed to be tightened. Since then, never have I had any problem with it !!! It sounds maybe too good to be true but it is exactly what happened. Hope this will help you and let me know because my understanding is that I could have done it by myself. Good luck, and let me know Domi
Started to look into it. Took away the plastic panel and clamped the steering axle over the aloy cross. I will show some photos in next post. Yes I got play. Lots of it. It is in the splines that are used when you adjust your steering wheel in and out. There is a play in the splines - but evenso - this play will increase the aditional rotation play after the cross. Hard to explain in words- Will show you. The good part is that you can fix the play by tighten a nut that clamps the splined axle. Then you might have difficulties to push and pull the wheel - but since there is just one driver to most of our cars - who cares? The quick fix is to push the steering wheel as far away from you as possible and lock it there. You will now minimize the effect of the play in the splines. Then we will see to the big sleeved nut. Comming soon. This will be a nice fix that transforms this awful mini corrections when driving. all the best //Anders
Two photos. One showing how to clamp the steering axle to check the play. Clamp it and turn the steering wheel left / right and you will see what I mean. You don´t have to do it - just do it if you are interested to se what kind of play you have. In the middle of the other photo there is the dark grey "clamping nut". You might see by the small yellow dots - how much I have tighten it. Close to 1/2 turn. You will need a 27 mm open wrench for this nut - and then you are done, having a brand new car. //anders Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
As always, your posts are just brilliant Anders!!! I will put my head under the dashboard to find out and understand what you mean and have documented with your photos. Thanks
Thanks a million Anders. I will look into it and get back to the group.would be a big relief to get that fixed!
One more thing. After tighten upp the splined axle the Front wheel angel sensor is a bit upset. That is - the car will run in a mode with no ESP / Track controll - nothing. You will have to take it to a shop to reset it. 15 min work with coffe break. Took mine on a 50 km trip to AUTOCURA for this fix. That is 100km with a wonderful steering respons. Like a dream. This is really a poor Ferrari design. If you look closely, you realize that the axle need som sort of support just where it goes into the first joint. Will make one for my car this winter. //Anders
The reset info is indeed very important Thanks for the info Anders. For those who don't want to get in troubles with a reset, can you confirm that the same result of perfect steering can also be obtained by pushing entirely the steering wheel towards the dashboard?
Sorry. Go for the reset. Not a big deal. Or if you are uncertain - take away the lower part of the plasic cover and go to your workshop. It will then take them 10 min with the 27 mm wrench to tighten the nut and 15 min to reset the Steering Sensor. Absolutely not more than an hour of labour. This is a real cheap way of transforming your old boring car to something that they were ment to be from the beginning. Pushing the Steering Wheel is just the quick fix. You will still have some play. Start with the fix and see if you can feel any inprovement - the go for to tighten the nut and a reset. You will not regret this. Even if you do the " tightening nut " - I recomend you to have the Steering Wheel as far away from you as possible - this will help to keep the end of the splined axle to wobble. Before I did this I was prepared to sell the car. I don´t want an entusiast car to have a steering like my Suzuki Vitara. Now we are friends again. //A
Thanks very much Anders. To refer on the schematic steering column design, did you remove the plastic trim panel #6? Can you please indicate the item number of the nut you have tightened? Here's some info from the WSM related to the steering column. Please correct me if this is not the right info related to your DIY guide: Adjusting the steering column torsional clearance The tightening of the ring nut (H), located on the lower end of the upper steering column shaft, determines the steering wheels torsional clearance. When the ring nut is tightened, the torsional clearance is reduced and the load increased, resulting in the axial adjustment of the steering wheel. IMPORTANT Do not overtighten the ring nut, as this could impair the steering wheel axial adjustment. To adjust the clearance, proceed as follows. 1 With the engine off, turn the steering wheel slightly to check the amount of clearance. 2 Release the axial/angular adjustment lever on the steering column and check that the axial adjustment is acceptable. 3 Using the special wrench socket on the ring nut (H), tighten the latter by a few degrees. 4 Verify whether there is still any angular clearance and check the axial adjustment load is still acceptable. 5 Repeat the procedure outlined above in points 3 and 4, until clearance is eliminated. 6 Unscrew the ring nut slightly in the event of excessive axial adjustment load. Reference values for the steering wheel axial adjustment load - Optimum: 12 Kg - Maximum: 16 Kg Thanks Anders. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think #6 is a screw. #3 is the lower panel that should be removed. Leave the upper part as it is. Be careful when you split the two panels, then pull the steering wheel all back and you can take the panel away. Take your time. I think there are 5 screws. Yes #H is the nut. Tighten it properly when the steering wheel is pulled back and then adjust the length of it by pushing the wheel forward. #24 is the sensor. If you put a clamp over the far away elbove of #25 (close to the steering gear rack) and lock it there - then swing the wheel left right and you can see what kind of play we are talking about. Now you can also see the that there is really a need of support at the end of axle #23. Since there is no torque number for nut #H - you will have to tighten it by feeling. //Anders
Here is another picture of my steering shaft. It differ a bit from your picture Stef - my axle is longer - giving me a chance to fabricate a support before the first elbow. On your picture I don´t think there is space enaugh. Check how your your car is designed.. All the best Anders Image Unavailable, Please Login
omg! i love u guys! i noticed this free play even more after an alignment, now i know what to tell my dealer! i would never knew its a "problem" if it werent for this post! thanks guys!
Did the "quick fix" like was suggested - pushed the steering wheel all the way towards the dashboard. Mine was about about an inch or so out towards the driver. The "wandering" feeling that has been really bothering me was certainly minimized last night when I went for a drive - still has a slight loose feeling. Maybe need to check alignment as well on my car. Into the dealer on the 11th.
Thanks for the other picture. Actually, Anders, the picture I posted comes from the WSM, not from my car. I will have a look at this, this WE and take some real pictures from my steering shaft.
Now, don´t hesitate / discuss or wait. Just do it. This is the best fix of all. Drive mine today and was stoped by the traffic police. I was all green, but the fellow asked:" Why are you smiling?" I am not smiling I told him. I am enjoying. Then I realized that I could´nt explain this to him in a resonable way, so I left. Getting rid of this play and changing camber to -1 all around and zero toe in front, makes this car a delight to drive. //Anders
