Dear all I have read so many threads about losing power (6 cylinders) because of an electrical problem. Let me tell you what happened to me Yesterday I was at a Palm Springs at 100+ degree weather, the car was running fine ( a bit hot during idle) the car was parked under the blazing sun while I was having lunch and when I restart it I had no power (the car revved up but no torque) it ran like that for like 5 mins or so and then suddenly the power came back. I am not sure if the hot weather has something to do with it. I have had cars that start doing weird things in extremely hot or extremely cold weather due to the electronics. Then the car drove perfectly for 200 miles, when I get home I went to wash the car, I am very careful to not put so much water on the engine cover to prevent spillage inside. After washing the car the car ran again with only 6 cylinders, this time stay like that for like 20 mins and shutting down the engine and restarting didn’t make a difference. I parked my car and began reading threads about it, most people agree this behavior is due to an electrical mishap, (the fuse box or a bad connection somewhere) but I read this thread https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/no-power-and-weird-behavior.441066/ And post 12 and 19 refer to a recent wash “The reason I ask about a recent wash is water can get into the ignition wires into the coil modules under the metal triangle pieces on both pass and driv sides. I would pull the wires and make sure they are dry, clean and secured. If the TR runs on one bank, temp will go up.” After reading this I restarted the car to see if the power could be back after these components might be dried already and to my surprise the car is running fine now So my questions for the experts are the following: 1 is it possible that I lost one bank due to the extreme hot weather first and then to the car wash?, 2 are these cars that fragile to water?the coil modules the other thread makes reference to look very exposed to water due to the open panels (see pictures) 3 can I diagnose a fuse panel problem or bad connection if the problem is not present now?? Thank you very much in advance Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I started experiencing the same issue recently. Mine is intermittent and I cannot pinpoint the issue either. However, it happens more often on a cold start. Seems that the car starts with the left bank only, but after a fairly long wait, the right bank kicks in. I plan on taking the TR in to have it looked at. I will let you know what I find out.
I started the car today from dead cold and it fired up right away with the whole 12 cylinders and the idle very steady. Sometimes when I don’t use the car for several days the car needs to be cranked twice, and the idle is a bit erratic but it gets better when it warms up. Maybe I have experienced the same as you but I don’t know if the car is running on 6 cylinders because I am not moving (waiting the car to warm up) and by the time I move the car is fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your problem could be for numerous reasons and there are a number of tests you could perform on a cold and warm engine. Do you have a spare coil and module? If not I would suggest you purchase one of each and keep them in your car. No need to buy OEM there are similar parts used on other makes at a fraction of the cost. The next time you encounter this problem try swapping the coils from side to side, if you have a flakey 1-6 and swap it to the 7-12 side the car should start then die rather than keep running on one bank as you report is your issue. Here is a thread to the coils and modules. Good luck and please update this thread when you have more information. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/testarossa-coil-and-module-thread.279017/
Feel the exhaust coming from the tailpipes. No heat from one side usually is a sign. I first noticed when I started the car and saw the usual white smoke only coming from one side. I felt the other tailpipe and it was cool. Hopped in the car after a 5 minute warmup and sure enough...
Yes I read several threads yesterday after restarting the engine and I checked today and both sides were producing fumes. The car start it right away with no hesitation so I knew the car was running properly with 12 cylinders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And that is exactly why I am curious if this behavior could be weather or exposed to water related. I had a cayenne turbo and used to do crazy stuff when the car was exposed to extreme temperatures. And the thread I read got me wondering about the car wash. Do you know if a mechanic can pinpoint your issue if the car is running properly when you take the car to the shop?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you may first check what bank of cylinders are not running, so right bank ( cyl. 1-6 ) or left bank ( cyl. 7-12 )
Thanks Joe but the car is running fine now!!! So please tell me what to do if ever happens again? Yesterday when the car had no power I checked the exhaust and both of them were hot and according to me releasing fumes (not as easy to see as with a cold start start but still I could feel the flow) Do both banks get connected at some point that they might share some of the exhaust flow? Or when one bank is off the exhaust should feel like the engine is off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks I understand unplugging and cleaning the harness connectors is a good first step to prevent it to happen again. (At the end cleaning the harness will never hurt) But my question is if this behavior is normal due to water and/or hot temperature, do I need to be very careful while washing the car and better not go out if I see rain coming? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You just made me answer my own question. I have an Ansa exhaust so according to the picture I share one muffler for both sides( It is the version with catalytic converters even though I don’t have cats) Then how can I know if a bank is down without driving the car. And which bank is it? Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would try a infrared thermo gun on headers ? The side that is down should be cooler by a larger degree Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Good idea, what about a stethoscope on the valve covers? Would you be able to hear the difference ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not sure if you will hear a difference ... If you have a timing light gun you can see if you are getting a spark on one side (down to each of the plugs) as well Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
I´m sure you will hear a difference, but first you may have to hear both sides running well to hear then when 1 side is not running the difference and know then what side is not running right, but may be it will be a question of fuel that one side not running?
I had written to use a fuel pressure gauge but wasn't sure it applied to the TR . I have a 512tr ..so I deleted the response until I did a little research but the quote was left there What I was going to say is use a pressure gauge on fuel rail and listen for injections to open and close with scope ...but ten I realize it was a TR not a 512 TR Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Because my car shares one muffler before the tail pipes, I touched the precats from a cold start and both of them got hot at the same time My logic tells me that one side will be colder if the car is running on one bank only. I will monitor it this way just to be sure every time I star the engine both banks are running. I contacted Dave Helms yesterday, he told me that the wash is a possibility, I was very careful to not direct the water to the engine bay BUT I was not that careful when I washed the taillights from behind with the water pressure gun. So it is a big possibility that I put some moisture on the coil elements, and that is why the car is running fine now (after the coils dried) But most of the time the culprits is the fuse panel. Now my question is about the heat, it could be that earlier that day I lost the bank because my fuse panel, which never had problems before, was over sensitive to the extreme weather. So I removed the 4 big white connectors to see which ones could be in bad shape. The ones in red (P41 and P63) look pretty burnt, the one in yellow not that much (P44) and the one in blue (P33) is actually a cable that is installed directly into it. Can someone please tell me what corresponds to each connector?? Thanks Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
photo from the P41, P63, P44 and P33 would be great to see how much burnt. also check if the pins have some tension. if not then the contact is not ok and they will burn
The connectors in this order Up left (great shape) P33 has a cable connected directly Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk