Losing 6 cylinders after extremely hot weather and/or after a wash??

P33 = AC Power
P41 = LH Water Fan Power
P44 = RH Water Fan Power
P63 = 7-12 Fuel Pump Power (which is confusingly operated by the "RH fuel pump relay" as labeled at the fuse-relay panel because the 7-12 fuel pump is mounted on the RH side of the chassis)

(P64 is the 1-6 Fuel Pump Power)

These five terminals eventually get frazzled on virtually every TR. (My initial guess would be P63 is causing causing your loss of one bank symptom rather than ignition, but once it happens again, the logical thing to do is rule the ignition in or out with a timing light or spark tester).

Using a spade terminal to replace the stock 2-prong terminal (like on your P33) can be a solution if the male tab on the PCBA is still in decent condition. If the male tab and/or PCBA is severely damaged that requires a more involved "fix".

 

Maybe some, but a lot of it can be related to the plating/corrosion/tension/randomness of each terminal -- i.e., P63 and P64 carry very similar heavy electrical loads, and yours is a clear example of both not degrading at the same rate. When they start to go bad, they can be intermittent so wouldn't strongly relate it to any outside event

If the male tabs and PCBA are still in good shape, going to a spade terminal on each would be OK IMO (might require some chewing on the plastic white connector). Dave Helms modifies an existing (which could be damaged or not) fuse-relay panel to bypass those connectors and moves the corresponding relays to a sub-panel. If you do an advanced search on "TR white connector" using my member name and read those 114 threads, you'll see that this isn't a new topic -- and those threads should have pictures of Dave Helms' and other fixes people have made

 

No, that male tab still looks pretty good (and since it's still working that's a sign the PCBA isn't too horrible).

 

Generally, yes -- but: A) you need to do something for all five of those terminals regardless (and the oil radiator fan or AC condenser fan connectors are maybe a little bit less troublesome than those, and don't cause serious runability issues when they go bad, but they have also been reported as failing on some TR), and B) I'd replace #4 with "diagnose and fix whatever needs to be done" rather than just assuming that it's the PCBA.

 

New stock female terminals from Ricambi really doesn't solve the problem, and the male tab surfaces may be degraded where the 2-prong stock female terminal touches so may not work so well, or for very long, even with new female terminals (time to failure is related to time of use/mileage, not overall age). They won't fail right away, but I prefer having better reliability (and more trouble there will just degrade the male tab more). At a minimum, you need the direct spade modification like on your P33. My preferred "fix" is much more involved (bypassing those connections completely, but using the stock relays in their stock locations, unlike Helms' solution; however, you can't "buy" my fix) -- please see those 114 threads .

P57 (light blue-white wire) is the oil fan power

The AC condenser fan power is in the vertical c white connector (not shown in your pic)

 

just send your circuit board to dave helms. It's money well spent.

 

There are a few options for your fuse board.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/new-motherboards-for-fuseboxes.563211/

 

when one bank goes out try to figure out if its fuel or electrical...

One exhaust will be cold. Smell the exhaust, if the fuel pump works it will be exhausting unburnt fuel I would think. Also, take one of the spark plug leads off and check if its firing with a spare plug...

When mine did this, it was a bad fuel pump...

Good luck...

 

P19 -- should be a green-white (VB) wire

No, only the high current circuits have the "burning" trouble -- the tachometric relay is a low current circuit (I added it to that diagram when discussing a different problem someone was having as a convenient place to make a diagnostic voltage measurement).

 

P38 = goes to RR turn signal bulbs (light blue wire).

P41 = is a purple-white wire sending a +12V signal from the tachometric relay terminal 87 that goes to terminal 15 of the protection relay to actuate the protection relay (this is not a high current signal and has not been reported as a "burner"). Have you had some crazy modification like having the protection relay removed and this wire running the KE injection system directly?

P44 = is a red-green wire from the thermo-time switch. When the thermo-time switch is cold, the contacts inside are closed which grounds this wire and causes relay U to fire the cold start injectors during starter motor cranking (until cranking heats the thermo-time switch and causes the internal contacts to open and de-energize relay U). Again, this is a low current signal, and this terminal has not been reported as a "burner". Having a modification, or repair, here is also most unusual.

 

My bad -- I missed that there's an unlabeled position between P35 and P36 in the ferrariaustralia diagram so miscounted (and relieved because mods in those other positions would be bizarre ).

P38 = unused (no wire) on a US version.