Can someone give some guidance. I was another day at the car meeting and ppl get around and start to ask me to accelerate. After some revs I shut off and walk around. When I come back to start, 1/4 light was on. Car was not running right. I drove home. Car doesn’t not go over 3k rpm. Complete dead. looks like a 4cc car. Someone have any ideas? Car has no cats. last code that I got was misfire cylinder 4 I Check the ignition coil, removing the cable a put a little far from it. first time that I test had a big sparks, second time none, third time small sparks Now I order crank position sensor. Anyone had similar issues before thanks
There are so many things it could be in these ageing cars, looks like you are starting in the right place. Sometimes its simple other times its symptoms of age. I had a faulty relay which would cause one bank shut down. Took me a while to work out what it was because it didn't happen with regularity, it was so random.
At least with the 348, you can swap components between engine banks. Cylinder 4 seems very specific, but I'm not sure one cylinder would stop your engine going over 3k rpm. Are your SLOW DOWN lights working on engine startup? What year is your car (2.5 or 2.7 engine management?) Does your catless car have thermocouple ECUs?
Yes the slow down light works My car is 1991. Yes it has thermocouples on both pipes. I personally remove the cats and installed those pipes
Interesting. I wonder if a faulty Cat ECU can cause bank shutdown, but not illuminate the light. You could try disconnecting the RH Cat ECU (large) connector. I hear it will generate a fault code, but not a CHECK ENGINE light. I suppose you could carry out basic checks and faultfinding. e.g. check fuel pressure check spark plug condition on the RH bank interchange coil packs and amplifiers interchange Motronic ECUs
I check spark plugs… and swap 3 for 4 but same results. I’ll swap coil packs / fuel pressure and interchange ECU . I didn’t know I could change those…. Where is the cat ECU connector. What I think is strange is that even if I disconnect the battery when I plug back the check engine 1/4 instantly light up. It’s been hard to fire up. I’m thinking is the crank sensor fault. ( I order both) That’s what I going to do next. I’ll keep you guys update. Thanks for the tips
I don't know if you can tell from this photo.... (LHS ECU) Image Unavailable, Please Login I don't know if you have to remove the wheel liner to get to the plugs. Yes, they should be identical. On the 348 and early 355s you don't have to worry about immobiliser programming.
Disconnect the big plug on the thermocouple ECU, not the thermocouple. Image Unavailable, Please Login I mean for the right hand side.
Thanks I did but still the same. I remove the connector from the right side ignition coil car runs the same. Something is wrong. I haven’t swap ignition coil yet. But definitely I have no power coming Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Definitely. I guess it's best to interchange the coil packs. If that doesn't work, it could be the power module/amplifier (below the coil pack). Hopefully it's a coil pack as they are relatively cheap. Bosch 0221503407. Look for 12 volts on the middle pin of the coil pack connector (with the ignition on, car not running)
I really appreciate your help! I’ll try to swap the coil pack! Hope solves the problem. Yes I saw at eBay for $100 I notice that the slow down light is not light on when I switch the key on as well. I have some electrical issue. My brand new alternator is dropping power when I turn the a/c on. I wanna make right before start the preject. I’ll turbo charger her! ️ I’ll keep you posted. If you want. Follow me @ferrari_348ts
Probably the power module or coil. Replace both for under $100. Bosch coil at Rock Auto: BOSCH 0221503407 Power module at FCP Euro. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-ignition-control-module-911-bosch-0227100200
I appreciate I swap power module/coils left to the right. Still the same I have no power on the right side no spark. I unplugged the wire to the right side and engine is running the same. I placed everything back. Come to the module inside and unplugged and plug back. But still the same. There is any fuse or relay that power the module? Image Unavailable, Please Login
You mean to the coil it self? if is it! Has not power coming . As I mention if I remove the wire it doesn’t make any difference. That’s why I ask if there is any fuse that send energy to the module. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So you checked it with a voltmeter with the ignition key ON? The coil pack gets power directly from the ignition key. If you have no power on the middle pin, you have a wiring issue. There are no fuses/relays for the coil packs Image Unavailable, Please Login Did you have a good earth (ground) for your DC voltmeter? You should have interchanged it with the other one. The ignition power module gets power from the Bosch Motronic ECU behind the passenger seat. The Bosch Motronic ECU gets live battery power from fuse 18 ("Ignition/injection System Right Bank 1~4") and ignition power directly from the ignition key. No fuses/relays for the latter one. At this point, it seems like an ignition wiring issue. I'm guessing that English is not your native language, so it's important that we understand each other before continuing with the diagnosis.
Thanks for you’re help. I end up taking the car to eletricis but he has not find anything I test the connector that you mention. And both sides it has power. swap ecu’s and nothing happen Check fuses and they are good I start swap everything again from the left to the right. To make sure maybe was the ignition coil. End up that is not. Left side Engine works fine. Right side is death. Very frustrated
how old are your spark plug wires? any arcing? Did you remove the spark plugs and inspect? crank sensor?
They are barely new . I remove and inspect today. But when I remove the spark wires and leave close to the ignition coil, was suppose to have sparks and it don’t. Crank sensor a didn’t change those yet.
Did you reconnect the CAT ECUs? Did the electrician see that you had no spark? I guess the next logical step is fitting a crank sensor.
The sensor on the right bank is called the "Engine Timing Sensor", aka Camshaft Position Sensor. This sensor sends signal to both ECU-s so it would affect both banks, not just one.
