The guy just told me that my alternator is making 14,3v at 3.000 RPM I swap the alternator 3 times already. But this is another issues that I’ll deal later. Now my concern is the misfire on the left side. I order already the sensors. I’ll post over here as soon that I install I appreciate you guys are so helpful always
The cats ECU are disconnect. Before was driving fine with those connect but I read here that I don’t need those connect as soon that I have no cats anymore
Could you explain what you mean by “works” but “not on”? On the 348, it's the purpose of the Cat ECUs to turn on the Slow Down lights when the ignition is turned on. If the CAT ECUs are not conected, the SD lights should not turn on. Is your car a Motronic 2.5 or 2.7?
Yes! Sorry I was answering telling that the light was functional. But not ON. Normally is on when something is “wrong” Now I have those ECu wires disconnected . SD light not ON even if I have those wires (CAT ECU) SL light does not be ON. I believe nothing is wrong with it. I believe MOTRONIC 2.5 Thanks for your efforts trying to help! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Going by the Bosch part number, the ECU seems to be a 2.7 Anyway, good luck with the crank sensor. Image Unavailable, Please Login Check the crank sensor wiring while you're in there. Also make sure the sensor has the correct clearance.
To clarify the SDLs : when the exhaust "Centralinas" are connected, and if they are good (often not good), the SDLs will light-up at ignition "on" for a couple of seconds; this tells the engine ECUs that the Centralinas are good. If this short SDL light-up does not take place (and the bulbs are good), it means that the Centralinas are bad and the engine ECUs will store fault code 4121. This is a "silent" code; it can be read but it will not affect engine running nor cause CEL. If the Centralinas are good and connected, they will (after blinking the SDLs for a while) permanently light them up and cause bank shut-down if the EGT goes too high. The engine ECU you have shown is M27. It should be for Ferrari 348 Spider & Challenge (but I am not sure), Ferrari Part 147176 (superseded by 156536).
Man this picture tells me everything. I can tell just by this picture that my issue is the crank sensor. I was under the car I notice the plug for the crank sensor a little be wet with oil and attached with tied up because is cracked . I can’t believe I’m dealing with this issue for so long and I just realize that. I wanna go under the car now to fix this It’s 00:21 here… Thank you so much. I’ll keep you posted and after fix. I’ll have to figure why the alternator is not charging correct after this. thanks 100 times!!
Thanks ! That’s exactly what happen the code is been store. When I push the button by the MOTRONIC I count and this code comes up. My car is 348TS 1991 Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's a common problem. Plugs get soaked with oil or the wiring gets damaged. Now we have to figure out which alternator wiring you have. Most have this setup: https://www.dropbox.com/t/AX4ne36SdBZZHtTk I would check the wiring going to the alternator connector. There is a fragile plastic circular connector on the left side of the engine bay which has some alternator wiring going through it which is known to cause issues. Also check the plug on the alternator. Maybe the red wire has broken (going to the "S" terminal). Some of the last 348's had this setup: https://www.dropbox.com/t/2cAiKpowurrR2IQ5
I always have issue with the alternator. I test and saw that was not charging correct. Every single person told me the same thing. You have a bad alternator. Than I bought this which it is plug-in play https://www.ebay.com/itm/254559536082?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5orHbmNLQpi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=yUrQqavHSi2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY End up with the same issue. Charges at only 3k rpm. My is the second plug. But doesn’t make sense that alternator is not charging at idle. I start to thought that was because of the size of the pulley. But still no making sense because the pulley that comes with it is bigger than the old one that I remove from the old alternator. I was talking with the electrician, but he mentioned that he doesn’t know if the car has a voltage regulator outside, and I could not answer. I’ll bring this to him. And let see. I’m pretty bad with wires and eletric.
The alternator's voltage regulator is inside and the 3-pin round connector connects to it. First, does your alternator charging light in the instrument panel come on at ignition "on" and go off once the engine is started? If the alternator charging light comes on with ignition "on", you should do checks on the alternator's round connector (when disconnected) as follows (also see picture): 1. The eye terminal of the short red wire should be connected to the alternator's output post (together with the main alternator cable). 2. The pin of the green/white wire (or the wire at this position if your wire colours are different) should have 12V on it when the ignition is "on". If you don't have 12V on the mentioned wire at ignition "on", check the round (or rectangular on your car?) connector (115) in the engine compartment near the left shock tower. See if there is any corrosion on the pins. On the "fixed" side of the connector 115, if it is round on your car, its Pin #5 should carry 12V at ignition "on"; if rectangular, Pin #3 should carry 12V at ignition "on". If you get 12V at ignition "on" on the relevant pin of the "fixed" side of connector 115, but no 12V on the green/white (or equivalent) wire at the alternator's 3-pin connector, check the continuity from the relevant pin of the 115 connector's disconnected loom side to the green/white (or equivalent) wire pin in the 3-pin round connector at the alternator. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes light Battery light is on when ignition is on. As soon that I start the light goes off. My connector not the round one is the square as Ian send on the second Dropbox file. I’ll let the electrician know exactly what you said. let see if he can come up with a something good. I’ll let you know as well. Thank you very much to share all your knowledge with me. You guys rock!
Also clean and check all connectors here I had similar problems and it was just a bad connection Replacing cranck sensors is a good idea but will not solve your problem
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Good news dear friends. I install new crankshaft sensor and the car now is working properly. Both side are function correct. I still have 1/4 light on but this problem is solved. next one will be checking the alternator following the instructions that you mention. I can’t thank enough you guys for all the efforts trying help me with this. I really appreciate Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would like to also enter the competition. The cam position sensor connector on my 348 when I bought it: Image Unavailable, Please Login
