Lubricating TR Window Motors

Do you happen to know the part number for the equivalent Alfa motor for future reference?

I am not sure how easy would it be to marry the new motor to the rest of the gearing mind you. I never tried completely separating the motor from the gearing and cable housing.

 

Agreed, the clamping method I used is safer if not a little over the top but I just didn't fancy taking the motor out again after all that rigmarole. In fact, like you, I never want to have to take that motor out ever again! As I had used the styrofoam method as opposed to your safer wooded wedge, my styrofoam didn't look like it was in any condition to be reused so I had no choice. Your safer wooded wedge would no doubt have been reusable.

 

Finally got around to doing my driver side window after it just stopped. First suspicions were a burnt motor, bad connections and of course, the fuse. Instead the motor had totally seized at the top bearing (rust) but didn't take much to turn it loose. Cleaned and re-greased the gears and now works like it's brand spankers.

As others have posted, things to pay close attention to are as follows:

-Loop the cables around the spool correctly and make sure they exit the same way as before disassembly (I made this stupid mistake here). Don't ask anyone to help but instead use a couple of clamps and a basement hand rail. Too frustrating to have someone hold the cable tightly while you're wrapping your mind around what seemingly is an impossible double winding.
-Make sure you build a wedge to hold the cables in the spool to prevent unwinding. I tried the styrofoam but the best was the wing nut idea.
-No need to remove the lower pulley railing if all you need to do is pull the motor and gear train out. I still don't understand why this was necessary in other posts.
-Pay very close attention to the cable routing. Don't feel stupid if you need to do it 3 or 15 times. This is by far the hardest, most frustrating and time consuming part.
-Make sure the window attachment points on the cable line up. This is the best way to ensure you have enough cable for full up and down travel.
-Final point, re-clipping the locking mechanism takes patients and skinny fingers. A long straight screw driver will also do it.

In summary, I think the motors rarely burn out due to the less than adequate power draw hence the reason accelerators work so well. They do however corrode which beats buying a new motor. Regardless, once the motor is out, re greasing of the gear train is required.
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Hi guys, need some assitance. I have a RH drive 86 Testarossa. I am trying to remove the door trim so I can lubricate the window motors but Iam having trouble in taking out the door pocket. It just wont come out. I tried everything. Used a screwdriver to try and lift it out. I ended up splitting the corner of the door pockect. I dont want to go any further as I might cause more damage. Any suggestionon how to take it out?

 

It lifts straight out, but you have to squeeze the front and back sides in a little bit by hand to compress the plastic tabs that hold it in.

 

Thank You, I will keep trying......

 

Finally removed, and found that the window motors were already lubricated by previous owner. That was good, however, the cable was getting tangled, so I fixed this. Also the cable came out of one of the pulleys, so I'm glad I finally got around to doing this task. Like many others have said, it is a frustrating task, which I'm hoping I dont have to do again anytime soon. But If I do, It wont take as long as you get to know how it all works after taking everythig apart and putting it together again. I have to thank everyone for the great instructions...

 

Glad it worked out for you!

 

This was still a valuable thread. I removed my door panel to fix a window problem and needed to look where all the screws were. The picture with all the color arrows was helpfull.

Thanks!

 

Wow, this brings back memories.....

 

This is great thread for windows fix and now that I have just put wire back in I would like made little adjutment for these instructions:

-I just did it that wood and bolt through it, great tip that one.
-Bensine works great to remove that green goo.

I would like to add that if you remove those bolts holding lower pulleys down, where you draw washer sircules on pdf instructions, you have to adjust window wire again. What I did was to remove that spring and one pulley and did not touch adjustment att all. Wire was very easy to put back in, took me around 15 min and did it with first try.
When wire vent back, I found that you first draw it through all pulleys and then put that missing pulley back in and it slides in nicely. Then pull both pulley levers towards each other with hand and with help of pliers or drum brake tool just put that spring in.

Stongly advise to remove that green stuff out there, it is worth it.
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Hello everyone,

First of all, a big thank you to the initiator of this post and to all its contributors. Thanks to your valuable informations, I was able to reassemble, install the engine and cable on the first try!

Previously, the passenger side window would go up and down extremely slowly. The oxidation of the drum axis prevented the motor from functioning properly.

However, the problem is only half solved. Now the window goes down in less than 4 seconds, but it takes almost 11 to go up. I would be grateful if someone could suggest the cause of this slowness because I'm a bit stuck ...

 

Send me a private message with your email and I can send you some information.

Jeff

 

I forgot to specify that I had already installed a "booster" (2 relays in series in fact)

 

What kind of "booster" relays? The kind that only apply a good ground to the window motor (and still pass the +12V high current thru the window switch), or the kind that apply both a good ground and a good +12V to the window motor (and takes the window switch out of the picture so that the window switch only actuates the relays -- i.e., what Jeff Blair can supply)?

 

Hello Steve,

I followed this diagram :

 

That's the "good ground only" booster relay set-up (so resistance in the window switch contacts can be a problem for the +12V). See this thread for a technical description of the better relay solution that Jeff Blair can provide (and the relays are not buried in the doors so much easier to replace them if needed):

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/tr-slow-window-fix-adding-accelerator-relays-at-c1-and-c9.663123/#post-148665630