Lucas Oil Stabilizer

You might want to look at this before you drive it too many miles with that stuff in it.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

Alberto

 

Yoshi,
Most who have joined additive threads agree that a premium oil is adequate for most motors in relatively good condition, that being said, there is always the case of a worn engine with excessive clearances both in piston and ring and valve guide clearance as well as excessive (although more rare) bearing clearances. Then it would be advisable to attempt remedial action by using an additive like Lucas, STP and others that are viscosity improvers and are primarily polymers that thicken the oil and provide a temporary cushion for excessive clearances. Problem is that polymers shear from all the torture oil has to endure and goes away (diminishes) in a short period of time.
Probably, and it has not been completely proven in my mind is the addition of an engine additve and by the way the only additive approved by the FAA that is called Avblend, this is an additive that by itself does not alter the base oil in any way, but rather soaks into the metal at a molecular level and provides lubrication unattainable from other means. This information is provided in their litature and is not provided from my opinion.
The compound involved in this engine additive is called Boron Nitride and is of the ceramic family and is considered very slick because of its ability to form over-lapping protective platlets that are very resistant to heat and friction.
It is also reported that this compound has the ability to displace carbon with its unique lubricating properties. Again this is not an oil additive as it changes nothing in the oil but rather is reported to be an engine treatment primarily used in aircraft and the only approved by the FAA.
Products using this technology include AvBlend, Motor Silk and Z-Max.
Google these products and see if it fits your engine care protocall.

 

I'm still using Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive. Dino, regular cars, anything that runs on gas.


Don't know if it helps or not, but certainly doesn't seem to hurt.


A splash in the gas every fill up and a splash in the oil each change.


there are several threads in vintage on oil, and oil additives, a good search should turn them up.



DM.
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To Dave - Regarding Marvel Mystery Oil, I finally got my Dino back recently
after a (very) long restoration. My restorer recommended that I use about two ounces of Marvel per tankful of gas. He claims that, since the gas we are forced to use here in Wisconsin contains at least 10% ethynol and this causes it to be a very "dry" fuel, the MMO is useful as an upper cylinder lubricant to offset the ethynol.

Don't actually know if this is accurate, but he's restored quite a number of cars over the years and most of his customers are adding this stuff to their gas. Since I don't believe it can cause any real harm, I'm going to go along with him.

I have no idea about the formulation of this product, but I think it's been around for more than 50 years!

 

Use of any of the upper cylinder lubes is a very wise investment, not only does it lube the clyinders and rings but also lubes the valve guides and cushions the valves against the seats. I use it at every fill-up.

 

During a discussion on two strke gas oil mix, someone mentioned that lead in gas used to have some lubricant properties fact or fiction?

 

Yes, for older engines. Tetraethyl lead, in addition to being a cheap octane improver provided a cushioning between the valves and valve seat. The TEL would convert to lead oxide during combustion. The lead oxide is what provided the cushioning between the hard valves and the softer valves seat. Old cast iron heads typically used the parent material as the valve seat. Aluminum heads had the harder seats installed during machining. Some of those materials are softer than what is required in today's no lead gasoline era. There is more here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar993.htm

 

To put this thead back on track... Yoshi, you will find a lot of good info at bobistheoilguy.com . If you are using a good quality oil, you don't need to add anything to it. BTW, there are plenty of oils that are better and cheaper than Agip.

"Dry gas" apparantly has several meanings depending on who you talk to. For your restorer, it means lack of TEL. See my previous post.

For gasoline vendors it means there is no water in the tank. Water enters the tank through condensation or contamination. And in the old steel underground tanks, water could make its way in through corrosion and of course the gasoline would leak out causing environmental contamination.

There is a product called "dry gas" which just alcohol that is added to your car to obsorb the water in the tank or the fuel lines.

To keep water from getting in your tank in the first place, in a hot weather environment, fill up the car early in the morning when it is cool. Do not fill up your car at a station that has recieved gasoline from fuel tanker truck in the last several hours. The water and contaminants need to settle first at the bottom of the tanks.

Here is more info: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part3/

 

Where do you buy your Aqip Sint2000 from?

 

You can get it here.

http://www.americanagip.com

But the sint doesn't come in 20W-50.

DM