430 LUCKY STRIKE: BOUGHT A GEARBOX FOR $50

11th pic, remove the plate on the end of the primary shaft, pic shown removed (compare that to the 10th pic)
12th pic, remove the big nut on the primary shaft.
13th pic, now its time to remove this plate that's sandwiched between the gearbox housing and the rear cover we removed in the beginning of the job. We tried various method including the one showing in this pic. We feared that the plate-to-plate surface would be damaged if we use pry bars etc, but that's what finally worked. phew.... 2 pry bars used, but not pictured
14th pic, now this plate is off. there are 2 bearings in those 2 holes and one of them would easily come off and the other one is still stuck in there.
15th pic, the back of the plate (facing the gear sets inside the gearbox) , the black round thing is the gearbox oil pump
16th pic, now it reveals what's inside. ha
17th pic, On the other side of the gearbox, I see lots of shaves around the magnet area ( the magnet is the oil drain plug viewing from inside). Pay attention to the bronze tube as it is removed in the next pics.
18th pic, now need to work from the other side, there's a bunch of bolts that need to be removed. You need to remove the differential to see this, which we've already done.
19th pic, bolts removed. Also removed is a little oil tube we mentioned earlier. I am guessing it is a oil return tube. but im not sure. The primary shaft's clutch side half has to be removed first. It is a simple spline connection. We used a hammer. I am sure there are better tools/ways to do it, but heck i don't have it. If somebody knows what tool to use to extract the pilot bearing and the shaft it sits on, PLEASE, chime in!
20th pic, primary shaft's clutch end removed ( is there a better , technical word for this shaft?). The pilot bearing is still stuck in there. I wonder how you can remove this bearing while doing a clutch job. I never did it. What tool to extract this bearing if you aren't going to open up the gearbox?

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

21st pic , now everything is off, its time to remove the whole gear sets and rods, we don't know how to do it properly, so we become cavemen and become crude.
22nd pic, we also tried to pull from this side
23rd pic, after some pain and suffering, we got them out.
24th pic, and here's an empty case, on the bottom left, u see how the oil dipstick looks from the inside. eyes wide open, people.
25th pic, zooming in a little bit.

The end. I guess the 360 gearbox is pretty much the same.

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I am about to reply to him just now. So how do I measure it? Just a ball park?

 

now my questions are,

1nd pic, how to remove the sandwiched plate properly from this point? Pry bar the only way?
2rd pic, how to disconnect this input shaft from the primary gearbox shaft properly without using a hammer skewed on it?
3th pic, how to remove the whole gears assembly properly without having to use a hammer from the clutch side?
4th pic, I see a slice of metal ring on this differential output shaft plate, is this a result of a damage or a part of the assembly? If so, what function does it serve?
5th pic, how to pull out the pilot bearing from this side if I am not opening up the gearbox? what tool to use and where to buy it?






Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

ah ha, I found a similar transmission that has shift collar on both shafts! its a honda. But I have no idea how the reverse would work on this particular gear sets

here: https://www.j-k-tuning.com/Transmission/BTrans2.php

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

oh yea, that was easy. give me a few days

 

the entire differential is shot, and a new differential is more expensive than a used gearbox

so I guess i'll leave the gearbox as is, maybe for future spare gears.

 

1. the ATF sealing surface(metal) is damaged. it can no longer hold ATF tight in there. it will leak.
in fact when I opened the differential, it has ATF all over there

2. there are 2 roller bearings inside the differential , they are missing rollers or damaged, as pictured in previous posts.

 

Yea, it is a thrust bearing. the inside wall of the thrust bearing that are in contact with the shaft (very short and large diameter) are damaged

this is in charge of the differential lock so I don't think you can weld it. let me give you a pic

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

so, i happen to have a new plug

the outer diameter is 22mm and
2 threads=3mm, so each pitch =1.5mm
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

wow, i am in hong kong now
finally can see youtube videos. So the nascar gearbox is basically a gearset without synchronizers and kept the H pattern shift?

 

correction: the bearing that misses a lot of roller are actually called needle bearings, those rollers are called needle rollers, as I recently learned by being able to view youtube the first time in months.