Magneti Marelli S159B Distributor Help Needed | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Magneti Marelli S159B Distributor Help Needed

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by robertgarven, Mar 9, 2008.

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  1. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

    Oct 29, 2004
    5,379
    NWA
    Full Name:
    Paul
    I answered your question above. The sharper lobes would have a different dwell period if the gaps were equal.

    As to the marks not aligning, same deal. The square cam you show in your pictures is rotated further to the right than the "normal" cam. Because the distributors rotate clockwise, the square cam would advance timing even further.

    Marelli distributors like these date back many decades using many of the same basic parts, and cover cars from Lancia, Fiat, Alfa, Maserati, Lamborghini, Ferrari, and possibly others. Those square cams could virtually be out of almost anything, from almost any era.
     
  2. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,284
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    Well I have all the parts for the A, B & C units. I will start by checking the curves for the "C" units then maybe put the guts from the A units in the new "C" cups. All I want is the car to run well. Thanks for the tips. I just talked to the guy I bought my Sun machine from he is in the process of rebuilding 30 machines if anyone is interested... Steve and Paul which advance do you think would be the best performing?

    Rob
     
  3. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,284
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    #28 robertgarven, Jun 13, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have a new question I have 8 distributors and none of the pairs have the same pin weight combination. I want to start out stock. Does anyone know for sure exactly the correct pin weight orientation.

    I did something very stupid. I had a NOS set of S 159 A units which were for the early gt4, I took a set of pin/weights out of one and put into another used set i had to test on my old Allen distributor machine. Unfortunately
    i set them aside and fast forward a couple of years I had a friend working at TR in GA. They had some rebuilt units so I used my pair of used ones as a core and bought the rebuilt ones. One of the original A units I could never get apart as the screws were frozen when I finally got around to getting the screws out (pen torch) I retested both units and the one I had taken apart earlier did not match the original measurements I took I started looking at my photos from then and realized I traded the new unworn pins/weights & springs keeping the worn ones in the new housing!

    Mi intention was to drop the two NOS "A" unit guts into the NOS "C" units I got and see what the difference was from my original "hot rodded" set pictured in an above post with only 2 pins. Why I am upset is that the NOS "A" unit pins were in a different location than my other sets and I have no control set to use. The rebuilt units I just took apart and they turned out to be worn bad and did not spec out and had different internals from each other
    but were both missing a spring on one pin (see pic below). BTW I mislabeled the dog drive guts they are "A" not "B"

    I still have the "C" units but I am STILL trying to figure out why they have such radical cam profiles and they only have 3 pins per unit?? I told petter I was thinking about dumping all the parts in a coffee can and reaching and grabbing some and trying to go from there. I am just joking but seeing as all my units are different not sure that would be any different.

    If anyone knows the correct location let me know. I think the photo of my org. set with the two pins below that Mike F. annotated is wrong also, however I am not sure...

    Ironically there is a tech article in the FCA Prancing Horse about this that come today but nothing on the pin orientation. It is by Bill Barduski does anyone have his e-mail??
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  4. Moku

    Moku Karting

    Dec 17, 2004
    107
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Full Name:
    Rob & Jody
    I'm confused...

    You've got a nice machine that was designed to give you the exact answer that you're seeking here. Why not take the time to spin them up yourself?

    Yes, I've got the info you want. PM me. But why not use that pretty machine Mark sold you? :)

    Rob
     
  5. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    John Corbani
    Rob,
    I have a V6 Dino but have spent a lot of time on the dis. First, if two distributors have to play together, they should be identical except if there is an angular difference of cams as noted in the book (not probable.) Second, if you want a two stage advance, there must be two weights with two springs. One in each distributor does not count. If you want same dwell, cam profiles must match. Static setting of each distributor begins the process. TDC of the timing cylinder should have the rotor aiming at the right cylinder. On both banks in turn. If you have that, the points should have the right gap and should open within the adjustment range of the dis. slots. Sounds like you have one each of too many distributor parts. All distributors have vaguely interchangeable parts. Start slow and easy. See you in a few weeks.
    John
     
  6. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    Robert:
    I've been following this thread for some time, but up to now didn't have anything to contribute. If you remember correctly, a couple of years ago you sent me one of your distributors and I checked it on my Allen Synchrograph. It was the one with only 2 pin/spring sets which I annotated in the picture you provided (I didn't have a handy pic of one with all 4 pin/spring sets in it). I was looking for something in common in all three distributors I had to test which would explain how the advance curve was implemented. I measured everything and finally came to the conclusion that the clearance between the pin and the inside wall of the distributor determined when in the RPM range that particular pin/spring came into play. That's what I've annotated in the picture.

    When I tested and mapped the advance curves of my distributors I found that one was advancing more rapidly than the other in (I think) the 2000 RPM range. I identified the pin associated with that rpm range and placed a small brass washer at the base of the spring where it enters the swing arm, thus increasing the height of the pin and causing it to come in contact with the inner surface of the distributor case earlier, applying the spring pressure to decrease the rate of advance. When I tested it back on the Allen it had, indeed decreased the rate of advance in the specified RPM range - but too much. I disassembled the distributor again, lapped a few thousandths off the washer and retested - and got the results I wanted. This procedure confirmed (to me at least) that I had correctly identified the mechanism of the advance.

    I agree with John and Moku. Assemble the distributors and map the advance curves, checking the advance every 500 distributor RPM. Make the adjustments as suggested above, matching 2 distributors exactly.
     
  7. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,284
    Ventura, California
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    Robert Garven
    #32 robertgarven, Jun 16, 2008
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2008
    Mike,

    Moku set me some figures which I only briefly got to look at, and I really appreciate all the help and time you have spent guiding me over the years. I guess my question was since I had 4 sets of distributors all with the pins in different locations, what is the actual factory pin weight relationship as a baseline to start with? In my feeble mind it seems weird that the first pins to have contact would not both be on the end of the pendulums (weights) and the next ones to contact would be on the shoulder near the shaft the weight rides on...

    The more time i spend on this the more confused I have become. It makes timing gears look like a walk in the park!!

    Rob
     
  8. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    Rob

    I didn't have the equipment to properly test the spring tensions, but I did notice the lower RPM springs were made of a lighter gauge wire, hence would have less resistance. My theory is that as the RPM increases the lighter weight springs compress, then as centrifugal (centripital?) force increases the heavier weight springs are engaged. I did notice my springs were all about the same length (which gave me the idea to measure the clearance to the inside of the distributor body). I think the geometry causes the weights to slide out along the slots in the slotted rotor, rather than pivot on it. The pivot point seems to be the spot on the arm where it contacts the inner surface of the distributor body.

    The distributors you sent me were missing 2 spring/pin sets. Clearly, someone had "tuned" them, and the advance curve didn't look anything like what's in the shop manual.The other ones you acquired seem to have been the victims of the same kind of "tuning." #5 and #6 are each missing a spring in what I think is the 1000-1700 RPM range (2000-3400 crank RPM). I'm willing to bet the advance curve jumps up (advances) in that range outside the published tolerances. Map their curves and let me know.

    #4 has an awful short spring in the upper left- I can't tell the RPM range it affects because it doesn't have the yellow paint dab. I'm going to guess it is in the 2300-3000 RPM range (4600-6000 crank RPM) and was done to increase the max advance. #7 is missing that pin/spring combo altogether and probably advances even more than that. I don't think its a good idea to mess with the factory advance curves, because they are matched to the cam profiles. Others on this board, especially those with programmable electronic ignition, may have other ideas and experience.

    I'm assuming you just want to get two good, reliable distributors with advance curves exactly matched. you've got quite a collection of springs, pins and cups. I would pick out the two least worn distributors, and build the advance mechanisms up from scratch. Pick the best looking (least worn) pins and cups. Your #4 might be a good place to start. Map the curves and make adjustments with washers until you get the profile in the manual. Then do a second one.

    I found the graduations on my Allen were not discrete enough to accurately map small differences in the advance. So I made a paper arc segment graduated in 1/2 degree and pasted it on the degree wheel. I also used an external tach/dwell because I don't trust the 50-year old tube electronics in the Allen. When I get the chance I'm going to upgrade the electronics to digital - but that's just one more item on my list.
     

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