Major Service engine in 348

Well just to clear the air, there seems to be some concern that you could not remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with the engine in the car due to the crossmember. It can be done, now let me tell you how my master tech did it.

The problem is NOT that you can't get the bolt out, the problem is that you can't get the bolt loose with an impact wrench no room for the air wrench. Soo my very creative tech took a offset box wrench the proper size of the bolt head and cut the opposite end of the wrench off. Then using a length of pipe to slide over the wrench handle you can break the bolt loose. It will unscrew and you can remove the bolt once unscrewed. He did set the e brake and put the transmission is reverse.

The next issue you will come across is the removal of the crank pulley. It is to big in diameter to slide past the cross member. 1st, using a caliper measure the distance between the back of the pulley and the timing cover so you know when reinstalling the pulley it is seated at the correct depth. So the next trick is to loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor 3/4th of and inch and the pulley then clears the crossmember and you are good to go.

To reinstall 1st, you MUST clean the threads in the crankshaft of and debris clean the bolt threads as well the trick here is to clean both sets of threads so that you can hand screw the bolt all the way in. I can not impress enough how important this part of the procedure is, cleanliness is next to godliness according to my dead mother!!!!! We used a tap and die to just clear the threads not to remove any threads. There are threading taps and dies DO NOT use these, you want to use thread cleaning taps and dies or well worn ones. We used both brake clean and compressed air after our cleaning of both threads. Before you slide the pully on test the threads by screwing the bolt in with your HAND double checking that there are no burrs or restrictions on the threads, the bolt should screw in easily all the way to the bottom. Now lift the motor again and slide the pulley on then hand screw the bolt to seat it in. Now make sure the pulley is seated and checking you previous caliper measurement on the pulley. Then using a torque wrench you can tighten the bolt to the proper torque, that is the nastiest part of the entire job.

At this point you have done the worst part of the job and now its exterior belts some hoses and fluids and get ready to light it off.

Now some will say the best way is to drop the motor and I would not argue that point, it happens that we elected to do it our way and it worked for us. I am not suggesting one way or another so you pick you poison and do which ever way you choose, please don't shoot the messenger. I only offer my opinion and if you add 15 cents to my free opinion you still can't get a cup of coffee at Micky D's.

just sayin'

brsscarguy

 

This was a major service, timing belts. acc belts, idlers, guides water pump, cam seals valve adjust and hoses. By removing the gas tank I replaced the failing rubber boots surrounding the fuel pumps. We also tig welded the timing belt guides on the sprockets. Included were spark plugs and wires, fuel filters and air filter.

brasscarguy

 

If you had read all of my prior posts I had to remove the fuel tank to reboot the 2 fuel pumps. So it was just as easy to do the belt service that way. As I also said to each his own do it what ever way you feel comfortable with. I just wanted the 348 clan to know there is another way to go if for some reason they are unable due to space or equipment to drop the motor.

And yes we did check and reset the timing very accurately using both a degree wheel and dial indicators, as indicated here before the factory marks are "not exactly" accurate. I think from my point of view , this was an easy way to go.

I really suggest anyone that uses ethanol fuel strongly consider removing your fuel tank and reboot the fuel pumps with Ricambi's new boots. I have never used ethanol fuel since I have owned my 348, but still the boots were desinagrating and very small rubber bits were sloshing around in the bottom of my tank. These pieces were small enough to cause downstream issues.

I only offered my point of view for a 348 service, I don't suggest you follow my way or not, as I said before I only offered another option which worked for me.

just sayin'

brasscarguy

 

If you had read all of my prior posts I had to remove the fuel tank to reboot the 2 fuel pumps. So it was just as easy to do the belt service that way. As I also said to each his own do it what ever way you feel comfortable with. I just wanted the 348 clan to know there is another way to go if for some reason they are unable due to space or equipment to drop the motor.

And yes we did check and reset the timing very accurately using both a degree wheel and dial indicators, as indicated here before the factory marks are "not exactly" accurate. I think from my point of view , this was an easy way to go.

I really suggest anyone that uses ethanol fuel strongly consider removing your fuel tank and reboot the fuel pumps with Ricambi's new boots. I have never used ethanol fuel since I have owned my 348, but still the boots were desinagrating and very small rubber bits were sloshing around in the bottom of my tank. These pieces were small enough to cause downstream issues.

I only offered my point of view for a 348 service, I don't suggest you follow my way or not, as I said before I only offered another option which worked for me.

just sayin'

brasscarguy