From your statement, I understand that you see signs of oil in the flywheel and therefore assume that the triple seals are leaking, but then there is no sign of an actual leak at the triple seals. This got me thinking and it's only a theory based on a strange conversation I had when I bought a jar of the same Redline grease from a local shop. The salesman asked me what I was using it for. I told him that I was considering regreasing a Ferrari flywheel (never did), he cautioned that his experience with this grease was not good. He stated that it thins out very easily under heat, based on his past experience. If he was correct, it is possible that you are seeing the oil separate/bleed from the grease binder. Your seals may not be leaking.
Don't think so, the oil sings are starting in the centre at the bearings so must be from the triple seals. If you take a close look at the photo's you can see hte oil in the middle.
As seabass23 said, I've seen oil separating from Redline grease as well. I'm not saying that's what happened here-- just confirming the statement for future reference.
Correct but the oil comes from the centre inside the bearings. There is was grease. Image Unavailable, Please Login
As far as i can see this is the path of the oil. Why it doens't return true the first bearing ??? Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you had oil where you indicated, then it looks like triple seal leak (possibly due to some overfill of the gearbox oil). In my case (which, I believe, was the first time removing the flywheel, 13k miles), the gearbox oil had traveled as far as under the cap of the large flywheel bearing due to triple seals.
For me it is only after 100 km !!. Like is said the gearbox oil was lightly overfilled ( at 110% when cold ! ) so i lowered the oil level a bit to 90% from max when cold. I think even lower won't be a problem but i leave it like this. Cold it be possible a pressure builds up due to heat in the gearbox? No simple seal like the triple seals will hold against pressure. Has it a vent?
If you can rig-up something (a large rubber hose) to seal over the input shaft, you could apply air pressure and see (listen) whether it comes out of the vent; or monitor the air pressure loss.
To not damage any seals i am going to assemble the clutch section on the car. Pictures say it all. You can put on the o-ring and the triple seal with the clutch already on the shaft. Just see that the bolts align and the markings i made for balance to assemble the flywheel. You still can see the tape on the bolts i used for assembling and re-greasing the flywheel. This time with Kluber grease. Last time is put the pumpkin on also on the car. Heating up the main bearing a bit worked like a charm. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Started the car today. Starts very good cold and hot but !!!!!!!! knocking sound from he flywheel when stopping the engine is identical as before. :-( Maybe a bit less but hard to tell. I will wait some time to see if the kluber grease distributes a bit but this is not looking good. And no the springs and plastic blocs are not warn out. Before the major service the engine never ever had any problem starting al the time i have it. I did never pay attention if the knocking sound was present before the major i have to admit so maybe it was present also before. Next time i will weld it fixed. Finito this stupid system.
I believe you have put in sufficient quantity of Kluber grease (200 - 230 grams, I think). It is possible that you are now paying too much attention to any knock sound on engine switch off. To hear a few brief knocks (not longer rattle) is normal, I think, and it comes from the transmission, not the flywheel. My 348 had clear prolonged rattle when stopping the engine (and a hot start problem) before I re-greased the flywheel. After new grease, no starting issues or rattles but I do hear a very brief click-clack when stopping the engine which, I am sure, is just the gears and the various clearances in the transmission knocking at each other before they come to rest. I haven't tried it, but you can see if there is a change in the knocking you hear when you stop the engine with the clutch pedal depressed and the transmission held in gear.
I put in 200gr of Kluber grease so that should be fine. Put it also in like on the many photo's. Maybe i am listening to carefully. Hopefully the hot start problems don't come back. Will wait and see.
Hello I am tensioning my belt and I am wondering about the correct tension procedure. I had a look with the spring at its fullest extension after a the belt has rest all night less tensioned (don't know if it plays) and I found a tension of 140hz on the tensioner side and 190 on the idler side, which is too high I guess. I lowered the tension and I got 85hz on the tensioner side and 155hz on the other one. To go to something like 130/140hz on the idler side will get me quite loose belt on the tensioner side. Is it the correct thing to do? I am doubtful because in the WSM they show the staeger picture on the tensioner side which looks to be the slack side.. Thanks!
This is where I measured the freq. Always turn the engine in the correct direction.Never backwards. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello Thanks very much for your reply Cauf61 Yes using google translate on the italian in the WSM makes more sense and I understand they are putting the staeger on both big spans and summing the two which makes sense. However this is not helping my case and I am quite confused!! I checked the frequency formula you are mentioning and I am fine with the results but I am quite confused about it because I tried to translate it to the 575M (I measured a span of 285mm on the WSM drawings instead of 190mm for the 348) and the 126Hz is then giving something like 800N! But if I trust this figure, I tried several times and even after making a few engine cycles, if I want to have the idler span frequency around 130/140Hz, I need to have the tensioner secured in a position that is very close to its initial settling position - maybe even in a shorter position (after pushing it a little) and this is not consistent at all with the "fullest extension" procedure of the WSM. And then my tensioner span is quite loose since I don't feel really tension in it and has some play. I have the feeling you went through the same problem since your initial tension frequency was 173Hz like I was having. Did you have to compress back the tensioner to a position close to its initial settling to achieve the final 137Hz? Or did you removed the belt and do it all again? Do you remember having the tensioner span also quite loose like I describe? I recall beeing very much surprised when I removed the old belt since the tensioner span was really loose and the belt moving from almost a inch when turning the crank pulley but I am really unsure setting the belt with this span already quite loose from new..!! Thanks for your help!
Hi , Can you manufacturer a chain pad for 308 dry-sump (part number 136196) Best regards, Mário Melo.
