Anybody knows the torque setting for this bolt ? I think it's function is a "lock" for the center bolt or to set a preload on the main bearing? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I should clarify, this is for 60mm clutch ring nut. It only takes some minor dremel work to the inside of the teeth.
It is not shown in the work shop manual but within these forums, I have seen it stated to be between 50 and 60 ft-lbs (152 ft-lbs / 206 Nm is for the big ring nut itself). Hopefully someone else can confirm. 348 CLUTCH TROUBLE
The torque for the main hollow bolt (ring nut head) is 200 NM, with the centre bolt out. Then install and torque the centre bolt to 70-80 NM (say 75 NM). The main bolt, based on its thread size, could take much more than 200 NM but it cannot be tightened higher than 200 NM because it has a relatively thin head (the head would collapse). As more than 200 NM is necessary to properly clamp the flywheel to the bearing, the initial 200 NM is topped-up by the torque brought into the body of the main bolt by the centre bolt without increasing the force on the main bolt head. The centre bolt basically increases the pressure (and friction) in the main bolt threads and creates a situation as if the main bolt is torqued higher than 200 NM.
Thx You all think it is possible to assemble the pumpkin with bearing after the clutch pack is put on the shaft ? Image Unavailable, Please Login
If to try this way, I would get a longer threaded rod and install it first in the flywheel spigot as a guide for the cover and to also be able to lift the assembly up a bit as it will be sagging slightly. I would also make a cone, to go snug over the threaded rod, to centre the spigot to the bearing inner race and for the initial small pull-in using a suitable nut. Then I would remove the cone and complete the pull-in (push-over) with the nut and a large thick washer. Probably doable.
Cauf61, if you haven't installed the centre screw in the ring nut, could you please measure it? I'd like to replace mine, the hex is in rough shape.
Personally I think it’s a horrible idea if you are asking what I’m picturing. You want to press the bearing into the pumpkin housing then use the bolts to pull the pumpkin on pressing the flywheel shaft into the bushing? All the force you apply with the bolts trying to press the bushing in will go against your throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers won’t it? I think that’s more force than I would want to apply there. I’d just do it the right way. Press your flywheel and pumpkin together first then setup your clutch stack. Spend $10 on a clutch alignment tool, don’t get off course and break something just trying to be different.
Hello You're thought is right but you are wrong. The bearing is in the pumpkin already. So i would be pulling the shaft in to the bearing with the central bolt (thus pulling backwards on the clutch pack not pushing) and not forcing on the TO bearing. In fact heating the bearing up and cleaning the shaft , i think there will be not much pulling needed. Second , i don't see why i need an alignment tool as the pack is already assembled and bolted together and back on the shaft. If you do that like i did "on the shaft" or assembled in the pumpkin makes no difference for the pack itself at all. I would only try this because i read about people who have trouble to align both the pumpkin and clutch pack in at the same time. Or do it with alignment bolts like Stojanovic did. Just an idea i am going to test out.
Yeah, I see I missed your post about using the large bolt, I just read the last one and was picturing you pulling it on with the pumpkin bolts. What would be the advantage of trying to do it this way? Just to put the clutch pack on by itself first? I’ve had my 348 setup on and off 5 -6 times and it’s pretty easy to slide the whole assembly on especially once you’ve done it once and get a feel for it. And that’s with a twin disc. Just get it as close as you can with an alignment tool, tighten down, and slide it on while wiggling it and using a finger to slowly rotate the flywheel/assembly and it will slide right on. Usually there are reasons behind why things are done in a certain tried and tested way. Sometimes the reasons are not realized until you are a lot of work in and discover you are just pissing into the wind and have to go back and do it the way you should have all along. Let us know how it works for you.
Hi It is a 12mm hex bolt with ( i think) 1mm fine thread and 25 mm long. Steel 10,9 or higher of course.
Hi Clutch is on. Worked like a charm. Easy to manipulate the pack without pumpkin. Afterwards heat the bearing a bit , lubricate the shaft and tighten the centre bolt. Then tighten the pumpkin bolts. ! Easy Image Unavailable, Please Login
STUPID STUPID STUPID !!!!! As a novice i let drop a washer in the left head. I can't find it anywhere so i think it has gone in this hole. Anybody has the correct diameter of this hole in the head !! not engine block ( so i can verify if it's possible it went in there ) and where does it end. I think it is a oil channel that go's down to the oil pan ? I my case the head was assembled of course. Picture is only to show position of the hole. Image Unavailable, Please Login
It was this one that jumped between my cover in the engine and gone !! Thx to RGigante for the pictures. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Perhaps you can try fishing for it with a long flexible magnet, something like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login I once dropped a cam follower (front wheel drive car) and it went into a large oil drain opening in the head straight down into the sump (I heard a "bonk" when it hit the bottom). Got it out with this tool.
