There’s a 99.999999999% chance that if that is where it fell it will just sit down there quietly and never cause a problem. You should see some of the things I’ve found inside engines. Especially stuff hanging out in the oil pans.
Removed the oil pan again and there it was. Grrrrrrrrr Dropped all the way down true the oil evacuation channel. Going to leave the oil pan removed until all the cams are assembled. Not 2 times
I know but i wasn't 100% sure where it went, so no risk and removed the oil pan again. Tadaaaa...........
Absolutely sure it's not on the floor, in the cylinder, under the camshaft, or elsewhere? I've scared the crap out of myself doing this, too. **Edit** Never mind, sounds like you found it, thank goodness! What a relief.
All cams installed and timing is set. Valve clearance is ok. Everything lubed with assembly lube. Next tensioners and belt. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Belt is on and cam timing is spot on. My stooge way to compress the tensioner. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New rear brake lines. A real PITA to change. Had to heat up ( very hot ) every connection to disassemble. All corroded. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Belt tension : Can anybody confirm my setting of the belt tensioner. I turned the crank clockwise and watched the tensioner. While turning the crank the tensioner moves a little bit in and out. I blocked the tensioner when he was at maximum outwards. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I understand that your "maximum outwards" means the tensioner is at its "maximum into the belt". I think the tensioner is "jumping" because of the effect of the valve springs onto the camshafts, pushing them forward at some points of rotation (when the lobes are downhill) which pulls the tensioner a bit. I believe what you have done is correct (if maximum into the belt), at the point when there was no interference by the camshafts running ahead.
Hi M Indeed, maximum in the direction of the yellow arrow, so in to the belt. You are right, the resistance in the movement of the cams/springs makes the tension in the belt going up and down a bit when rotating the engine by hand. Only problem i have is that the tension is a bit high for my feeling when i do it this way. Also the res freq is at +-170Hz (measured with an guitar tuning app ) this way witch gives a calculated force of 660 Newton => to high.In the SKF catalogue if find for a compatible timing belt (H150) somewhere between 380 and 460 N ( old and new belt) . This would give an freq about 130 Hz as also advised by Rui from Portugal here on the forum. I can't find anything about the load in the Dayco catalogue. The Dayco belt is 28mm large, 1.73m long and weight 271 gram. Span is measured 19cm. More info when you google the SKF belt frequency meter.The formula is very simple. T = 4 * m* l2 * f2 Comments are welcome.
It is possible that the tensioner spring is designed to provide some extra tension during installation to allow for the belt's teeth bedding-in and its initial small stretch (both causing some loss of tension) during the initial period of the engine run.
I just checked the Manual, it appears to agree with me (Page B67): "Tighten screw 1 (Fig. 49) when the idler is stretched to its fullest extent. The correct tension is applied to the belt when it is in this position." On the tension, it states that (Page B56): "The tension of a new belt should be 140 + 160 (addition of the values read on both lines of the STAEGER tensiometer)." O the tension check (this is bold in the manual): "For obtaining correct readings, ensure that the engine is positioned with cylinder no. 1 in combustion T.D.C. position by turning in the right rotation direction, without going backwards." It also talks about the "initial working slack" and allows tension to drop but to no less than 110%. It is not clear what this means in relation to the readings on the Staeger valua of 140-160. I guess it means should not drop below Staeger 110. So, it looks like you have tensioned it correctly and should not be concerned.
Thx M Very poor data (close to nothing from Dayco , some from SKF) to be found on the freq/force of timing belts.
Redid the belt together with a friend mechanic. He told me also it is ok. Measured the belt freq = 137Hz. Taking the formula gives +- 424 N force. Witch is a normal value i found on the SKF site for this type of timing belt. ( 380-460N) So must be good. Comments welcome.
Rebuild continues. Changed the 2 crank sensors for KIA sensors as the connectors were bad. Gap was ok. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Patrick - Great thread. Did you ever get an answer for these or if not, what did you decide to go for?
Yes the oil pump gear i torqued to 65 Nm and the timing shaft to 115 Nm. I use loctite 243 on all vital connections ! http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?55358-348-Torque-Settings
Thanks, forgot about that one! Can I ask what you used for the 17mm, 13mm and 10mm on the sump pan? Logic would tell me to tighten the 17mm first in order to pull the pan towards the gearbox seal, then tighten the 13mm's to the pan.
