major service tools

Hi Bret,

Welcome to the chat. There is nothing remotely like a chilton/clymer/haynes manual for the 308, (although i have heard rumors of just such a manual, possibly forthcoming from Verell at Unobtanium - holds breath .

So, your best source for information is to use the search tool on the top left of this page and work to gather bits of information, tips and techniques, not only from amatures, (like most of us), but some real gems from some of the professionals gracious (and patient enough), to post here.

You might list the operations in the major, then persue posts. Each one will offer a slightly different take, tips, techniques and tools. I have a huge drawer filled with maintenance and performance threads, unfortunately only partially organized.

This is a lot like working on a really nice old house, the construction is realatively straight forward, but often there is a lot of prior neglect/ poor technique or just plain old worn out stuff, so what originally started out as a simple tune up or coolant change uncovers roted hoses, coolant pipes almost worn through, lazy thermostats, poor electrical connections at the fans and sensors - Be prepared for every operation to get a bit more complex/expensive and time consuming.

I do not mean this to be an indictment of Ferraris, i think almost any 30 year old car would follow a similar path. Ours is just a bit more tightly built/stressed and loved.

Don't let this put you off, I would buy the same car again in a heartbeat.

Ask away
chris

 

Sockets and wrenches

10mm
13mm
8mm
17mm
19mm
12mm hex socket
10mm hex socket
22mm socket
36mm Socket
metric feeler gauges
shim bucket compressor
flat head screw driver
philips screw driver
needle nose plyers
normal pilers
fridge
beer
gasket sealer
light
jack stands
floor jack
drain buckets
service manual
food
chips
salsa
bandaids
gauze
stiches
engine cleaner
peroxide
paint
masking tape
and anything else you may need...

 

LMAO !

Don't forget a hacksaw.

 

Can't help you with procedures, too many to list. You have to search. I can help you with tools:

Valve adjustment tools: set of two, depressor, and hook-spacer Special tools.
accurate calipers and micrometers
Set of metric gauges for valve clearance measurements
If you want to change seals: seal picker
If you want to change bearings for the cam drive pulleys: a very special bearing puller, mostly home-made (and you need to search for that dimension)
For regular handtools:

3/8 inch metric sockets, 8mm to 19mm short and long, flexible is good too
wobble extension set, 3/8 inch
3/8 inch ratchet: short, long, flexible
1/2 inch ratchet: long, extra long
1/4 ratchet: short, skinny and a set of 1/4 sockets, with some extensions
metric wrenches: combination, ratcheting as well as standard, deep offset, and a few of the moon shaped ones too (13mm, 17mm, 19mm)
1/2 socket 22mm, 24mm, 27mm, 36mm
You will want a compressor up to 150 psi
And, an impact gun, 1/2 at least good for 600 ft-lbs of reverse torque
Screw drivers all all types all lenths,
picks: long, 90 degrees, hook
Torque wrench: 2, one small, one large
Snap ring plyers, while you are at it, all pliers known to mankind

I am sure I forgot something, but someone else will jump in.

 

Oops, I know what I forgot: a healthy supply of 4 letter words.

 

More beer!

 

Just a few random add-ons to what's already been suggested:

1. A heavy dose of patience.
2. A digital camera to keep a record of things BEFORE you take them apart. It's always good to know where they go back later on.
3. The parts manual (file can be downloaded for free, do a search here to find the link to one of the sites). It's the only source of information on how things are put together, exploded views are worth a 1000 words.
4. A good set of basic metric tools. You really don't need to go out and buy a whole lot of specialized tools.
5. Two good torque wrenches, one for heavy torquing (ft lbs.), one lightweight one (inch lbs.) for small items like the valve cover nuts, cam cap nuts, etc.
6. Large bottle of scotch (or other liquor of your choice) to augment the beer. For those moments when you throw up your hands and say "F this". One or two shots, walk away, come back tomorrow and it will all make sense.
7. Large and small plastic zip-lock bags and a black permanent magic marker, to bag up and identify everything that you remove from the engine/car. Don't forget to mark the output shafts as left and right/inboard/outboard ends if you remove them, which you'll need to do if you pull the engine or want to change the boots.

Have fun. And remember, these are just cars. If you know how to work on cars, you'll see that most things are the same as on any other car. The parts may be different, but the concept is basically the same. Take your time, break it down into discrete tasks, and do one thing at a time. Before you know it, you'll be done.

 

credit card ;-)

 

http://www.camerafilters.com/ec/ofsm.htm

 

You remove all the studs from the timing case cover of the forward bank, Double nut them out.
You remove the main pulley from the crank shaft
You don't have to remove the water pump, but all the water pump hoses and pipes have to go.

Then you can swing the AC compressor far enough out of the way to remove the front timing cover.

Heave %^* heave $%^# heave %$#!!

 

OR, do it my way and just remove that POS!

JIM