Manifold install questions

1. Is there a torque pattern for installing ? 18 ftlbs torque value ?

2. Once manifolds are installed do you need to re-torque after first test run ?

3. Right side install requires dropping or temporarily moving oil tank out of the way ?

4. Can oil tank be removed without draining?

thanks for any advice

 

I just got done doing this, see current thread for discussion (https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/too-nice-to-put-on-the-car.574438/). There's no mention in the 355 WSM regarding tightening pattern or torque value. I ended up tightening them up starting from the inner manifold nuts to the outer, alternating side to side. 18 ft/lb is the appropriate torque for an M8 x 1.25 fastener, however, only the lower nuts can be accessed with a torque wrench (using extensions/universal joint/wobble/etc) so the uppers will need to be done by feel (actually one of the uppers can be accessed with a torque wrench). Not sure about questions #3 and 4 as I did mine with the engine out.

 

No torque pattern, although I don't think those copper nuts take 25 Nm
No retorque needed
Oil tank stays, oil radiator comes out along with the fan
Oil tank cannot be removed without draining but it stays.

 

Thanks guys


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I did it without removing the RH oil cooler, but the fan did come out. It was definitely a tight squeeze.

 

The exhaust manifold nuts are not made of copper but steel, Grade 8.8 at least, so they can take 25 Nm no problem. The "copper" is just some kind of plating (possibly copper) which disappears very quickly anyway.

 

Mitchel what torque would you recommend for the exhaust manifold nuts? I used 18 ft/lb (25 Nm) based on specs in the WSM for fasteners with the same diameter/thread pitch as well as Brian Crall's recommendations from prior posts. See post #17: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/help-with-exhaust-leaks-warped-nouvalari-header.501216/

After removing the original exhaust manifold nuts I can assure you that it took more than 18 ft/lbs to get them to release.

 

I have never been able to use a torque wrench on those nuts due to the space. I just use a number of wrenches to get them to break loose, and to tighten again. So with a 6 inch - 8 inch wrench, yank them tight and that is it.

 

Correct.

 

Yep, what ever they are they are definitely strongly feromagnetic. Thank goodness that they are as it was handy to use a magnetic extension tool to get some of the harder to reach nuts in position and then spin them on the stud with a free finger tip.

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