Maserati Indy thread

A logical conclusion, as it’s the only way it can work. The other cars I have had, including my Fulvia Zagato which uses the same Battani jack fits at a right angles to the sill, which is what confused me. Thanks for your assistance

 

Happy New Year!

I have now completed 1000 kms in my Indy 4.2, and seek clarification in regards to the re-torquing of the cylinder head and valve clearances. In the Indy handbook this is mentioned as a service procedure at 10,000 kms, however in US literature for the later Khamsin and Bora it stipulates 1,000 kms… as the engines are from the same family what would be advisable?

 

I like to retorque the heads the next day after the first warm up and then again after 500 miles. If you already put 1,000 kms go ahead and retorque the heads. I would not hurt to retorque them again after 10,000 kms. Good that you are driving the car!

Ivan

 

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated as always.

Mark

 

I recently ordered a replacement oil pressure sender for my Indy (the type that screws into a banjo fitting held to the block by the low oil pressure switch, I believe the Bora is similar) However the new sender FAE brand is marked 0-8 which I assume is 0-8 bar, as the gauge is marked 0 - 11 bar (0-160 psi) I’m concerned this will cause the gauge to under or over state the oil pressure?

 

The original sending units have not been available for a long time. The unit you have will work but the gauge reading will be too high. You could take a reading using a mechanical pressure gauge at 3,000 rpms and then compare it with the reading using the sending unit. Adding a series resistor to the sending unit would then bring the gauge reading down. It will only be accurate at 3,000 rpms but that is better than the alternative.

Ivan

 

Thank you Ivan, your reply and advice is much appreciated.

Mark

 

My Indy is fitted with the ZF S5- 20 5 speed manual transmission and while gear changes are smooth when warmed up, while cold it’s a little hard to shift. I’ve had success swapping to synthetic gear oil in my Lancia Fulvia, any gear oil suggestions for the Indy that may improve the quality of the shift?
Cheers Mark

 

My Indy behaves the same.
Not surprised however, it takes some time for all that mechanics to warm up and you have to respect it, the gearbox taking the longest time and you have then to change gears slowwwly.
But when warm, the shifts are swift and creamy!
I have not myself considered full synthetics for the gearbox.

 

Redline MTL helped quite a bit with the ZF 5 speed in my Biturbo. Redline makes great stuff and you used to be able to call and talk to their tech guy. Now ?????????????????????????????? Like everything else.

 

I also went to Redline MTL for my E-Type 3.8, a well-known tip within the E-Type community.
That car has indeed an antique Moss gearbox with non-syncro first gear.
In that case after a few hundred miles the behaviour of the gearbox increased substantially.

 

Thank you, good to know that other gearboxes are the same

 

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

Don't worry, ZF gearbox from period are hard to shift when cold. I never tried Redline MTL. I'll do that...

 

Another cooling fan question…

On the early Indy (4.2) there are two pusher fans mounted in front of the radiator (similar to the early Ghibli I think) There are also two ‘otter switches’ (same switches as the E type Jag) mounted one above the other on the left hand side of the radiator (drivers side on a LHD car). There are also two relays as part of th circuit.

My actual question is regarding the correct operation of the cooling fans…

I assume one cooling fan switches on/off when the AC is turned on/off?

While the two ‘otter switches’ switch on both cooling fans when 90c is reached, then off at 80c?

Is this a correct assumption as currently only one fan comes on when temp reaches 90c the other only when the AC is switched on.

My final question is whether it’s worthwhile replacing the ‘otter switches’ with more modern Thermo switches like the ‘Coolcat’ conversion offered for Jaguars?

Mark

 

I assume the Indy is wired similarly to the Ghibli where one radiator thermo (Otter) switch controls only one fan. A quick test is to ground each Otter switch individually and verify that a fan turns on. I like to put a jumper wire between the two relays so that when either thermo switch triggers both fans turn on. Otter switches have a high mortality rate so the cool cat alternative is a more reliable solution. Maserati stopped using Otter switches on the later cars.

Ivan

 

Thanks Ivan, I like the ‘jumper wire’ idea to ensure both fans run.

 

Wheel bolt torque

I have been unable to find the ‘torque specs’ for the wheel bolts for the Maserati Indy, any thoughts?

Note my Indy has the 14 inch diameter ‘Borrani Dial’ wheels fitted.

Mark

 

Thought I’d share some pics of an original unrestored 4.2 litre Indy (RHD Auto with power steering) that was picked up from the Maserati factory by the original owner and driven around Europe on holidays before coming to Australia. I first saw this car 25 years ago and tried to purchase it, sadly missed out, but good to see its well looked after and cherished. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login [ATTACH=full

 

That's a great color!

 

Here’s another 4.2 litre Indy from my archives. Believed to be the first right hand drive Indy produced and still in the hands of the original owner Ray Gulson, who ordered it new through the importer Alec Mildren in Sydney. Ray was also a Maserati agent, and I saw this actual Indy as a kid along with other Italian exotics at his dealership, left quite an impression I guess as ultimately I ended up with my own Indy.


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Question regarding the front suspension on Indy’s and Ghibli…

Are the upper and lower ball joints the same as those on the Jaguar MK2, S Type, 420 etc?

I ask as the Jaguars can be fitted with the newer style upper and lower Lemforder sealed ball joints, this is of interest as the original Maserati upper ball joints require greasing via the grease nipple and the lower ball joints have shims for adjustment. I like the idea of having less maintenance and fiddling about in the future as I need to replace the upper ball joints

 

Saw this today. I am sure a lot of you have thought about doing this Fire code and HOA might be a drawback.

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Having a wife might as well ...

 

Maybe the guy is divorced and made his dream bachelor pad Looks like a basement.