Hi Marius, If I can recall correctly, Graeme once mentioned that the main accumulator has a pressure of 64 bars. I am currently using the Citroen Xantia sphere and this seems to have an internal pressure of 64 bar. Best regards, Armaz
The only readible marking I can find on my regulator says '134'. This is cast in the body. There appears to be a cast-in marking on the opposite side as well, but the suface of the casting is so rough that it can't be deciphered.. The pressures have been discussed a few times, and I think every time with different outcomes. My system is now set-up with 68 Bars. Got my stud yesterday, hopefully I'll get a chance to put it all back into the car today Best, Jack.
Hi Armaz, I remember seeing 62 bars stamped on some main accumulator spheres for Citroëns, but 64 could be right also. The Citroën experts I know is not very concerned about the exact pressure and often overfill the spheres a little with nitrogen. This is done because the membrane in the spheres leak a little of the nitrogen over to the LHM over time (years), and the pressure will be reduced. I guess the functions on the LHM circuit will work just fine with a pressure of just 50 bars, even 40. You will probably notice the difference with new spheres, but the car should be drivable. The main concern is the brake accumulators. If the membrane collapse the Khamsin would be without brakes. That's why the brake accumulators should be replaced, not just refilled with nitrogen every 10 years. Because of the danger with loosing the brakes it's two spheres in this circuit, and you only need one to have proper brakes. People loosing their brakes in a Khamsin probably didn't maintain their car and used it with one collapsed sphere before the failure. If the age of the brake shares are unknown, just replace them before using the car again. Best regards Marius
http://www.motorcargallery.com/inventory_all.html Maserati Khamsin VIN# AM120-US1236 Year: 1977 Color: White Pearl with red leather Price: $96,500
That's a proud price for a US-spec car. Extremely low miles, long storage: the service-bill will be an extensive one, I suspect. Is it auto or manual?
Pearl white and it's a factory color??????? I'm looking at an ad for #1260 in a circa 1986 MIE Maserati Market Letter that lists it as a 1979 model. Hmmmm ... did Maserati produce these out of sequence? 1260 is white with red leather.
Hi all: The Motorcar Gallery car is a 5 speed which Ed Waterman informed me about in August when he found and bought it in the san Francisco area right after the Monterey weekend: that one came out of nowhere, I had zero data on it! It still has US bumpers but the very talented bodywork specialist Luc Grondin 20 minutes away from MCG helped me convert my ex car in 2004 and two others in 2006 so conceivably he could do it for a buyer. best regards, Marc
Marc, I figured that you'd be able to get the low-down on this car. I am surprised at the price, particularly with USA bumper and tail light configuration. Carmine
Marc Sorry. I had not read the other thread. You will appreciate that all the wee boys and girls are getting excited about christmas and what presents santa will bring and your book is on top of the list! I know how hard it is editing a 4000 word opinion or letter, so bet of luck. Paul xxx
I am surprised at the price, particularly with USA bumper and tail light configuration. Carmine[/QUOTE] Asking prices are just that.
#1236 in Pearl White Cheers Mark #1228 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have a Bianca white Khamsin and it looks the same. Maybe with better light or photos but I don't see any pearl?
This is the only photo MCG has on their site just now. It looks plain, old white -- not pearl. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ivan, You were right when you said mounting the regulator-assembly would be easier with the main sphere separated. In fact, it has proven impossible to me to do it with the sphere on. The fact that the sphere came mounted to the regulator from the service-guy, and my in-experience with the Citroen hydraulics made me fearful of separating them again: the seals can't be had on every corner in Africa A phonecall with the service-guy taught me that nothing else was needed than a drop of oil on the seal. I did get the assembly mounted properly in the car after replacing the bolt in the back with a stud, a nut was threaded on without complication, however, it is impossible to get the 2 pipes screwed back to the bottom of the regulator. There is just no space, thus the sphere will come off to facilitate me getting my hands in there. Teaches me to follow the advice of those with the experience! What were they thinking when they chose the spot in the car for this unit on RHD Khamsins? Thank you, Jack.
I have been having a problem with coolant loss on the car this year. I had a coolant leak pressure test done and it did not show any issue at all. No other traces of coolant leak, eg suggestion of blown head gasket etc, so I suspect the cap on the expansion tank. The existing cap shows some signs of wear. The handbook says it should be .5 and the existing cap is .7. I know a lot of people prefer to go one or two up on standard. Any views? I think the figures for 50/50 water and coolant are: Pressure vs. Boiling Point .5 bar = 7.25 psi ---- 189*F or 87c .7 bar = 10.15 psi ---- 205*F or 96c .76 bar = 11 psi ------- 210*F or 99c .8 bar = 11.60 psi ---- 212*F or 100c .9 bar = 13.05 psi ---- 218*F or 103c Thanks in advance Paul
oops I think these are correct for sea level which is +1 bar? Pressure vs. Boiling Point (cap rating + 1 bar atmosphere at sea level) 1.5 bar = 7.25 psi ---- 245*F or 118c 1.7 bar = 10.15 psi ---- 250*F or 121c 1.8 bar = 11.60 psi ---- 254*F or 123c 1.9 bar = 13.05 psi ---- 258*F or 126c Paul
Paul, Did you test both cold and at operating temp? Where escaping coolant dries up, you normally find a white residue, which is easy to spot in a clean engine-bay. I am not an advocate of higher pressure caps: it puts more strain on all seals, gaskets and hoses, and you may be creating more problems than you're solving. If your current cap shows signs of wear, replace it with another of the same value.
Hi Paul, Start with the pressure cap, is the easiest. Be very careful when applying a higher pressure than specified by Maserati. See the K user manual p 174: no more than 0,5 Atm!!! Unfortunately I have bad experiences applying higher pressure caps: the water pump seal is the 1st to start leaking and after a while #5 cylinder head gasket part will start leaking and pushing cooling liquid out of the system through the overflow hose. Fix a little bottle to it and see if any liquid comes in there. Success, Bart
Hi Bart and Paul Water pumps There are two variations on the same theme with water pump seals 1 The ceramic seal face runs straight on the brass impeller 2 The ceramic seal face runs on a ceramic face embeded in the impeller. The second version is much more reliable. Personally I would now look seriously at electric water pumps like the DAVIS Craig units if originality isnt a concern.You get programable temperature, 5 to 8 hp extra and a system that will run the fans and pump after turning off the engine and a tell-tail if the system has a fault. I am putting one of these in a car at present. Remove the impeller and thermostat and the cable drive and back up pin. Head gaskets Maserati Khamsin engines have the classic style which will letgo through the steel ring rusting exasibated by dissimilar metals. Time frame is dependant on how well the cooling system is maintained, I have seen a regularly used car last 25 years. it is interesting that in general avaition Lycoming etc 12 years is all a manufacture allows before an engine strip is required to replace all seals and inspect for cracks an corrosion, and these things are air cooled. Porous castings, this isnt uncommon on any italian casting. There is a cure for this and that id a LOCTITE infusion process which is invisible abd works really well on ally and especially Magnesium castings Graeme
I believe that the correct conversion from Bars to PSI is 1.0 bar = 14.5 PSI. Therefore: BAR = PSI 1.5 = 21.8 1.7 = 24.7 1.8 = 26.1 1.9 = 27.6 So what is happening here? Do you Euro guys count use a different zero point than we Americans?
Hi Paul and Graeme, Graeme: thanks for the interesting info, please keep us posted? Although I drive my cars fast and ask power I am never stressing the old animals to the limits so I do not really care about an extra HP, plenty of power available if properly tuned! These gentlemen's Gran Turissimo's were not intended for the track anyhow but to be driven by the old aristocratic clientele of Maserati Famous old words by Bertocchi: "Maserati is for gentlemen, l'altra marqua is for football players", I think he was referring to the car make with the prancing horse on it... I am not with the originality police and will do my "allowed modifications" certainly if they increase safety and reliability. Paul: probably a bit too technical for most but nevertheless: the cap should limit pressure at 7PSI according to factory specs. BTW: an old physics law says that if you open your system the pressure will equal out with the surroundings so, sea level does not matter. To cope with pressure differences caused by height or atmospheric I added an overflow tank with zero pressure cap behind the top tank so the engine can push out or suck back in to demand. Works like a charm and never have to replenish liquid anymore, even on a 3.500km vacation tour! For Ghibli's this was a standard factory option and listed in the parts book, so the problem was known at Maserati. Hope you can do your benefit with this info, Ciao, Bart Image Unavailable, Please Login
